windows will not roll down, help please

[orion1998_1]

i can only roll the windows down from the drivers door. each rear and the passenger front will not roll down from their switches. i checked all the fuses inside as well as under the hood. all the fuses i have are good. any idea what might be going on?

 

[Essex4x4]

This is going to sound dumb but we need to eliminate all possibilities; is your driver side window lock on?

 

[orion1998_1]

i tried to move it both ways i dont see any difference, can i get one at autozone or advanced?

 

[Essex4x4]

Calm down bro, before you go all crazy it may not be the switch. Wait untill morning to see if anyone else checks this thread. It won't do you any good to replace something that isn't broke. Lets see if we can get some of the other guys here to read your thread, okay.

 

[budwich]

of course, there are lots of posts on this... since your driver side control works for ALL windows, the most likely cause is a "fubarred" lockout switch... again posts indicate is can be cleaned / fixed.... check it with a meter.

 

[orion1998_1]

any other ideas? the switch appears to be good. with a dmm i used cont test, between bottom 2 posts, flip switch and get cont.

 

[lunchboxx]

Have someone help you and check for 12VDC at the harness for the motor when you hit the switch..if you get 12V there then your motor is dead..if not ( more likely since you already said that they work from their own switch) then you need to make friends with someone on the forum with a wiring diagram for your year..trace it and I think (my mind is just about shot LOL) that there is a relay between the switch and the motor..

Is there a way to short across the lock out switch to force it into always being in the ON position? You might want to check that too>...?

 

[budwich]

Its not a motor issue as the poster indicated that the windows all work just not from their own switch.... anyways... further to my initial post ... the switch was the "first" check. the next check then is check for voltage on R/LB leaving the switch (when it is closed)... this voltage is distributed to the other controls.... if it "leaves" and does not get to a "distant" switch then the wire is broke and it is usually in the door post (driver's) where you will next find your "culprit".

 

[burtonbrd138]

my 2000 Xls does the same thing, i have to push the window lock switch back and forth a couple of times to get the windows to work from their own switches.

 

[orion1998_1]

ok, this is killing me now, i checked the voltage i got 14v at light blue/ black and at the red/ light blue i got 0. is there a good way to check the relay?

 

[budwich]

OK... ok ... ok... so you measured voltage on the LB/BK at the master control switches and it had ~14V... good and then you measured 0 on the R/LB (leaving the master control)... BAD.... of course, you tried pushing the "lockout switch" back and forth to see if it changed... right? If you can see continuity thru the switch with your meter (again you said so), then you need to check the master control wiring between the LB/BK (input of voltage) and the "lockout switch".... there is a break somewhere there OR possible at the connection of the R/LB wire to the assembly. You can further test this by "jumpering" around from the LB/BK coming in to the R/LB... everything should then work fine.

 

[orion1998_1]

first, thank you so much for the help budwich, my bad i get 14v when i flip the lockout switch

 

[budwich]

ook ook.... now I am confused... please restate what you have found as I am not sure how your last statement comes into play... thanks. If you are now getting on the R/LB (after switch the "lock out" switch... then that's good as it would appear power is getting somewhere. I suspect not. There is one major splice to get that power to your windows.... sooooo you need to look at one door and measure the R/LB at any of the switches (up/down) with the "lockout" switch set right (ie. to allow power thru).

The splice in / around the rear left passener door post / sill area (lots of posts ... some good on what people have found).... most likely your problem also. good luck

 

[orion1998_1]

ok little recap, and new info added.

all the windows work fine from the master/drivers door. the other 3 windows will not work from each door. i checked the lock out switch with a meter it is ok. at the master switch i get 14v at light blue/black and red/light blue. NEW INFO at the pass front switch i get 0 voltage at red/ light blue. i used a jumper to bring in 12v to the red/light blue and the window works fine from the pass switch.


when leaving the lockout switch where does power go? the relay under the dash? what about the drivers side rear door? can you link a post? thanks

 

[budwich]

OK... thanks for the clarification. The R/LB doesn't go thru a relay. It goes thru the driver's door post and then to the "aforementioned" splice area. Both are common breakages.... "seek and yea shall find" as it will be pretty obvious that the R/LB has a "problem" in one of those areas. There are posts with some pictures somewhere as I have seen them go by.... but again, trace your wire.

 

[orion1998_1]

can you be a little more clear on where the splice area is? i tried looking for posts, are you talking about the driver door jamb where the big connector is?

 

[budwich]

noooo... I think you misunderstand. There are two areas of trouble: the first is the "connector" / "can" at the driver's door post / hinge.... the wires break because of the amount of time the door is opened and closed in your trucks life span. The second is a "splice area" (my "designation"... not "official", there are some splices there or close to there) at the rear passenger door sill / post area.... its usually corrodes. Both of these area are "known" trouble spots for your problem. I haven't been able to locate the "picture post" but again, you should be able to look at both of these areas and quickly follow the appropriate wire to your problem.

 

[orion1998_1]

ok getting REALLY close, i found a broke wire in the boot but might have another related problem, i'll fix it and double check and report back

 

[orion1998_1]

thanks again for the help, i found a brokee wire and repair it, all is well. but i found a red/black broke it looks the same as one on the door lock switch, but the all seem to work ok

 

[budwich]

was the R/BK on the "door side" of things or in the "body/ip" side? If its on the body side, it could be for your seat memory or for the GEM (hot in start)... the first is an option that you may not have or use and the second tells the GEM what state the vehicle is in and since "start" is only momentary, it is likely you might not notice any operational difference.