Thanks Donalds, Turdle. Can't seem to post reply in my "injector 1, 2, 3" thread. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Thanks Donalds, Turdle. Can't seem to post reply in my "injector 1, 2, 3" thread.

84FLH

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February 14, 2016
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mercury Mountaineer
Donalds;
Thanks. Great picture. Shows what I needed to see.

Turdle;
Thanks. I reseated PCU connector few nights ago. Pins and connector housing were clean with no grit, dust, grime, dirt inside. Same for female side of connector. Reseated connector 4x then started engine. #3 miss was gone. Rev'd engine to 3k rpm smooth with no misfire. Didn't drive vehicle, though. Started vehicle 5am following day. Misfire was back.

CEL has been on solid with P0303 and P0171 for past week. CEL often flashes going up hills to/from work. I pull over, shut off motor, then restart motor. That clears the flashing CEL.

Stopped at parts store on ride home from work today. When I started vehicle after leaving store the miss was gone. Drove 3 miles to a local mechanic to ask a few questions. When I started engine at his shop the miss was still gone. Drove 2 miles home and parked it. Miss was gone when I parked.

I had been losing signal just before #3 injector (noid light would go off and stay off). When signal lost, misfire happens. When signal present there's no misfire. So I'm thinking wiring or PCU trouble.

Am 3/4's way through full tank with Lucas injector cleaner. Also added 5 oz Seafoam to oil to quiet intermittent noisy lifter. That noisy lifter might be timing chain noise, though at bottom, front, passenger side of motor.
 



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Are you sure your spark plug wires are good
Id look inside the ecm ...computer.. For bad leaking capacitors
Its worth a look only takes a few mins

My bet is just a bad wire and or connector
Time to break out a test light and find that wire
 






You might want to report your inability to post in that topic, along with browser details (a moment ago I was able to post in that topic and linked to this topic) .

 






You might want to report your inability to post in that topic, along with browser details (a moment ago I was able to post in that topic and linked to this topic) .

Couldn't post there from my cell. Hence, this new thread. Can you expound "browser details"? Thank you.
 






Are you sure your spark plug wires are good
Id look inside the ecm ...computer.. For bad leaking capacitors
Its worth a look only takes a few mins

My bet is just a bad wire and or connector
Time to break out a test light and find that wire
New Ford wires and coil two weeks ago. Appreciate the tip on capacitors. Found the thread on how to check. Great information.

Have narrowed the problem down to probable wiring trouble. With engine running and misfiring, I gently manipulated the #3 injector connector. Misfire didn't stop. Then manipulated the two wires that terminate into the connector. Misfire didn't stop.

Then I grasped the (wrapped up) wire bundle (for #3 injector) where it exits the lower intake. I manipulated that wire bundle in a circle. Misfire didn't stop. Then I pushed the bundle down towards bottom of lower intake. Misfire stopped.

Drove for about 3 miles at 45 mph before misfire came back. Stopped and manipulated bundled again. Misfire stopped. Drove 8 more miles to home. No misfire at all.

Supposed to be 50 degrees here next week. Will pull plenum and look at wiring using test light (now where did I pack it after I sold my house 15 years ago?). If necessary will pull lower intake. Difficult to do in apartment complex parking lot. But have all tools necessary.

Thanks for all the advice and help. Very good info. Great site, as usual.
 






Couldn't post there from my cell. Hence, this new thread. Can you expound "browser details"? Thank you.
Report the browser/version you were using, trying to single out what prevented your being able to post when I was able. There have been cases in the past were I wasn't able to post in a select few topics but at the moment I can't even recall if it was this forum or some other website forum.
 






Not sure what kind of splices they use in the engine harness, but in the body harness, they corrode like hell.

Cut out, solder (a powerful gun works well) and re-wrap. Honestly, you’re gonna have to remove a whole bunch to get to them. May as well replace all the splices you can get to, then wrap it all up. It’ll save you time down the line.
 






Not sure what kind of splices they use in the engine harness, but in the body harness, they corrode like hell.

Cut out, solder (a powerful gun works well) and re-wrap. Honestly, you’re gonna have to remove a whole bunch to get to them. May as well replace all the splices you can get to, then wrap it all up. It’ll save you time down the line.
Corrosion in splices. Great info! Thank you.

Donalds' harness picture takes on a whole new meaning, now.

Opening the entire harness will be more work than I imagined, but it's really the best way. If only the weather cooperates. And time. Don't want to leave the intakes off overnight in the parking lot, even with intake ports blocked by rags.
 






Report the browser/version you were using, trying to single out what prevented your being able to post when I was able. There have been cases in the past were I wasn't able to post in a select few topics but at the moment I can't even recall if it was this forum or some other website forum.
How do I start a new post?! I tried last week and didn't find an option without sending to a specific member. I just pick a name that worked, but suspect it may easily have gone to someone who doesn't enter site very often.
How do I adjust and or bleed 95 clutch? Notice when my check engine lite comes on, temp gauge drops-gang connectors near firewall? Thanks, neat site. Go "Exploders"!👍👍🏿
 






^ In the upper right hand area of the subforum I linked previously (and first link below) is a button labeled "Post Thread".


When that "Post Thread" button is clicked, it takes you to this page which you could also go to directly using this link:


However these links are specific to reporting the problem posting in an existing topic, not creating a new topic. To create a new topic specific to your '95 Explorer, the "Post Thread" button is found in this subforum:


When your check engine light comes on, use a code scanner to get the OBD2 trouble code. Could just be that your temp sensor itself, or wiring/connector to it has failed. Yes you should also check the two bulk connectors near the firewall.

Lastly I assume new members can start new topics before they have X # of posts under their belt. In some other forums, you have to post a few times before it will let you make a new topic, the idea being that it cuts down on spam. I don't recall if there's any limitation like that on Explorer Forum.
 






According to my 2000 wiring diagrams injectors number 3, 5 & 6 are connected to splice S167 and injectors number 1, 2 & 4 are connected to splice S124. S124 gets power from S167. S167 gets power from C115. The red wire to each injector should have power whenever the PCM Power Relay is energized (Start or Run). The PCM energizes each injector by "grounding" the wire connected to it. I see no splice common to only injectors 1, 2 & 3.

Cylinder%20key%204_0%20SOHC.jpg
 






According to my 2000 wiring diagrams injectors number 3, 5 & 6 are connected to splice S167 and injectors number 1, 2 & 4 are connected to splice S124. S124 gets power from S167. S167 gets power from C115. The red wire to each injector should have power whenever the PCM Power Relay is energized (Start or Run). The PCM energizes each injector by "grounding" the wire connected to it. I see no splice common to only injectors 1, 2 & 3.

View attachment 425842
AWESOME INFO! THANK YOU! VERY MUCH!

Any idea where S124 and S167 live in the wire loom?

Where can I find the wiring diagram?

THANK YOU AGAIN....

Edit: Found wiring diagram here, courtesy Donalds. He broke out S124 and S167. So thanks to you, also, Donalds.
 






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