Wuh wuh wuh wuh sound noticeable at all speeds but most pronounced once you hit about 35mph

[smashclash]

Car has about 88K on it. 2014 XLT.

Car had been making some clanking sounds (not metal on metal - just like something jostling) type of thing when going over bumps. I replaced the strut assemblies and that stopped that problem using the Monroes from rockauto. But it's now put the spotlight on another problem I was having.

This was there before I replaced the strut assembly but you notice it now. Not sure if it's worse than before I replaced the strut assembly or you just notice it now because the clanking is gone now that the strut assembly is replaced.

Anyway, you notice it at all speeds but it's most noticeable around 35mph. It's like a wuh wuh wuh wuh wuh sound that increases and decreases with speed.

It would probably be a good idea for me to take the car in and check/get an alignment since I replaced the struts but I'm not convinced this is the problem. From googling others seem to think it could be a wheel bearing. I think it comes from the front but not certain. I jacked up the front end (both front wheels off the ground) and grabbed the tire and I could not feel any play 6 to 12 or 3 to 9. Both driver and passenger side tires didn't feel like they had any play which you should be able to find if it was a bad bearing. Did the same thing with the back wheels for good measure. No play, all felt solid. Tires look fine, no bulges in sidewalls.

Turning while driving doesn't make a difference. Nothing feels like it's slipping. Car feels and drives ok. Just the wuh wuh wuh wuh isn't good and I'm concerned if I don't get it diagnosed and fixed it could prematurely wear something else out. I can't help but think it's got to be connected in some way to the strut assembly. Perhaps something around the front end like the struts wore out which caused whatever is now making this sound wear out.

Not sure what next steps are. Maybe go in for an alignment? Hate to piss away $100-200 on an alignment that might not make any difference. But don't know where to go from here.

Here's a video of it. Need sound up high and you probably notice it most at 13 seconds and beyond. https://photos.google.com/u/1/direc.../AF1QipPPmslJQ2yJ57UIVPQk0mz452rLrCitUuqjwJ80

 

[FordFlintrock]

Your link does not work for me. That said that type of noise sounds like tire with a twisted belt or two. With someone in back seat hanging their ears out the windows pinpoint the noise to a corner. Then a tire rotation again with the ears flapping in the breeze as a first step in diagnosing. If AWD when was the PTU last checked for fluid condition?

 

[smashclash]

Car has about 88K on it. 2014 XLT.

Car had been making some clanking sounds (not metal on metal - just like something jostling) type of thing when going over bumps. I replaced the strut assemblies and that stopped that problem using the Monroes from rockauto. But it's now put the spotlight on another problem I was having.

This was there before I replaced the strut assembly but you notice it now. Not sure if it's worse than before I replaced the strut assembly or you just notice it now because the clanking is gone now that the strut assembly is replaced.

Anyway, you notice it at all speeds but it's most noticeable around 35mph. It's like a wuh wuh wuh wuh wuh sound that increases and decreases with speed.

It would probably be a good idea for me to take the car in and check/get an alignment since I replaced the struts but I'm not convinced this is the problem. From googling others seem to think it could be a wheel bearing. I think it comes from the front but not certain. I jacked up the front end (both front wheels off the ground) and grabbed the tire and I could not feel any play 6 to 12 or 3 to 9. Both driver and passenger side tires didn't feel like they had any play which you should be able to find if it was a bad bearing. Did the same thing with the back wheels for good measure. No play, all felt solid. Tires look fine, no bulges in sidewalls.

Turning while driving doesn't make a difference. Nothing feels like it's slipping. Car feels and drives ok. Just the wuh wuh wuh wuh isn't good and I'm concerned if I don't get it diagnosed and fixed it could prematurely wear something else out. I can't help but think it's got to be connected in some way to the strut assembly. Perhaps something around the front end like the struts wore out which caused whatever is now making this sound wear out.

Not sure what next steps are. Maybe go in for an alignment? Hate to piss away $100-200 on an alignment that might not make any difference. But don't know where to go from here.

