Won't start, stuck on road

[Rob1234]

Hello

I have a 1997 Explorer XLT 2WD 4 Door V6 (not sure if it's SOHC or not) with 150,000 miles on it. (and relatively no complaints up to this point).

Two days ago I was low on gas so I got about $10 worth and went on about my business. About 15-20 mins later it started hesitating and idling rough intermittently. It progressively got worse, to the point of barely running and the Check Engine light came on. I figured I got bad gas/water in my tank.


Figuring it was water in my gas I put some HEET in the tank and let it run for about 15-20 minutes and the hesitation/stuttering went away at idle. I drove it to the store near my place and it ran fine for the first 2-3 minutes then started hesitating again. Drove it maybe 1 mile or so further and it hesitated/bucked and just died.

Coasted into a parking lot and now it won't start. It cranks, it tries to turn over but just won't start. Occasionally it will almost turn over, or it will turn over and start to run but then almost immediately it will die again. Fuel gage says I have about 1/4 of a tank which sounds about right, and I'm on a SLIGHT incline but with the front end higher than the rear.

I tried starting it with a jump (jumper cables), no change. I pulled each cap off of the ignition coil deal on the top right hand side of the motor and each cap is getting spark. (side note, if I disconnect the electrical connector that goes to the side of the coil housing obviously I get no more spark but the engine sounds the exact same when trying to start it).

I checked the air filter and it's slightly dirty but even with it pulled out the engine won't start.

I don't have a computer tool to hook up and pull the code but I may go get one if it's required.

What should I/could I check that's relatively easy to do sitting on the side of the road before either buying a code puller or towing it to a shop ?

IAC ?
MAF ?
Fuel Regulation/Fuel Pump electronics ?

I have little experience with working on this specific truck but am fairly competent in general, but I don't have a Haynes Manual or the owners manual/wiring diagrams on me.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Rob

 

[marragtop]

When you turn the key to the ON position, do you hear the fuel pump prime for a second or two? If not, it could be the fuel pump relay, or inertia switch, or fuel pump itself. If you do hear it run, then it could be the fuel filter. Have you tried squirting ether into the intake and then try starting it(need to be careful when doing that)?

 

[Rob1234]

Haven't checked to hear it prime or not, will check. I haven't tried squirting into the intake... where would I squirt ?

Aside from the obvious issue of squirting a flammable object into something designed to light it on fire, is there any specific thing to watch out for ?

Thanks.

 

[orange_exploder]

Haven't checked to hear it prime or not, will check. I haven't tried squirting into the intake... where would I squirt ?

Aside from the obvious issue of squirting a flammable object into something designed to light it on fire, is there any specific thing to watch out for ?

Thanks.

You can squirt it into the throttle body. Also, You might want to get a fuel pressure gauge and make sure it has enough pressure.

 

[DeRocha]

Do as Marragtop has suggested.. Get in the vehicle, shut the door, and make sure the radio and all accessories are off (helps you to hear the fuel pump). Put the key in the ignition and turn it just to the run position (not start). The warning lights will come on and the fuel pump will get power for only 2 seconds to pressurize the lines.. If you cannot hear the pump you'll need to check the fuel pump fuse (power dist box under hood). As well as the inertia switch under the glove box.

 

[Explorinator]

How low on gas were you? If it was real low, you may have picked up some trash from the bottom of the tank and clogged your filter a bit. Ihave seen this happen and it will run fine at idle, but not under load when there is more demand for fuel.

 

[Rob1234]

OK so I cleaned the MAF and the IAC and re-installed, checked the inertia switch (it's supposed to be depressed correct?) and all of that seems good.

I tried to turn the key over and listen for the fuel pump but heard nothing.

I checked the regular fuses in the fuse box under the hood but none of them looked bad, and I don't know exactly which one I should be looking for, or if it's a relay, and again, I don't have any of the manuals on me so I'm not sure which relay/fuse it should be...

Can anyone give some ideas on which one (s) to check and whether they are in the fuse box inside the vehicle or in the power distribution box in the engine compartment ?

Any other ideas besides the fuse as to why it wouldn't be kicking on ?

Thanks everyone thus far... I'm sitting in a Starbucks (luckily with wireless internet) searching the web for info and then heading back over to my truck as I find new things to try.

 

[Turdle]

does this help?

 

[pitbulldell]

for a quick fix just to get home take a large object and hit the gas tank this might jar the fuel pump enough to start and get you home. Then replace the fuel pump.This trick got me home once when my fuel pump went out.

 

[Papa]

Here are some hints I got from some of the other guys that have dealt with this credit goes to them please.

Fuel pump inertia switch pictured

goatja
Well guys i have run every test i could and i have spark, but no fuel i checked the vaulve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure, i checked all of my relays and when you have someone turn the swith you can feel them turn on and i replaced them any ways. does this sound like a fuel pump because when you turn the key you dont hear the fuel pump kick on?? its my best guess

DeRocha
Get a meter and test for power at the fuel pump inertia switch pictured below.. When you turn the key to run 12v will appear (either wire) for 2secs and then drop off to a couple of volts...

The initial 12v is to pressurize the fuel line in preparation for starting the engine. After 2 secs the computer tests the tach line and if the engine isn't rotating it kills power to the fuel pump...

Sorry I could not get the picture to paste.

410Fortune

If the fuel pump relay is switching on and the fuse is good (small yellow 20 amp fuse in a Gen I) then LISTEN FOR THE PUMP. the + wire that goes to the pump does have a connector down under the brake booster, I would check this since this happened jsut after washing your engine compartment and it appears the relay is coming on.

Wire should be pink with black.

Intermittent fuel pump coming on and off issues on a Gen I are almost always a problem with the relay and or wiring to the relay.
the 91-92 4.0L has the relays mounted to where they are semi exposed to the elements. The wires will corrode and the relay internals will do the same.

Sometimes just putting in a new relay will only helpl for a short time. the box they mount in itself should be cleaned/serviced the wire ends etc.

Its really not too diffuicult to remove the fuse box and relays and clean up the connectors. All Ford wiring connectors come apart, the wires lock in place.

Unless of course the fuel pump's time is just "up".


If the pump does not come on you can check the wiring to it, and check for 12V+ at the appropriate wire near the pump. If it does not come on and you have a signal from the computer it is fuel pump time.

 

[IZwack]

if you cant hear the fuel pump from inside the vehicle, jump out of the vehicle after you turn the key and get under the fuel tank, you should definitely hear the buzzing from there.

 

[marragtop]

Make sure that the connector on the bottom of the inertia switch is on tight. It's a shot in the dark, but an easy check. Once my '95 wouldn't start, and I went thru the same process you are going through. Turned out, my daughter had somehow kicked the plug off the bottom of the inertia switch. Needless to say, the last thing you want to do is to have to install a new pump.