What Is This Noise Coming From Left Rear Wheel? (Started After Hitting Pothole)

[TechGuru]

Took the wheel and rotor off and it still makes the noise! That literally only leaves the wheel bearing? It's only a year and a half old SKF!

 

[J_C]

I've never heard a wheel bearing make such an intermittent clicking, that seems to roughly coincide with the wheel position. Since it does it without the wheel on, we can rule out the rim being warped and wobbling on the rotor (though with alloy rims, would probably crack long before it warped that far in), so I'd wonder if it's the CV axle. Is the grease boot for it in good shape?

 

[TechGuru]

I've never heard a wheel bearing make such an intermittent clicking, that seems to roughly coincide with the wheel position. Since it does it without the wheel on, we can rule out the rim being warped and wobbling on the rotor (though with alloy rims, would probably crack long before it warped that far in), so I'd wonder if it's the CV axle. Is the grease boot for it in good shape?

The axle is a brand new reman from Oreily. Only a week old.

 

[J_C]

I would ignore the age of the parts... a year and a half old, SKF hub shouldn't be anywhere near failure either, unless the axle nut torque was grossly wrong. In either case, if you position your head between the hub and axle, it should be easier to tell which direction the sound is coming from.

If the vehicle can suffer some downtime, another way to do this is proceed to take it further apart, with the hub removed you can see if it feels notchy while rotating... had to come off anyway if that's the problem, though I don't recall if only taking the hub off, leaves enough clearance to get the axle off or if you have to take the knuckle off at the BJ.

 

[TechGuru]

I loosened the axle nut and the noise went away, I re-torqued it to 160 (the highest my torque wrench goes) and the noise came back.

 

[J_C]

Then it does seem like it's the hub/bearing, but that's a fairly unusual sound it is making, and this makes me wonder about something. You re-torqued to 160 but if that is only the max spec for the tool, it is possible the tool doesn't really make that much torque and it is close to or below the lower limit for axle nut torque which based on one source I saw was 157-213 ft-lbs.

Could just be that the hub was defective but it's surprising for SKF, they usually make good hubs so you didn't make a bad choice in using one. It's also surprising to make that sound rather than a more continuous metallic grating noise.

 

[fordysenior]

I borrowed a neighbors torque wrench and found out it didn't go as high the specifications required. It's been several years and I haven't had any issues with it so far -- mentally, it's due for replacement. BUT, remember, O'reillys does rent out torque wrenches for free (which I did for the next wheel hub assembly). Any chance it's ABS related in that assembly??

 

[J_C]

No that definitely has nothing to do with ABS.

 

[TechGuru]

Then it does seem like it's the hub/bearing, but that's a fairly unusual sound it is making, and this makes me wonder about something. You re-torqued to 160 but if that is only the max spec for the tool, it is possible the tool doesn't really make that much torque and it is close to or below the lower limit for axle nut torque which based on one source I saw was 157-213 ft-lbs.

Could just be that the hub was defective but it's surprising for SKF, they usually make good hubs so you didn't make a bad choice in using one. It's also surprising to make that sound rather than a more continuous metallic grating noise.

Ya it almost sounds like one of the long skinny roller bearings in there is binding. I've only driven 3 miles on it like this, wheel is still solid. I could just see how long it will go before it starts getting lose but man is it loud, I don't really notice it inside but people stare...lol

I was there with the mechanic when the SKF bearing was pressed in, it was a tight fit, you could barely turn the hub by hand.

When I do wind up replacing it again I'm thinking of going with Motorcraft this time (which is actually *** made in Korea) as it is within a dollar of the price of the SKF.

With how often these need replacing, I'm really considering the need to just invest in my own press. How many ton do you think I need? HarborFreight has a 6 ton on clearance for $80 right now.

 

[TechGuru]

A thought just occurred to me. I’m wondering if the snap ring is catching something.

 

[J_C]

Now I'm confused, I saw your vehicle reads "4X4" and thought this meant you have hub-integrated (not separately replaceable) bearings, but based on your prior post about replacing just the bearings, I double-checked Rock Auto and they list both hub-integrated bearings, and separate bearings for AWD/4WD.