Here's a video of it. Need sound up high and you probably notice it most at 13 seconds and beyond. https://photos.google.com/u/1/direc.../AF1QipPPmslJQ2yJ57UIVPQk0mz452rLrCitUuqjwJ80

New video · Tuesday, Jul 2, 2024 🎬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[fosterzcj]

I am very sure that's the wheel bearings getting ready to go. You can drive for quite a while like that but it'll eat tires quickly. Check your tire tread for uneven wear on one tire over the others. I had a 2005 explorer do the same thing and we got a good 30,000 miles before that noise got really bad and started chewing tires. The noose for us started at 15MPH and got worse as speed increased. I would guess the front ones will go first then the rear. If it's a bearing and hub assembly it's about 8 hours of work per wheel and a 200 dollar part doing it in your driveway.

 

[smashclash]

I am very sure that's the wheel bearings getting ready to go. You can drive for quite a while like that but it'll eat tires quickly. Check your tire tread for uneven wear on one tire over the others. I had a 2005 explorer do the same thing and we got a good 30,000 miles before that noise got really bad and started chewing tires. The noose for us started at 15MPH and got worse as speed increased. I would guess the front ones will go first then the rear. If it's a bearing and hub assembly it's about 8 hours of work per wheel and a 200 dollar part doing it in your driveway.

Yeah I watched YouTube videos of the repair and it doesn't look fun. Just getting the rotor and hub off alone looks no fun.

How were you able to identify which wheel it was coming from? If I could do that I'd feel better but doing all 4 wheels in the driveway just to be sure I got the problem is not something I'd like to do.

 

[fosterzcj]

Yeah I watched YouTube videos of the repair and it doesn't look fun. Just getting the rotor and hub off alone looks no fun.

How were you able to identify which wheel it was coming from? If I could do that I'd feel better but doing all 4 wheels in the driveway just to be sure I got the problem is not something I'd like to do.

I went with the wheel that had the most play in it and had the most worn out tire. If you don't have any play by hand, use a bar of some sort and check for play with the wheel raised up. I went a long time with bad wheel bearings so I had a lot of play in it. If you spin the wheel by hand it should stop on its own in less than 1 turn and be quiet. If it spins more than that or you hear squeaking/grinding noise as it spins then it's bad. But the front are usually the first to go as it supports engine weight all the time.

 

[smashclash]

Rocking the wheels around by hand I can't tell. I don't feel play in them. When it's driven it does sound to me like it's coming from the front rather than the rear but I can't identify it coming from a certain side.

I went with the wheel that had the most play in it and had the most worn out tire. If you don't have any play by hand, use a bar of some sort and check for play with the wheel raised up. I went a long time with bad wheel bearings so I had a lot of play in it. If you spin the wheel by hand it should stop on its own in less than 1 turn and be quiet. If it spins more than that or you hear squeaking/grinding noise as it spins then it's bad. But the front are usually the first to go as it supports engine weight all the time.

When I looked at the old struts and new struts side by side I thought the new ones appeared a smidge taller. Could have been me, or could have been 88K miles wearing the originals down. Is it worth taking it in for an alignment and getting it looked at? Think there's any chance that could be causing the issue? It drives fine, no difference when turning, but wife does think this sound is now louder now that the struts have been replaced.

Looking at he videos of how this job goes getting that hub bearing out can't be a real PITA. And because I don't know which wheel is the problem I was planning to start with both fronts.

 

[Sixonemale]

Rocking the wheels around by hand I can't tell. I don't feel play in them. When it's driven it does sound to me like it's coming from the front rather than the rear but I can't identify it coming from a certain side.

When I looked at the old struts and new struts side by side I thought the new ones appeared a smidge taller. Could have been me, or could have been 88K miles wearing the originals down. Is it worth taking it in for an alignment and getting it looked at? Think there's any chance that could be causing the issue? It drives fine, no difference when turning, but wife does think this sound is now louder now that the struts have been replaced.

Looking at he videos of how this job goes getting that hub bearing out can't be a real PITA. And because I don't know which wheel is the problem I was planning to start with both fronts.

