Smell Fuel - Help Dropping Gas Tank

[tester00003]

Hey guys-

I have had a strong gas smell coming from the gas tank filler hose in the back of the truck -the smell is so strong I can smell it when the truck is parked across the street and I'm on the opposite side!

I've been lurking on the board for some time now trying to figure out what the problem is. I figure it's the fuel sender / fuel line corrosion. I looked into getting a used fuel pump (trying to keep this as low cost as possible) for around $40-50 but I can get an entire gas tank w/ pump from a local junk yard for $150. Not sure which option to take knowing that the metal piece on the gas tank can also be corroded (I dont have the tank removed yet). My fuel pump and fuel pump relay currently work.

Can I buy the fuel sender seperate from the pump or do they both come together?

2nd Issue - I've dropped the fuel tank skid plate but the bolt that holds the fuel tank strap around the gas tank to the truck is rusted to hell. I can barley turn the bolt with all of my strength. I just want to cut the thing off but because of the STRONG fumes I'm a little scared of igniting :fire: And I also heard that Ford has stopped making the fuel tank straps and no local parts stores have 'em.....so I'm not sure if I should cut it.

One last thing...can someone point me in the right direction so I can drain the tank using the current working fuel pump (just in case I have to dremel the strap off). I know you have to hook up 12 volts to some lines but I dont know exactly which ones or where they're located. I rather not siphon it. Im working in the driveway.

Please give me some suggestions-----and remember I want to keep it low cost TIA

 

[410Fortune]

Are you SURE the fuel smell is coming from the back of the truck? Do you see leaking fuel?

You see your truck as part of the emissions equipment has a return line, meaning fuel that doesnt get used gets put back into the tank.

It also has a vapor return line, so fumes are purged from the gas tank/ charcoal canister into the upper intake manifold to be burned. There is a valve up at the intake manifold (throttle body) that the computer opens and closes to purge the tank, Canister purge valve.

If the canister purge valve is closed (common for them to go bad) then the fumes will build up in the tank. Also if the charcoal canister of vapor return line are kinked and/or blocked this can occur.

So before you drop the tank you might want to look into this.

As for the rusted bolts, dont cut the straps, get those bolts out, long lever and 12 point socket?

 

[DeRocha]

1st off as fortune as stated don't cut off any stap.. The bolt in the forward strap was rusted to crap and I couldn't remove it because it would twist the strap... I put a box fan on the ground to help blow away any fumes and then cut off the bolt using my angle grinder.

You can buy a sending unit and fuel pump seperately, but I would recommend replacing them as a unit... otherwise a few months down the road the pump will die on you and you'll kick yourself for not having replaced it...

To drain the tank I bought a manual pump a the parts store. I removed the fill hose at the tank and then drained away.

 

[MazdaGreg]

I've had major fumes from my Navajo in the past, and I would have SWORN that it was a fuel leak. It just smelled like it was coming from everywhere. It was very strong.

My issue was that it was the Purge Solenoid that had died, and therefor would never open and purge the canister. I suppose my canister was full of gas, because it stunk.

Replaced that solenoid, which was 20 bucks or so at Autozone, and it works great.

Make sure that your leak is back there before you start tearing it down. Check the lines along the frame rail. There isn't a whole lot to go wrong at the tank. Nothing really moves back there. Did you maybe hit something?

 

[GJarrett]

One last thing...can someone point me in the right direction so I can drain the tank using the current working fuel pump (just in case I have to dremel the strap off). I know you have to hook up 12 volts to some lines but I dont know exactly which ones or where they're located. I rather not siphon it. Im working in the driveway.

If you are wanting to drain the tank because you are afraid of igniting gasoline while using a grinder, do NOT do it. Gasoline burns. Gasoline fumes explode. Fill the tank, don't empty it - unless you'd rather deal with an explosion than a fire.

If you can use a boxfan as suggested to keep fumes away and can keep the ignition problem safe, then draining the tank in order to lighten its weight while removing it might be okay.

