Ex Sport dying under 1K rpm, sputters starts in Neut, then dies back in drive. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ex Sport dying under 1K rpm, sputters starts in Neut, then dies back in drive.

FetchThis

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July 12, 2012
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City, State
Boonville In
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 ExSport 4.0 V6 SOHC
I checked my battery cables - good, battery charged - good, Alt - good, starter cables tight, motor ground wire tight. thought it might be bad gas, bought some fuel treatment and new gas, drove for a while today around town and no probs. last 15mi trip to home and almost there and sputters out and dies at light. After a couple cranks sounding like its running out of gas it starts, put it in drive and runs till next stop...does same thing. let it sit for about 10 min, starts up, drives a mile and repeats. while this was happening today, the 4wd hi-lo lights blinking 6 times. got home, let it sit for a few hours - starts, runs in drive or reverse but lights still blinking...any thoughts? Are they connected. just used 4wd a month ago and worked fine. Fuel Pump going? Ignition switch? Any thoughts? Thanks guys
 



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I'd probably check the fuel pressure.
 






Check the IAC, maynot be a total failure. Long shot, but easy to do.
 






***update***

Went to check for codes this morning. Said there was a J1850 Bus fault at the ECM wiring harness. Got some cleaner for that and grease and took care of that. Went back and rechecked codes...everything clear - not a fault code at all, which is the way it was before. Prior to the dying I had noticed the check engine light coming on, then the abs and now the hi-lo blinking after the last dying episode, but at this time everything clear. I drove all day no problems, bought a fuel filter from my bud Mick at Ford, put some STP FI Concentrate Cleaner in with a tank of gas, and picked up some MAF cleaner and TB cleaner. Putting the Fuel Filter in the morning plus cleaning the MAF, TB and reinstalling my K&N...will also disconnect my 4wd to clear the blinking lights...then i will check fuel pressure. I thought my Father in Law put a new Fuel filter in about 3-4 yrs ago when i bought it so hoping I dodged a bullet :eek: guess we'll see
 






**UPDATE**
Well Saturday i had a chance to change the fuel filter, clean the MAF, wiped down the tunnel but didn't take it off the Throttle Body, took the paper air filter out and recharged my K&N and put it back it. I also disconnected the 4WD plug, QD cleaned it and greased it. The filter was filthy - black gas coming out. Didn't get to the TB cause i had planned on going fishing. That didn't happen. I STARTED THE TRUCK AND LET IT RUN FOR A BIT AND RAN FINE BUT DIDN'T DRIVE IT, but no sputtering death like the last time. After we got everything loaded in the boat, and hooked the trailer up, and had doors open, tailgate lid while loading - i had a bulb out on the trailer and was messing with that. After a while we Got in the truck to leave and battery light on the IP was lighting up, revved it up, seemed to go out but voltage was drawing down so i drove to walmart for some bulbs for the trailer and some magnet lights JIC. Had an extra battery with me. Battery went completely dead and truck died. Switched the battery and same thing happened but managed to get home. Thinking back, when my truck started acting funny it was when I had a trailer hooked up to it, and then not the few last times, then Saturday night again with the trailer hooked up. We tested the voltage from the Alternator, checked fuses and relays and out thinking was it was the Alt. Good luck finding that on Sunday in southern Indiana...had a few beers and went to bed. That SUCKED!
 






Steps taken so far to find the solution...

So far this has been done:
DAY 1
1. Checked for error codes - system check said it couldn't communicate with the truck so based on the given code I took apart the ECM connection, QD cleaned and greased it.
2. Rechecked for codes again and there were none. I take good care of my truck so there shouldn't have been any under normal circumstances until all this recently started happening, I had the check engine light come on, the abs light came on and finally the HI-Lo lights blinking...but after the cleaning, just the Hi-Lo lights were left. Drove it the rest of that day and it was fine.

DAY 2
3. Took the CAI cover off stopping at the MAF. Removed the paper filter, cleaned out the box, and got my K&N back out and recharged it.
4. CLEANED the MAF by using about half a can of MAF Cleaner from different angles and with a towel in the tunnel to it didn't run everywhere. There was a light film to wipe out, but did not touch the sensor wires. Cant find my pic but it looked cleaner.
5. INSTALLED the Ford fuel filter i picked up from the dealership - Mick handles the parts department there and always takes care of me so got that for around $13. Installed that - man was the filter bad...nothing but black gas coming out.
6. UNPLUGGED, CLEANED & GREASED the connection to the 4WD. I kept it unplugged till I was done with everything else.

After adding more load to the trucks electrical system with the trailer lights, it eventually died that evening -

7. Checked fuses and relays -good. TESTED the Alternator again since the truck drew two batts down. Not doing so well...THINK I FOUND THE CULPRIT! Next day comin...
 