I'm not sure what you mean by it turns fine. One easy way to determine if it is front wheel bearing is to drive down a smooth ,quiet and vacant road with all electronics turned off in the interior and steer the car in the left and right directions and whichever way is louder than that's the wheel bearing. When you turn left the right wheel will carry a heavier load then the left wheel, it’s load will be reduced. In other words, if you turn the steering wheel left and it makes a noise then it’s the right wheel bearing and vice versa.

 

[smashclash]

I'm not sure what you mean by it turns fine. One easy way to determine if it is front wheel bearing is to drive down a smooth ,quiet and vacant road with all electronics turned off in the interior and steer the car in the left and right directions and whichever way is louder than that's the wheel bearing. When you turn left the right wheel will carry a heavier load then the left wheel, it’s load will be reduced. In other words, if you turn the steering wheel left and it makes a noise then it’s the right wheel bearing and vice versa.

I meant when driving down the road you can't turn to the left or the right forcing load to one side or the other and hear any difference. The helicopter/wuh wuh wuh sound is still there and increases with speed but makes no difference turning while driving left or right.

FWIW, we did have an issue with the PTU when the car had 43K on it. This was shortly after we got it and we got it repaired under powertrain warranty. Here is what the dealer had written at the time (October 2018):
1 Vehicle Concern
Customer States WHEN SHIFTING INTO REVERSE TRANSMISSION SLIPS
INTO GEAR AND RPMS FLARE UP WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE IN
REVERSE Original complaint: Customer States WHEN SHIFTING INTO
REVERSE TRANSMISSION SLIPS INTO GEAR AND RPMS FLARE UP WHEN
TRYING TO ACCELERATE IN REVERSE
1 -- Cause/Action to take
POWER TAKE OFF UNIT
1 -- Correction Action Taken
VERIFIED CUSTOMER CONCERN CHECKED FOR TSBS AND SSMS, NONE
FOUND. NO CODES PRESENT. ALL FLUIDS ARE FULL. ROAD TESTED
VEHICLE AND DUPLICATED CONCERN WHEN IN REVERSE AND TURNING
WHEEL VEHICLE HARSHLY BANGED. PERFORMED TEST ON LIFT WITH
VEHICLE RUNNING AND PIN POINTED NOISE TO INTERNALLY IN PTU.
REMOVED POWER TAKE OFF UNIT AND OPENED CASING. FOUND
BEARING AND GEAR FAILURE. CONTACTED FOR PRIOR APPROVAL,
REPLACED PTU UNDER APPROVAL CODE ESPA393044 109
Part Number Failed Description
AT4Z7251G POWER TAKE OFF ASY 1
DG1Z9448A GASKET 1
W716011S430 NUT 6
W520215S440 NUT - HEX. 1
W712435S439 NUT 1
W716182S439 BOLT 2
W712244S300 STUD 6



Back to the current issue: I just went outside again and raised both front wheels and spun them by hand. Neither makes any abnormal sounds. Both spun freely. Spinning one side the other side spins in reverse. Only sound is light rub of the brake pad against the rotor which is the same and sounds normal on both front wheels. Also tried twisting the tire again 3-9 and 12-6 for play but could feel no play in either. While rotating the tires I looked at each front tire to see if there were any objects in them and didn't see anything. No abnormal treadwear (tires were rotated about 7K ago and had been overdue).

Riding in the car it does sound like if I had to choose that the sound is coming from the front driver side. When driving the car it sounded like the wuh wuh wuh was coming from the front more than the rear. It was hard for me to tell if driver or passenger side when I was driving. Then I let my wife drive (and I lived to write this) and it sounded like it was a stronger on the driver side. My wife agreed. I guess being in the passenger seat gave me a better way to hear it.

