Fuel Line? 98 Spt 4WD SOHC 4.0L (pictures) | Ford Explorer Forums

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Fuel Line? 98 Spt 4WD SOHC 4.0L (pictures)

Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
12
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City, State
Burlington County, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 Exp Sport
Hey everybody.

Recently I had my check engine light come on. I hooked the car up to my fellow firefighters computer. It stated I had a large emission leak.

I think I have the problem found. (see photo at end of post)

Is this the fill line? Or another part? What am I looking to spend on repairing this?? (If anybody knows)



Thanks in advance, appreciate all who reply!:salute:

Stay Safe:us:

100_3112.jpg
 



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Not sure what you are trying to indicate about "fuel line".... that's the gas cap "receiver" for the tank. Possible problem may be a gas cap gasket failure... easy to check with a new one. The other possibility is a hole in your tank either along the seam or the top where the pump (and corresponding seals) are.
 






Not sure what you are trying to indicate about "fuel line".... that's the gas cap "receiver" for the tank. Possible problem may be a gas cap gasket failure... easy to check with a new one. The other possibility is a hole in your tank either along the seam or the top where the pump (and corresponding seals) are.

Thats all that broken plastic is?


I just took it to a mechanic a few doors down, he said when I'm filling, all the broken plastic is letting air in between the time the nozzle is pulled and the gas cap is put back on.

where can I replace this on my own, if possible?
 






I am sorry if I don't understand you or are taking you "lightly", but you are kidding right???? Your statement about the air going in between the time you are filling your tank and putting your cap back on is "funny". What do you think happens when you take your cap off before your put the nozzle in.... you think the air just "sits there". Anyways, air getting in or out IS your problem BUT its during your vehicle operation and not when you are filling your tank. In terms of replacing the filler "tube", not sure but I think the plastic "receiver / connector" can be replaced seperately from the tank.... however, it isn't "easy". From the inside panel (underneath) there is a rubber hose running from the "receiver/connector" to your tank. You need to disconnect that at the tank (remove the clamp and "twist off" the hose from the fitting). You then need to remove the three screws shown in your picture. This will cause the "receiver/connector" (along with the hose) to drop / or be removed so that you can work with it on a bench to remove the "receiver/connector" from the other end of the hose. Replace and reverse the process to re-install. Note: your gas tank should be as empty as it can be to prevent any leaks during the work.

HOWEVER, from your wording / description, I am thinking that you should probably have someone help you or get it done at a garage.
 






I am sorry if I don't understand you or are taking you "lightly", but you are kidding right???? Your statement about the air going in between the time you are filling your tank and putting your cap back on is "funny". What do you think happens when you take your cap off before your put the nozzle in.... you think the air just "sits there". Anyways, air getting in or out IS your problem BUT its during your vehicle operation and not when you are filling your tank. In terms of replacing the filler "tube", not sure but I think the plastic "receiver / connector" can be replaced seperately from the tank.... however, it isn't "easy". From the inside panel (underneath) there is a rubber hose running from the "receiver/connector" to your tank. You need to disconnect that at the tank (remove the clamp and "twist off" the hose from the fitting). You then need to remove the three screws shown in your picture. This will cause the "receiver/connector" (along with the hose) to drop / or be removed so that you can work with it on a bench to remove the "receiver/connector" from the other end of the hose. Replace and reverse the process to re-install. Note: your gas tank should be as empty as it can be to prevent any leaks during the work.

HOWEVER, from your wording / description, I am thinking that you should probably have someone help you or get it done at a garage.

Ok, thanks Bud. Its going in for some internal repairs, I'll just add this to the list

Thanks again!

:us:
 






Hey everybody.

Recently I had my check engine light come on. I hooked the car up to my fellow firefighters computer. It stated I had a large emission leak.

I think I have the problem found. (see photo at end of post)

Is this the fill line? Or another part? What am I looking to spend on repairing this?? (If anybody knows)



Thanks in advance, appreciate all who reply!:salute:

Stay Safe:us:

100_3112.jpg


For those that aren't seeing it, there should be a little baffle in there that the filler neck slips into, not just a big 2" hole there...

As for that being the cause of the gross evaporative emissions leak, I'm not sure.... it *could* be, but I doubt it.... the fuel cap itself being left off would be a bigger issue that would cause the same code. How was that piece damaged in teh first place? Maybe someone tore a hole in the hose at the same time?

-Joe
 






The baffle is there to prevent slosh from "blowing" your cap off much like a back up prevent on a sewer line. It doesn't help emissions (not the code)... but looking at the picture further, it looks like the cap thread have been removed (still on the inside of the cap???) as when I look at my fuel cap area... there is a larger thread portion than what appears to be shown. Anyways, the last time that I saw one "like this" (on a GM), it was caused by a "friendly siphoner" with a "not too friendly" siphon hose.... :-)... that's my guess.
 






Starting somewhere around 97 or 98, they went to a 1/6th turn cap instead of a threaded cap, hence the lack of threads. Just peeked: Mine looks the same way (sans the baffle, of course).

It appears on mine that the seal is on the top of the flange, not down inside, so as long as the seal on the cap was intact, that's probably not the source of the gross evap leak code.

-Joe
 






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