 

[Jason94sport]

Had the same problem. Replaced the canister purge valve & charcoal canister & it seems to be fixed.

 

[DeRocha]

BTW I always bring out my home ABC Fire Extinguisher and keep it at arms length whenever working on the fuel system.

 

[410Fortune]

YUp you should have seen how cautious I was recently when I had to cut metal out of a metal tank......I took every pre-caution I could.

I still dont think you have a leak or the tank needs to come down, unless you visibly see a gas leak, it is most likely the canister purge system

 

[tester00003]

Thanks for all the replies everyone....I'm gonna answer all of your questions:

Yes I am 100% sure the smell is coming from the rear of the truck however I do not see any leaking fuel on the ground. I do park in a spot where there are lots of stains on the pavement so I could be wrong (Definetly no fuel smell under the hood).

I'm pretty sure I also didnt hit anything that could have punctured the tank/lines.

So here is what I did....Instead of dropping the tank and changing the pump/sender unit I paid $35 for the purge valve solenoid at NAPA and installed it. The car started and ran fine but after a minute of idleing I noticed a huge puddle of gas forming underneath the gas tank on the pavement! I'm pretty sure it was coming from the top of the tank. The part #(E4ZF-9C915-AA) Napa part #(CRB228205) is definetly the right one.

I dont think this is just in my head but I could have swore the car didnt hesistate when I first started(cranked) it as it normally does and it might have even been idleing smoother than usual.

The only thing I could think of is that I reversed the way in which the T on the valve should have been hooked up to the lines. So, I shut the car off and unhooked the solenoid BUT I ran into trouble.....one of the lines wasn't coming off the T so I ended breaking the plastic connecter piece accidentaly (im a dumb *ss). Now I have a useless $35 solenoid, Do I buy another one and hook it up the reverse way?

 

[410Fortune]

there is no reverse way, open or closed only

The canister purge does not purge raw fuel, only fumes/vapors

the pressure regulator returns the fuel to the tank.

You have something wrong with the return system and or feed lines, if you have a raw fuel leak back by the tank, it is time to remove the tank.

Yo have to be careful with those purge valves, cannot tell you how many new ones I have seen broken.

 

[thewishkah]

After reading this thread im starting to think my purge solenoid is shot or maybe the charcoal canister itself because I have a strong gas/ethanol smell coming from under the hood When I am below a 1/4 of a tank. Why would it only happen when its below a 1/4 and will replacing help at all with gas mileage? I know it probably wont but if it does it will push me more to do it now rather then wait.

What happens if the engine isnt returning the gas to the tank? would it throw the CEL light? im just trying to check everything I can to help gas mileage right now so any help would be apreciated. (sorry for the threadjack )

 

[410Fortune]

Okay first off the canister purge DOES NOT RETURN FUEL TO THE GAS TANK.
It purges the fumes from the tank/charcoal canister into the intake manifold so they can be burned.

The computer opens the canister purge solenoid at various times while driving, at WOT and sometimes at idle I believe.

if you smell gas, like when you get off the highway and come to a stop, it is very likely your canister purge is toasted and either stuck open or closed.
they are $30+ and an easy fix, as long as you are careful not to break the plastic.

I will explain the retun style fuel system briefly so you guys understand how it works. The fuel pump pressurizes the fuel line/filter/and fuel rail (above injectors) with like 60-80psi. The fuel pressure regulator does exactly that, it keeps the fuel rail pressure constant, approx 40# psi on our trucks. It does this by using manifold vacuum to adjust for various throttle/feul demand situations. Any fuel that is in excess of the 40# is retunred to the gas tank, not through the canister purge system but by the fuel return line.

Your gas tank has 3 hoses that go from tank to engine bay (most explorer's not sure what years were returnless style system).
1. High pressure feed line
2. lower pressure return line
3. vent line

if you smell gas, you can test and/or replace the canister purge valve. On many Gen II trucks there are more that one charcoal canisters and there are also 2 vlaves, one under the battery and one near the gas tank (above spare tire)

Hope that helps clear it up a bit.

