Transfer case shaft "clock" position

[hippieboy]

Need the "clock" position for the motor shaft on my transfer case. The motor stopped working and its in 4 High. Need it in 4 auto. Was told that all the way counterclockwise was it, but that is 4Low. Please help, I cannot afford a new motor for a week or 2. Thanks.

 

[IZwack]

For your 98 Explorer: 4HI is the correct position for that shaft. There is no "Auto" mode in terms of the shift motor because all the transfer case does is control HI and LO range. 4-wheel drive engagement is controlled by the electromagnetic ring inside the transfer case. So if its in 4HI, then it's in the correct position for both 4HI and Auto.

 

[hippieboy]

Thanks. It just feels like it is in all time 4 wheel drive. I can feel the front wheels pulling. Didn't feel that way before the motor went out. Of course, the O/D OFF light is blinking now, too. I hate electronics!!!

 

[KPT]

As IZ said the shift motor has absolutely nothing to do with 4WD. Leave the harness to the transfer case unplugged, if it still feels like the front axle is powered you have a mechanical problem in the transfer case.

 

[gmanpaint]

I thought the 98+ (Live axle) stayed in 4wd all the time? Control trac applies more power when needed.

Thus the reason for wanting the brown wire mod, 4406 swap, CAD swap, etc...



:scratch:

 

[IZwack]

I thought the 98+ (Live axle) stayed in 4wd all the time? Control trac applies more power when needed.

I think that whole "4% 4wd by default" (I think its 4%) is only because of the drag between the clutch plates and the "ball and ramp" mechanical system. In other words, the electronics isn't doing anything by default to cause the front driveshaft to recieve any power from the transmission (besides the fact that the road is causing both to spin at the same general RPM). The front driveshaft is spinning because there is a minor force that is exerting on the clutch plate stack. This minor force is also required to keep the engagement balls in correct position in the "ball and ramp" system.

And FWIW - it isnt the electromagnet that actually forces 4wd, it merely provisions for 4wd. The force to engage 4wd actually comes from the different driveshaft RPMs. When one driveshaft is spinning faster than the other, the balls rotate out of their notches and up the "ramp" which drives the two "ball and ramp" plates apart from each other - thereby squeezing on the clutch plates.

So that whole 4% thing isn't determined by the electronics - and I think that's a figure that Ford measured, an empirical measurement of the resulting drag and force needed to keep the "ball and ramp" system in default position and the amount of drag that exists between the clutch plates.

 

[gmanpaint]

So, in other words...There is a normal "Drag" from the set up, but no power to the front until the switch is thrown and 4wd is active.

The Gem works the control trac correct? So if the Gem is on the fritz, that might be his problem, not to say the 4405 is fine, just something else to think about.

 

[KPT]

So, in other words...There is a normal "Drag" from the set up, but no power to the front until the switch is thrown and 4wd is active.

I can't remember if I've tried it or not, been awhile since the truck has been on a lift. I'm fairly sure if all four tires are off the ground the front drive shaft will spin, but you can grab it with your hands and it stop it.

The Gem works the control trac correct? So if the Gem is on the fritz, that might be his problem, not to say the 4405 is fine, just something else to think about.

Yes the GEM supplies power which will engage the electromagnet. If the harness to the transfer case is unplugged the GEM is out of the equation.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

With the shift motor connector unplugged there won't be any 4wd(other than the inherent drag IZwack mentioned). With the TOD relay not supplying power if there is still "pull" from the front driveline then it is possible that there is a clutch problem. If you look at the case with the motor removed the "H" position is actually Auto until the TOD relay applies the clutch at 100% duty cycle. Without power to the clutch it's only 2wd. So KPT is correct as well.

 

[hippieboy]

Thanks. It is acting right now, except the O/D light. I know that is a common issue, though. Works perfect for a while the flashes, then works, etc. Oh, I wish my 91 wouldn't have gotten totalled....

 

[hippieboy]

By the way, what is the brown wire swap that was mentioned. I am new to this truck and 4 wheel drive. I have always worked on my own cars or other Explorer, but, I got this one so cheap I could not pass it up. I am just not familiar with it. Thanks

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Brown wire mod is basically just disconnecting the t-case clutch by installing a switch. Switch off= 2wd, switch on= normal. See here http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149388

 

[mr_valingo]

I wouldn't suggest trying kpt's test. On the 95 if you're in "2wd" the front passenger axle shaft is disconnected from the diff. But the 98 is always connected so if you grab the spinning driveshaft your gonna be trying to stop the tires too.

 

[drdoom]

Thanks. It is acting right now, except the O/D light. I know that is a common issue, though. Works perfect for a while the flashes, then works, etc. Oh, I wish my 91 wouldn't have gotten totalled....

Better get the transmission codes read ASAP. Seriously, don't drive with O/D OFF light flashing. I made that mistake myself, it did not end well. Get it checked.

 

[hippieboy]

I want to get the codes checked, but it only does it periodically. I have only had the truck a short time, but know the guy that I bought it from. All was fine til I wanted to play in 4 wheel drive. Did not engage, thats when I found the trafsfer case motor froze up. It stopped with the shaft not quite in the "h" position. Had to drive it like that to get to and from work. Now shift motor off, shaft locked firmly in "h", and trans shifts fine. But, if I drive 45 mph for a while, thats when the blinking starts. It resets itself after I stop, go to work, come out, get on the frwy in less tyhan a mile, all is well. get on the road to head home, 2-3 miles at 45 mph, light blinks. Plus, now that the motor is unplugged, the 4High and 4Low lights blink. Already changed the rearend sensor.

 

[drdoom]

Yeah, when I had the O/D flashing, it went into "limp home" mode, and the shifts were harder, and the engine RPMs were higher at cruising speed (no torque converter clutch lock-up). Then like you say, it would reset, then re-occur. I had to get a mechanic with a SNAP ON scanner to pull the trouble code. The ACTRON scanner I have would not read it (but go figure it reads transmission codes on Hondas).

 

[hippieboy]

What ended up being the problem? I have gone through about 15 threads and seen so many different outcomes. Some are VSS in the rear, some are the sensor in the tranny, some were t-cases....Long story short. My 91 (which ran PERFECTLY) was totaled 2 wks ago. I HAD to get a vehicle. paid 700 for this one. Had to replace fuel pump to make it run. No prob. Now this. I have NO money to speak of and need inexpensive fixes. Don't mind small things, 40-50 bucks, but 1500-$2000 repairs will not happen.

 

[drdoom]

Torque converter problem (CODE P0741 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM STUCK OFF) @ 174K. Had to pull the transmission to fix it.

 

[hippieboy]

I am hoping that is not the issue with mine. 203000 miles and it sat for 4-5 months. Hoped at first it was the t-case motor, or solenoid stuck and needed to be run to unstick. The guy that hit me and totlaed my old one ran off leaving me stuck, and having to pay all outta pocket for this. Been a full week now, 400-500 miles and still doing it....only about 50-75 hwy miles, though. Otherwise, it runs like new. Interior in all but factory shape. No oil leaks. Well worth the 700....I hope