Next I did a forum search and found the following topic, where you linked a video plus the posts, leaving me even more confused because I thought this all in one type hub assembly, had to have preload from the axle nut or would quickly wear out, and yet what I *think* I'm seeing in the video is the integrated hub on a 2x4, not a spindle/bearing assembly which couldn't be on a 4x4 ??

Wheel Hub/Bearing Question

Is it possible to buy a wheel hub and bearing already pressed or is that just not a thing? I cant seem to find one already pressed anywhere. Its for a 2004 explorer xlt btw

www.explorerforum.com

Thinking about it more, is this due to use of an aluminum knuckle and it's simply too weak for a spindle which is why they starting using a new setup?

Whether you have an integrated hub or separate bearing arrangement, they should not need replaced often if using major brand parts. I wonder if the mechanic somehow damaged the bearing when installing it, but even then, the sound it is (if it is) making is odd.

lol, I give up, ignore my posts and wait for someone who knows this setup better. That includes ignoring my post about "definitely nothing to do with ABS", if you have an external ABS tone ring, if it could rub against something.

 

[TechGuru]

Now I'm confused, I saw your vehicle reads "4X4" and thought this meant you have hub-integrated (not separately replaceable) bearings, but based on your prior post about replacing just the bearings, I double-checked Rock Auto and they list both hub-integrated bearings, and separate bearings for AWD/4WD.

Next I did a forum search and found the following topic, where you linked a video plus the posts, leaving me even more confused because I thought this all in one type hub assembly, had to have preload from the axle nut or would quickly wear out, and yet what I *think* I'm seeing in the video is the integrated hub on a 2x4, not a spindle/bearing assembly which couldn't be on a 4x4 ??

Wheel Hub/Bearing Question

Is it possible to buy a wheel hub and bearing already pressed or is that just not a thing? I cant seem to find one already pressed anywhere. Its for a 2004 explorer xlt btw

www.explorerforum.com

Thinking about it more, is this due to use of an aluminum knuckle and it's simply too weak for a spindle which is why they starting using a new setup?

Whether you have an integrated hub or separate bearing arrangement, they should not need replaced often if using major brand parts. I wonder if the mechanic somehow damaged the bearing when installing it, but even then, the sound it is (if it is) making is odd.

lol, I give up, ignore my posts and wait for someone who knows this setup better. That includes ignoring my post about "definitely nothing to do with ABS", if you have an external ABS tone ring, if it could rub against something.

That's the front, we're talking about the rear...

Edited title to clarify.

 

[fordysenior]

You asked earlier about a 6 ton press -- I have the rears done by shops, so I'm not sure, but I remember a video on YT saying it takes a 10 ton press

 

[TechGuru]

You asked earlier about a 6 ton press -- I have the rears done by shops, so I'm not sure, but I remember a video on YT saying it takes a 10 ton press

Guess I'd have to get the 12 then 12 ton H-Frame Floor Shop Press

I'm really leaning towards a issue with the snap ring. If it were the bearing binding I would think I would really feel the tick deep in the metal of the wheel, but it's mostly just sound like a snap ring being snapped.

 

[drdoom]

You asked earlier about a 6 ton press -- I have the rears done by shops, so I'm not sure, but I remember a video on YT saying it takes a 10 ton press

I had mine done on a 30 ton, when I came back to pick the knuckles up the boss said it was maxed out and made all the men leave the bays until it popped loose with a bang. YMMV

 

[TechGuru]

I had mine done on a 30 ton, when I came back to pick the knuckles up the boss said it was maxed out and made all the men leave the bays until it popped loose with a bang. YMMV

But mine's been done somewhat recently and multiple times. Usually only the first time is that hard.

 

[fordysenior]

I had my last one done at the Ford dealer and he said he couldn't pop it out. We had to get a LKQ knuckle and put a new bearing on it. And he broke the upper ball joint while trying to get the assembly out. The original factory bearing last about 125k miles, the replacement for it was done at a tire store -- and lasted around 22k miles, if my memory serves me right. The third time was done at the Ford dealer with a Motorcraft bearing.

 

[drdoom]

But mine's been done somewhat recently and multiple times. Usually only the first time is that hard.

Agree 100% Tech.