Now if you are dumping raw fuel onto the ground, this is another issue entirely. cut/broken line/hose, bad fitting, etc.


2

 

[rocco123]

I just pulled my tank. BIG fuel smell from the back. Found the firring leading from the tank(pressure line) had 2 pin holes. No visible leak found when tank was installed. Verified holes when I puled the tank & used shop air on that line. It was the larger of the 2 lines W/fittings. Today I found that a NAPA kit exists that I could have brazed on new fittings.
My fix was replacing the whole pump assy & reinstalling the tank. Operational checks were good and no leaks were noted. The FQI shows a little less than full w/full tank though. DAMN !! Anyone know if there is a way to re-calibrate indication?

 

[Brock94]

Anyone know if there is a way to re-calibrate indication?

I have the same problem after replacing my fuel sender/pump. The only way to fix it that I know of is to pull the tank and bend the wire holding the float so that it will move all the way up and down. Personally, I don't think it's worth my time to do that for such a minor inconvenience on an old truck, but in case anyone else doing this reads this thread-- be sure to set up the float the right way the first time.

 

[410Fortune]

You can also wire in a radio shack resistor(s) until you get the correct reading at the gage, but I have always used the adjsut the flaot method mentioned above.
My truck has had a faulty reading ont he gas gage for like 5 years now. The newest sending unit I installed was from Carquest, and it is more accurate then the el cheapo one I had in there last time.

Two pinholes hua? Sounds like a rodent or cat might have been biting that line?

 

[tester00003]

Round #3

I finally got the bolt of the damn fuel tank strap and was able to drop the tank.

Not to my suprise the lines from the sender unit just crumbled away -lots of rust. I guess I found my leak!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/tester00003/Ford Explorer Gas Tank/IMG_0348.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/tester00003/Ford Explorer Gas Tank/IMG_0349.jpg

This left me with using the plastic disconnect tool to remove the broken pieces of the sender unit from the fuel lines........this is where my next problem starts.

One of the lines has pieces of sender unit line rusted/broken in there and it looks like there is no way to remove it from that line (at least without damaging it like I did with the other one).

The other line's (which I got the sender unit piece out of) little metal "clips" which line the interior and hold the sender unit line are totaly broken and bent. I ended up removing them from interior of the line as there was no fixing them. Does this mean I need to replace my fuel lines now because the clips are broken???? How else will I attach the new sender unit?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/tester00003/Ford Explorer Gas Tank/IMG_0350.jpg

Take a look at the ring that is built into the gas tank, it looks like it is still in tact to me...you guys think its reusable? I read some posts saying that fuel resistant epoxy/glue will help once it is cleared of rust. I'm willing to try.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/tester00003/Ford Explorer Gas Tank/IMG_0354.jpg

So right now it looks like I need to buy a sender unit and fuel pump (even though the current one still works but I should replace it). But I'm still not sure if I should buy replacement fuel lines and or gas tank?

Anybody have a cheap source for these parts...oh and I need a new Canister Purge Valve -I broke the last one.

Thanks again everyone

 

[DeRocha]

No need to replace the line.. The metal fuel line clips can be purchases at auto parts stores (Napa has them in my area). Check out the Fuel Filter Removal thread for lots of info and pics on how to use the fuel line disconnnect tool. I would get a tool and use some needle nose pliers to yank the remaining sending unit piece out.

Be carefull with the lock ring mounting flange on the tank.. Obviously it is very fragile at this point and a replacement tank is $300+ if you can find one..

If It were my tank I would first remove any remaining gas then clean and flush the tank. I would then carefully remove any loose rust on the flange. I would get a new sending unit & pump assembly, and lock ring. As long as the mounting flange has enough tabs left to secure the ring you should be good to go... If you don't have any tabs your only alternatives would be 1) a replacment tank for $$$, or 2) Use fuel resistant epoxy to seal the sending unit if place $5...

 

[410Fortune]

Ouch, rust = SUCKS.