Wont go into Drive... 1994 Explorer

[RuffRyder]

Here it is, I had my 1994 Explorer xlt since March of last year. Bought it from a women (1 OWNER) SHE HAD THE SERVICE RECORDS and everything, it runs like a new car. Well at the beginning of the summer it still was running like a champ, one day i turned on my a/c... the a/c worked blowing cold air so i thought nothing about it. Later that day i started the truck up, put it in drive and it would not move. I looked under the truck and it was spraying transmission fluid. I had it towed to a shop and the front sealed had broke! Ok they drop it and fix it, running good for about a month or so, only thing was a small leak every now and then, straight down directly under the hood of the car... where the spots were under the car... took it to the shop They checked the lines and the told me not to worry. I turned the a/c on again, mind you, i only turned the a/c on twice since i had the car, and the two times i turn it on.. my transmission went crazy!... a/c blowing cool air so i thought nothing of it. Later that day started the truck up and it would not go into drive... ****... Checked fluid and it was OK! Now thats where im at now. I drove in reverse about a half a block threw it into drive and it drove..Ok, stopped by a store put it in park waiting for a friend to come out the store, tryed to put it in drive and it would not go into drive again. I played with the gas shifted from park to drive, about three minutes later it caught and drove. It seems i have to leave it in drive, when i can actually get it to drive or i have to do the steps mention everytime i take it out of drive. Help me! I took it to the shop and they cant tell me whats wrong... Help Me out Man! My transmission seems find. NO SLIPPING WHILE IN DRIVE and has never slipped before me... Run Beautiful! turning on that damn A/C causes all the trouble! Im thinking its something with the coolant

 

[TallGuy_AZ]

Have you checked the fluid level? I know that sounds dumb, but it's happened many times before.

 

[Blee1099]

When you checked the fluid, was the truck running and on level ground? Usually when your checking the tranny fluid, its best to run the engine for minimum of 5 minutes before checking. Your delayed shifting issues definately sound like a valve body issue and possibly a governor sticking.. Please read the A4LD valve body rebuild thread by Glacier991.. In regards to it having issues when the AC is on, I'm puzzled.. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[Glacier991]

In the A4LD selecting drive is not an electrically controlled function. The shift lever moves the manual valve directing fluid to the appropriate circuits. Shift cable issues, bracket issues, Z-link issues and manual valve issues and low fluid issues could affect this, but not AC issues.

If you are confident you have adequate fluid in the tranns, I'd check all the linkages and if they look fine drop the pan and check out the Z link and manual valve.

It's a little early to tell but a valve body rebuild might be in order.

As for the AC... that's a tough one. The only thing I can see AC doing in your case is adding heat load to the radiator....

The only electrically controlled shifts in your A4ld are the torque convertor lockup (a terrific heat producer if missing) and the 3-4 shift.

Your leakage COULD be heat related.... and an overventing of hot fluid, which this tranny does readily when overheated. Sooo the only possible connection I could see if that either you have an electrical issue relating to turning on the AC and no TCC lockup, or a general automotive overheat, which SHOULD manifest itself on your temp gauge too.

 

[RuffRyder]

Thanks Guys... Yes i've checked tranny fluid while running for about 10 minutes, fluid is fine. I am puzzled myself, i think i also have a heat problem glacier! Like i said the truck runs beautiful and people are shock to see the condition its in for a 1994 truck. Im stuck dont know what it could be. I said it was the A/C because everytime i turn it on... i have trouble with my tranny.. Something could be loose or leaking or not adjusted im thinking also

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Turning on the A/C will cause the condenser to get hot, and eventually heat up the radiator as well. The radiator has a section for transmission fluid. If you are low on coolant, it is possible that the internal section in the radiator is not cooling the transmission fluid properly. Check my signature for a link about this problem from WWW.ATRA.Com. I had this on my 89. Even though the coolant level was correct, it still sprayed ATF when I turned on the A/C. My radiator was filled with a lot of junk. I just flushed it out on Friday, but didn't get a chance to see if it made a difference. I'm sure that it is able to cool better without all that rust, and sludge. When was the last time you cleaned out your cooling system? You might also have a bad thermostat.

 

[RuffRyder]

Thanks BrooklynBay for responding! I have NEVER cleaned out my coolant system... but i will be doing it as soon as i get a chance. Hopefully thats is the problem, i will check my Thermostat also

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check my thread called 10 steps to a clean cooling system: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162848. It's in the Technician Corner section. It has a step by step procedure on flushing, and cleaning out the cooling system.

 

[Hilrage]

My explorer also started acting exactly like Ruffryders when I ran the AC. The z link is fine, and when it finally goes into gear, there is absolutely no slippage. I did notice when I was checking it out that my transmission does not have a heat shield beside the vacuum valve on the side of the tranmission. The extra heat to the front from running the AC, and the heat from the CAT right beside the vacuum valve could have messed up the diaphram, but can anyone tell me if a bad vacuum diaphram would keep it from going into gear? When you rev the engine, that would add extra vacuum to the system. . . Is that why we can get it to shift sometimes while doing that?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Check your vacuum line for ATF. If you see any inside of it, then your modulator is bad. The heat shield protects the modulator, and the 2 servos (overdrive, and intermediate).

 

[billz260]

I think I may be having some similar heat issues w/ my motor and tranny. Fixed a busted freeze plug today, 5 hours in the 100+ heat, hoping to cure the heat issues but it seems they are still there after a short drive this evening. Basically the motor is low on power and the trans shifts fine but the convter won't lock up on the hwy. Any thoughts?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Did you try to clean your MAF sensor?

 

[billz260]

Thanks, I've been reading / lurking for quite a while. Don't usually post unless I have a big issue or something I can't figure out.

As for the MAF I had it in my hands yesterday when I was serviceing the K&N air filter and it looked totally clean, I mean almost spotless. The screen did anyway, so I figured it didn't need to be cleaned. What do you think? Are the inlets on the edges of the sensor the parts that need to be cleaned? I havn't done it before. I've got almost 140K.

Power seems to be back this morning, but it's still not enguaging the lock up solinoid on the TC. Really it's not an issue as far as driveability but w/ gas being 3 bucks a gallon, I'd like to sqeeze as much out of it as I can you know?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Open it up, and check the sensor wire inside of it.

 

[billz260]

Looking at pics of the other MAF's on there they have only a couple of wires, ,mine is a mesh screen that fills the entire body of the MAF. They looked clean enough, but it's such an easy fix, I'll run to O'reilys at lunch and clean it.

there are slots that allow air to run through the outer housing and bypass the mesh, I'll clean it all.

 

[billz260]

Grabbed some cleaner at lunch, I cleaned the MAF and the throttle body. Apparently it's clean enough to allow the converter to lock now, pings supper hard and is underpowered through 3k then pulls after that. I'll run the rest of the bottle through. Probably have some more gunk in the intake system somewhere...

 

[t_Cam72]

my tranny wont go into drive

I am also having an issue with my transmission going into drive. I have to start out in 2 and then after 25 mph it will go into d and stay there till i come to a complete stop. ANY thoughts??

 

[naht-e]

I am having the same problem. Reverse worked perfectly, went into drive and would have to rev up 400 rpms. And it would grab, used to have a fluid leak, so replaced gasket and did new fluid, no leak now. But now i can't even get into drive, no possible way works. Stuck in my driveway.