2012 Explorer Limited Advance Light Traction Control and Yellow wrench came on.

[jkbird]

Im new here so bare with me just wanted to share my situation that happened with my 2012 ford explorer. Recently I replaced the engine on my 2012 while car was working fine oneday wife wakes up heads to market and my phone rings she says the car overheated and lost power and shut off. So to make story short turns out coolant got in my oil cause waterpump went bad.. so asked around whats my best option so i went and replaced the whole engine my engine only had 129500 miles on it with services up todate. Anyways mounted a used engine i bought on ebay with low miles and was working perfect till about 2 weeks ago out of nowhere my advance light came on my traction control light that yellow wrench and ck engine light all came on. So took it to 3 diffrent shops and all gave me diffrent solutions that each would cost me around 700 to 800 dollars to fix.
After not realy getting any true solutions with those shops they were all saying about the codes popping on 1 code was to replace purge valve and about 7 more codes that im not getting into.. Sorry for making this so long but the results are worth it if you have similuar problem. Anyways i end up calling up the young kid who intalled my new engine and asked if he could help by the way he workes for a chevy dealer in el centro,ca funny chevy guy working on my ford. So he came did the same stuff as those shops did but gave me a diffrent result all the codes that the other shops told he had those 2 and some sensors that said nedded to get replaced. Now heres what you guys have been waiting he told me its your negative ground cable its making everything go wack. He did some stuff where he tested the nagative cable coming from the battery going to 2 diffrent parts of the engine and grounds were off. So he also showed me look those sensors thst show on those codes are showing for that reason. If you want hear rest its a long one but it must be explained so you can pin point posible solutions on your explorer.. keep posted

 

[jkbird]

Im new here so bare with me just wanted to share my situation that happened with my 2012 ford explorer. Recently I replaced the engine on my 2012 while car was working fine oneday wife wakes up heads to market and my phone rings she says the car overheated and lost power and shut off. So to make story short turns out coolant got in my oil cause waterpump went bad.. so asked around whats my best option so i went and replaced the whole engine my engine only had 129500 miles on it with services up todate. Anyways mounted a used engine i bought on ebay with low miles and was working perfect till about 2 weeks ago out of nowhere my advance light came on my traction control light that yellow wrench and ck engine light all came on. So took it to 3 diffrent shops and all gave me diffrent solutions that each would cost me around 700 to 800 dollars to fix.
After not realy getting any true solutions with those shops they were all saying about the codes popping on 1 code was to replace purge valve and about 7 more codes that im not getting into.. Sorry for making this so long but the results are worth it if you have similuar problem. Anyways i end up calling up the young kid who intalled my new engine and asked if he could help by the way he workes for a chevy dealer in el centro,ca funny chevy guy working on my ford. So he came did the same stuff as those shops did but gave me a diffrent result all the codes that the other shops told he had those 2 and some sensors that said nedded to get replaced. Now heres what you guys have been waiting he told me its your negative ground cable its making everything go wack. He did some stuff where he tested the nagative cable coming from the battery going to 2 diffrent parts of the engine and grounds were off. So he also showed me look those sensors thst show on those codes are showing for that reason. If you want hear rest its a long one but it must be explained so you can pin point posible solutions on your explorer.. keep posted

Ok heres the follow up on my fix so what he told me was i must replace the battery cable harness and work from there so i searched for this battery harness found 1 for close to 300 dollars paid for it to a ford dealer only to later that week get a email saying that my part number was discontinued. Heres the part number # CB5Z14300A thats the harness I needed so i found another place they said they had it for 250 dollars went aheaed paid for it and bamm 2 days later same thing recieved an email saying ill be getting my money back in 3 to 7 days now im out of close to 600 hundred and no part. So my next step was looking for it used in junk yards and believe i looked for everywhere and could not find it.. So the only solution left the young guy told me lets make it from scratch so we did last night.. heres what steps were done..we removed battery and battery box also removed where the air filter goes so that we could get to the harness. Once everything was clear we striped the harness open and removed the negative cable that goes to 2 diffrent places in the chassis it sounds complicated but its not believe me its the solution.. so we removed the old cable and made a new one heres some pics the only bad was we could not get a black cable that late last night so we put a red one wich i will mark with label saying ground..

 

[jkbird]

Ok heres the follow up on my fix so what he told me was i must replace the battery cable harness and work from there so i searched for this battery harness found 1 for close to 300 dollars paid for it to a ford dealer only to later that week get a email saying that my part number was discontinued. Heres the part number # CB5Z14300A thats the harness I needed so i found another place they said they had it for 250 dollars went aheaed paid for it and bamm 2 days later same thing recieved an email saying ill be getting my money back in 3 to 7 days now im out of close to 600 hundred and no part. So my next step was looking for it used in junk yards and believe i looked for everywhere and could not find it.. So the only solution left the young guy told me lets make it from scratch so we did last night.. heres what steps were done..we removed battery and battery box also removed where the air filter goes so that we could get to the harness. Once everything was clear we striped the harness open and removed the negative cable that goes to 2 diffrent places in the chassis it sounds complicated but its not believe me its the solution.. so we removed the old cable and made a new one heres some pics the only bad was we could not get a black cable that late last night so we put a red one wich i will mark with label saying ground..

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Heres some info to what we did you see that sensor in the pic thats attached to the red cable it must be removed from the old negative cable and attached to the new cable.. now when the moment of truth came to start the car and see if it worked bummer all codes where still there and even when codes were erased they would come back. But he said this to me real confident give me 10 minutes to pin point this one last thing he got in his phone to look up what ever the snap on tool scanner was saying and went straight to my fuse box and replaced my tow fuse for a 15 amp wich it had a 20 amp before. Started up the car erased codes and thank my 3 weeks of stress were over.. but wanna now what was the best part was he only charged me 100 dollars but i gave him 150 were all 3 shops i went before had charged me 70 dollars each just to scan my car.. i hope this helps somebody if you guys have any questions please feel free to ask. Im only posting this because i truly was lost for 3 weeks with not knowing what to do or go without getting raped from those crooked ass shops....