SAS Fullwidth Steering.

[sn0border88]

Ok, to those of you who went fullwidth SAS and retained stock steering, how did it work? OR does it work?

Im trying to not ahve to go crossover, but if I did I'd just get the pass side machined for an arm for the drag link and run the tierod from the stock location.

 

[dkkne]

the explorer pitman arm worked fine for me. The drag link had to be shortened which was no big deal. Use some DOM or schedule 40 piping to slip over the drag link, cut each end at a 45 degree angle and cut however many inches you need out of the drag link + 1/8" and slide each end into the pipe. Then grind about 3-4 slots in the new pipe and weld the slots and ends and you have a darn near unbendable piece.

all in all took me about 15 minutes to make

 

[north/west,ex]

I shortened a 77hp d44 ,then did the same cut on the passenger side tie rod by cutting and rethreading to the adjusting sleeve.For the draglink I have used the stock ex fliped so that the bent end is down thereby giving better clearance under my leaf springs.The dragling is also shortened acourdingly,(about 4").A 4" drop pitman took care of my bump steer as I have about 6" total lift soa

 

[Stic-o]

I just bought DOM and made some, using stock exploer pitman, but other then that I can't help you much sence I'm coils

 

[Burns]

i used both stock arms. i have a extended pitman arm that came with my 5.5inch kit. the lower bar was from the 78 f150 and i used one of the explorer arms. it runs fine for me. i want to keep the same set up and just put the lower bar on the top of the knuckles.

 

[Stic-o]

i used both stock arms. i have a extended pitman arm that came with my 5.5inch kit. the lower bar was from the 78 f150 and i used one of the explorer arms. it runs fine for me. i want to keep the same set up and just put the lower bar on the top of the knuckles.

Just use Chevy TRE's and run it all on top like mine

 

[sn0border88]

How much you think that cost you stico

 

[95exploderboy]

How much you think that cost you stico

Yes please let us in, I have been admiring your setup as I hope to copy it when I do my SAS. Now if I could only get my hands on a reamer fot the Chevy TREs.

 

[IZwack]

Now if I could only get my hands on a reamer fot the Chevy TREs.

Run 3/4 or 1-ton knuckles (or hi-steer arms) and you wont' have to ream anything out except for maybe at the pitman arm -- but you can run your stock TRE there.

 

[95exploderboy]

Run 3/4 or 1-ton knuckles (or hi-steer arms) and you wont' have to ream anything out except for maybe at the pitman arm -- but you can run your stock TRE there.

3/4 or 1 ton Ford knuckles? Can they be run above the steering arm without any modification also?

Sounds good, I may have to do that anyway so I can match up with my 8 lug rear.

Thanks

 

[IZwack]

3/4 or 1 ton Ford knuckles? Can they be run above the steering arm without any modification also?

Sounds good, I may have to do that anyway so I can match up with my 8 lug rear.

Thanks

Actually crap, forgot you're using Ford.

I see that the larger fords used the ES2127 and ES2126 TRE. I have no idea what ream those have. The ream data I used to build my steering were from PMP's website: http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_comparison.htm

 

[95exploderboy]

Actually crap, forgot you're using Ford.

I see that the larger fords used the ES2127 and ES2126 TRE. I have no idea what ream those have. The ream data I used to build my steering were from PMP's website: http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_comparison.htm

I'll use whatever I have to to do the 8 lug... May just have to bite the bullet unless we have a reamer at the shop I used to work at. I'll be doin some more research.

 

[IZwack]

II'll be doin some more research.

Thats really what it comes down to as to how the build comes together in the end Research research and more research.

 

[glfredrick]

My kiddo found some tapered inserts for the knuckles that are designed to add the taper when you flip the TREs. He recommends reaming and going bigger though.

He has all the stuff to ream, inserts, TREs, or otherwise at his shop.

Give Jeremy a call at Moab Off-Road, Louisville, 502-962-8141.

(Yes, CoryL's old shop.)

FWIW, Jeep J20 8-lug 44s run the TRE in the upper position instead of below like the Fords.

 

[95exploderboy]

My kiddo found some tapered inserts for the knuckles that are designed to add the taper when you flip the TREs. He recommends reaming and going bigger though.

He has all the stuff to ream, inserts, TREs, or otherwise at his shop.

Give Jeremy a call at Moab Off-Road, Louisville, 502-962-8141.

(Yes, CoryL's old shop.)

FWIW, Jeep J20 8-lug 44s run the TRE in the upper position instead of below like the Fords.

Thanks for the help, I'll look into the jeep knuckles and shop.

 

[Stic-o]

How much you think that cost you stico

I think about $80 bucks for all the TRE's. The DOM was the $$ part. I had to buy a 20ft piece which was about $160 or something. Then the inserts and jam nuts for TRE's to DOM was another $50 bucks I think. So Thats like almost $300 bucks.. But I have a bunch of DOM left over so... Future projects I guess

 

[dkkne]

I have my dana 44 high pinion steering swapped over to the top. Fortunately, my friends already had the proper reamer and it only took maybe 15 seconds a hole to ream. I didn't have to buy or modify anything else to make this work.

 

[Burns]

i just want to swap over to the top for now. i dont have to have flat top knuckles for now. i want to ream out the holes on the stock knuckles and make a shem so that was it can be swaped to the top.