Windows stuck and got power to master switch

[mmoniz325]

2 weeks ago my driver side window would go down but when I attempted to put it back up heard a funny noise from under the dash and the window wouldn't budge. I put it all the way down and to my surprise it came back up. I thought it was a fluke, but now my window is all the way down and it won't come back up AT ALL!!! Still makes a funny noise when I try to come back up. All other windows are working fine, I don't get it but I need to fix this issue immediately. PLEASE HELP!

 

[BigRondo]

2 weeks ago my driver side window would go down but when I attempted to put it back up heard a funny noise from under the dash and the window wouldn't budge. I put it all the way down and to my surprise it came back up. I thought it was a fluke, but now my window is all the way down and it won't come back up AT ALL!!! Still makes a funny noise when I try to come back up. All other windows are working fine, I don't get it but I need to fix this issue immediately. PLEASE HELP!

Check out this thread, It is a great write-up by Dr_Z: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=243401

 

[geohec]

Saw your post from a little over a week ago and thought I'd mention a couple of other options in case you haven't tried to fix the regulator yet.


I had a similar issue that had my passenger side window stuck in the down position.

I first pulled out the switch from a back door to make sure it wasn't the switch that was bad. But that checked out ok. For you, if I remember correctly the connection is different, so you'll have to find someone with a similar year model explorer/mountaineer. Or check the voltages.

For me, I figured out that my problem had to do with a bad ground cable and/or possible corroded battery cable. I cleaned up both at the same time after I figured that I wasn't getting the proper voltage in that door. I'm at work right now so I don't have the link, so just do a search and hopefully you'll find what you need.

Just thought I'd mention these other two items. If it was the regulator then Dr. Z's post is the way to go. I'm book marking that one for when my goes out (probably sooner than later since I have just over 100k).

Good luck. :biggthump

 

[va2explorer]

Don't mean to dig up an old thread, but man I dug all over the forums, and everything on this topic seemed to be about tracing the (+)positive power from the battery to the window switch. Not much about (-)Ground system. I was leaning towards the ground being the issue, as I did have power to the window switch. I just didn't know where I should start, and it looks like a nightmare to get above the central (fuse) junction panel where the driver door wire harness comes thru the door post. Then I figured I would look at the forums one more time, and I found this thread. LIFE SAVER!!!! I yanked on the wire bundle going thru the door, and the black (-)ground wire pulled out of the wire bundle very easy, and it was broken. like someone else said, who would of thought a wire breaking inside a rubber flex connection. I am just going to ground to the door instead of trying to run a wire thru the rubber connector, I already tried it by grounding to the door and all checked out OK using this grounding method. Thanks All.

 

[BigRondo]

Don't mean to dig up an old thread, but man I dug all over the forums, and everything on this topic seemed to be about tracing the (+)positive power from the battery to the window switch. Not much about (-)Ground system. I was leaning towards the ground being the issue, as I did have power to the window switch. I just didn't know where I should start, and it looks like a nightmare to get above the central (fuse) junction panel where the driver door wire harness comes thru the door post. Then I figured I would look at the forums one more time, and I found this thread. LIFE SAVER!!!! I yanked on the wire bundle going thru the door, and the black (-)ground wire pulled out of the wire bundle very easy, and it was broken. like someone else said, who would of thought a wire breaking inside a rubber flex connection. I am just going to ground to the door instead of trying to run a wire thru the rubber connector, I already tried it by grounding to the door and all checked out OK using this grounding method. Thanks All.

I would repair the wire. Its not that difficult:

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available in the above thread. IIRC, I believe I unwrapped the wires enough to gain access. When I have gone searching in there I had an idea of what wire I was looking for. I located the the wire I was looking for and gently tugged on that wire on the door side. The wire was pulled toward me and out of the harness. I then went inside the vehicle and gently tugged on the the wire I was looking for and was able to pull it inside the vehicle. I then spliced a length of wire to the 2 ends, completing the circuit. I then gently pulled the excess into the door.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Be sure to keep us posted.

 

[va2explorer]

Ground is Ground, the door is bolted to the body, and one of the Ground wires from the battery is connected to the radiator support member which is bolted to the body. What is it going to hurt if the wire is not spliced back together? Is it a reverse Ground electrical system? Plz let me know I do not want to burn my EX to the Ground(to the dirt),LOL. no pun intended.

 

[BigRondo]

I'll see about sending the wiring diagram tonight when I get home.

 

[va2explorer]

UPDATE: It has been 8 months now since I fixed my window issue, and all is still good. I had a broken ground wire inside the drivers side flex connector between door and frame. Instead of trying to splice the broken wire back together in the wire bundle, and working in the tight area between the door and frame. I just grounded the switch to the inside door frame.. located extra hole in door frame, added a small section of wire to the ground wire coming from the drivers door switch, and added a 1/8" loop terminal connector to the end of the added wire, and then bolted to door frame. repair took like 15 min once I found the problem.

 

[keebs98]

Windows , sunroof , instrument cluster gauges not working please help

i have a 2002 mountaineer 4.0 awd , a few days ago all at the same time I noticed that my gauges were lit up but they weren't working, I noticed my power windows,sunroof, and Also my turn signals were not working however the hazards do , none of my cluster warnings come up (e brake symbol ect) I've checked both fuse boxes, checked every relay , I'm at a loss at this point any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks !

 

[tiberius]

hey guys my 96 explorer sport will not open or close windows.. but locks work.. have been through many motors 2 lift mechanisms and even had the window track replaced once found a broken green and orange wire behind fuse panel traced it to a gang block under hood and replaced the whole length.. but still have no windows.. just today found broken green wire to mirror switch between door and cab.. i will fix that later but even with my test meter i cant find any bad fuses and already replaced the larger accessory relay under the dash ..cant seem to find any more breaks in the wiring but checked all fuses both under hood and dash..tested for voltage at blue and black wire at the switches and nuthing.. backfeeding voltage to same wire and hear clicking under dash..which wire is hot to switches? where does it start and end up?..if i knew the routing i could check the whole path any other ideas?