U-joints: Car Quest "Gold" vs. Pep Boys "Brute Force"

[IZwack]

So for a few hours yesterday I was researching for a "good" 1310 series U-joint. I dug up some posts from other forums stating to skip the "Brute Force" brand (commonly from Pep Boys) and instead get the Car Quest "Gold" label.

Well anyways, I got both U-joints so I can compare them side by side and it turns out that they are the same exact U-joint.

On the left, the Car Quest U-joint. And on the right, the "Brute Force" U-joint

They even have the same exact "103" marking on the body:

The box also states they are from the same company, NEAPCO:

So whats the difference between the two? Well the price.
Car Quest: $17.48 (before tax)
Pep Boys: $14.99 (before fax)

Perhaps in the past Car Quest used a differnt manufacturer for their U-joints but the one I purchased is of course exactly the same as the one from Pep Boys.

It also should be noted that the "Brute Force" brand is available not only from Pep Boys, but also I think Advanced Auto.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

IMO SPICER brand is the only way to go. The best places to buy u-joints from is a place that specializes in drive lines.

 

[Brian1]

Haha, pretty cool you caught that. I have always heard to not get the Brute force joints as well but I have been beating on my Brute Force joints with no problems yet.

I got mine at Autozone.

 

[IZwack]

I have been beating on my Brute Force joints with no problems yet. I got mine at Autozone.

I bought a 1350-series "Brute Force" from Advanced Auto for the 14-bolt and its held up fine.. so far

 

[rookieshooter]

IMO SPICER brand is the only way to go. The best places to buy u-joints from is a place that specializes in drive lines.

I've heard that also. But just wondering has anybody really compared them with the brand that IZwack posted. Just what does supposedly make Spicer better? If there is a marked difference and Spicer is better I'd like to know. Cause I'm looking to buy some U-joints soon. Any other sites maybe have info on this.

That's good info IZwack thanks for posting.

 

[DeRocha]

Nice catch... I've been running brute force U-joints (all 8 locations) for the past 2 years with no issues...

 

[jrgaylor]

The driveshaft shop I go to says the NEAPCO brand is every bit as good as the SPICER brand but they are a little cheaper.
I am running Neapco joints in my driveshaft

 

[rookieshooter]

OK, in my never ending search for "Truth Justice and the American way". I did some researching on the pros and cons of Spicer vs. Neapco.

Now the info I got was not from the horses mouth so to speak, but from various off-road sites and engenering sites. The Spicer joints are supposedly cold forged where Neapco are hot forged.
Cold forged = stronger
Hot forged = weaker

Cold forging rearanges the crstal pattern atoms in a more compact pattern making it stronger. Example, take a steel rod and bend it cold. When you try to bend it back it now wants to bend at another point other then where it was bent.
Hot forging rearanges the metal atome more back into it's original pattern making it more easy to bend after the desired shape.
This example was played out about 2 weeks ago when I was helping to rebend a 41 Willys frame. I told the owner why don't we just heat it up and he said no. You want to bend it cold. For the same reason mentioned above. So we hammerd and used jacks to bend.
Of course getting the info straight from Spicer or whoever owns Spicer would shed more light on this subject.
I think someone else does now own it.

Just added: Cold forging = Closer tolerences also

 

[BrooklynBay]

When I purchased my U joints in AutoZone, I asked them to look up the 89, and 93 year parts. One year had the same part # for the inner, and outer joints while another year had 2 different part #'s for the inner, and outer joints. I asked the guy to show me all 3 parts. The #'s on the boxes were different, but the actual parts had the same #'s! Each one was a different price with a different number, but were the same part (at least from the markings on the part).

 

[Dan Whitaker]

When I purchased my U joints in AutoZone, I asked them to look up the 89, and 93 year parts. One year had the same part # for the inner, and outer joints while another year had 2 different part #'s for the inner, and outer joints. I asked the guy to show me all 3 parts. The #'s on the boxes were different, but the actual parts had the same #'s! Each one was a different price with a different number, but were the same part (at least from the markings on the part).

The numbers like the 103 on the ones IZwack posted are casting numbers used by the maunufaturer.
It does not mean they are identical parts. The body might be the same but the caps them selves are probably a different i.d and/or o.d.