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***WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE! pROBLEM SOLVED*** Day 3 - Part 1

DAY 3 - ON A SUNDAY MY MISSION WAS TO FIND AN ALTERNATOR IN STOCK
8. CHANGING THE ALTERNATOR: there are 2 Alts listed for this truck a 90amp and 130amp if i remember correctly. I normally would go to Napa (i stay away from the Pep, Zone, Advanced and Oriellys) but Oriellys had a new 130amp top o line model for $130 something OTD after my discount. So i grabbed it and shot home.
9. REMOVED CAI BACK TO THE THROTTLE BODY. Talk about dirty! Cleaning the TB was something I had been planning on doing anyway, and as you can see it badly needed it. To take the CAI all the way off, I had to disconnect the two hoses which just pulled off easily. I cleaned them the as much as i could and vacumned them out for any loose debri.
 

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***PROBLEM SOLVED*** DAY 3 - pART 2

10. I had to unplug what I believe is the IAC plug (sorry if that's the wrong name) FIRST TO EASILY LOOSEN THE TUNNEL AT THE TB...WHICH I CLEANED AND GREASED IT BEFORE RECONNECTING. Oh i did get a new TB gasket to on the way home - I had ordered that previously on Day 2 in case - turned out to be a smart move.
11. RELEASED THE TWO THROTTLE CABLES FROM THE TB. I have Cruise Control...just opened the throttle to release the tension...
12. REMOVED FOUR SCREW BOLTS AND REMOVED THE THROTTLE BODY AND GASKET.
13. GENTLY CLEANED THE TB. I scraped the little bit of the gasket off and all residue around the lip of the opening and all around where the CAI hose connects. Lots of patience, soaking, a toothbrush and a whole can of TB Cleaner. Eventually I was satisfied and was sparkly smooth.
14. RELEASE TENSIONER AND REMOVER SERP BELT FROM ALTERNATOR.
Ive done that many times before in my lifetime so no problem. I removed the ground bolt, the two bottom bolts and the power nut, and the alternator came right off. **by the way - before all this I REMOVED MY BATTERY TO GIVE IT A FULL CHARGE ***.
15. SANDED BOTH ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS AND QD GREASED BEFORE RE-INSTALLING THE NEW ALTERNATOR. Then I just reversed steps and it went right on.
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Day 3 continued - finished finally

16. RE-INSTALLED THROTTLE BODY.
:D NOTE :fire: DO NOT DROP THE SOCKET YOUR USING (I THINK A 10 MIL) IN THE BOTTOM OF THE FAN SHROUD WHEN TIGHTENING THE TB SCREW/BOLTS!! Anyway from here its just following your steps backwards. The TB gasket has dummy proof fitting so you cant put that on backwards thank God. I also vacuumed everything out before/at reassembling.

17. RE-INSTALLED FULLY CHARGED BATTERY AFTER SANDING AND QD CLEANING AND GREASING THE BATTERY GROUND. for good measure I also lightly greased the terminals on the battery. My connections are new brass ones and secure.

DUDE THIS TRUCK RUNS BETTER THAN EVER!!! STARTED RIGHT UP - VOLTAGE METER KEEPING A HIGHER MARK THAN BEFORE, EVEN UNDER A FULL LOAD. TOOK IT FOR A ROAD TEST AND WOW! IT IS QUICK, IMMEDIATE THROTTLE RESPONSE FEELS AWESOME! :burnout: HOOKING THE TRAILER DOESN'T EVEN PHASE, LIGHTS ARE BRIGHTER AND IT GETS UP AND GOES! I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE - I KNOW THERE IS LOTS OF INFO ON HERE, AND I AM NOT A MECHANIC - BUT NOT SO MUCH FOR MY EXACT MODEL SO I POSTED SOME PICS. I READ READ READ AND AM CAREFUL WHO I LISTEN TOO. THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR ALL THE INFORMATION I READ AND THAT TRIED TO HELP...THIS SITE IS GREAT AND I APPRECIATE EVERYTHING. DROVE ALL DAY AND NOT EVEN A HINT OF TROUBLE - JUST AS MUCH POWER AS ITS EVER HAD. ILL BE WATCHING THE GAS MILEAGE AND LET ALL KNOW HOW ITS GOING. THANKS AGAIN :salute:
 






My theory

My theory is It seems that the extra draw I had been putting on it since Ive had the truck has been pushing the alt slowly to its death...new stereo w/ usb, new speakers all around, reviving the amp system by adding a new JL 8" sub(the other was blown), upgraded headlights and fogs...replacing blown fuses, rebuilt 5R55e Trans, towing trailers, making it work... you get the picture...LITTLE DID I KNOW IT WAS STILL RUNNING WITH what LOOKS TO BE THE ORIGINAL ALTERNATOR... I KNOW, I KNOW but It has 204k on it - some things are just a matter of time. Ive owned Fords all my life and always had good luck with em. I also take good care of em, regular maintenance consistently and am looking forward to some more mods...any one have any suggestions of leveling the back end up before I put any shocks on? And how bout shocks? Thanks
 

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thanks man I appreciate that.any suggestions on leveling my back end and on shocks?
 






The "right" way would be new leafs. The Monroe 58617 rear load adjusting shocks have a HUGE following here, do a search.
 






thanks man I appreciate that.any suggestions on leveling my back end and on shocks?
 






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