So I'm going to take a leap of faith and try replacing the front driver side wheel hub/bearing. Bought a new Timken off ebay for like $80. I live in NJ so we get salt on our roads and looking online with others in a similar situation as me these hubs seem to get really stuck in the knuckle. So I already made the trip to Lowe's to get some grade 8 1/2" bolts and nuts and will try the cutoff two hub studs and drive the bolt into the knuckle approach to hopefully break the hub free. New hub bearing should be delivered this week so hopefully get to attack it next weekend. Fingers crossed. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[fosterzcj]

A sliding hammer would probably be more effective for getting the hub off. I
Or hitting it from the back with a demolition hammer very carefully. But it'll be hard to get off just be persistent. I would reccomend motorcraft over Timken though.

 

[smashclash]

A sliding hammer would probably be more effective for getting the hub off. I
Or hitting it from the back with a demolition hammer very carefully. But it'll be hard to get off just be persistent. I would reccomend motorcraft over Timken though.

I would prefer to get it off with a sliding hammer but from reading about removing this thing a sliding hammer doesn't seem to get the job done. I normally agree with you in that Motorcraft is the route you want to go. But motorcraft hasn't impressed me all that much on this car. Their sway bar linkage is junk for example. The Timken had good reviews. I suspect we'll only have the car another couple of years max anyway.

This is a good video showing how to remove the hub. It's the rear one in the video but it's the same principle and no splash guard to worry about for the front.

 

[FordFlintrock]

I sure would rotate the LF tire to another position firstly. Always start with the easy things.

 

[smashclash]

I sure would rotate the LF tire to another position firstly. Always start with the easy things.

Fair enough. Maybe I swap LF with RR. That way it'd be furthest away possible. Let me see if I can go do that right now.

 

[FordFlintrock]

You would have an alignment problem if the steering wheel is no longer centered as before or if the vehicle pulls to one side or the other which in my experience the quick struts u need the alignment often requiring adjustable camber bolts.
Me adjusting the rear after new upper control arm.

 

[smashclash]

You would have an alignment problem if the steering wheel is no longer centered as before or if the vehicle pulls to one side or the other now which in my experience the quick struts u need the alignment often needing adjustable camber bolts.

Just got done switching LF with RR. No change in wuh wuh wuh sound. Went up to 55mph and car steered fine. No pull to one side or the other.

 

[FordFlintrock]

Then on to the bearing as a next step. As others pointed out play in it would condemn and sound does not change with wheel steer loading the defective one, neither of which you got.

 

[smashclash]

Update: Brought it to my local Ford dealer this morning for the A pillar recall diagnostic. I also asked they check out the sound issue it's having. Here's what they came back with and the prices for them. I fell off my chair:

• Hub Assembly on both fronts (I assume this is another term for Wheel bearing. He mentioned how sometime the axle shaft can get stuck inside when removing and that would obviously be additional cost). $1,238.95
• Rear suspension lower control arms were both loose. $1,299
• Front brake pads are low $603
• Cabin filter $109
• Coolant flush $279
• Spark plugs (based on age) $576

Things I'm highly confident I can do myself:

• Front brake pads
• Cabin filter

Things I can probably do:

• Coolant flush. Done these on other vehicles but but not on this vehicle and it just depends on accessibility.
• Spark plugs. This engine sits in sideway. Assume the front ones you can do with your eyes close. Need to see how difficult it is to get to the back ones.
• Hub assembly. Assuming that's a synonym for wheel bearing. That looks like a PITA job but doable. I already bought one wheel bearing (and the grade 8 bolts) Looks like not a fun job since these can really get stuck on but with persuasion and patience you can do it.

Things not sure about:

• Rear suspension lower control arms. Haven't researched what's involved with these. Is it a hard job? Do you need to get the wheels aligned when finished? Tech said they were "loose".

 

[fosterzcj]

A coolant change is a simple dump amd replace. The wheel bearing use what's called a bearing and hub assembly which includes the bearing, hub, and abs traction sensors all in one. It makes for an expencive part but the reason I roccomend motorcraft is they have the magnetic sensor built in where as the after market parts don't alway so you lose abs and traction control functionality. Getting the old hub assemblies off is a pain but it goes back together easily. You may have to clean off where the assembly sits but it's easy enough to get together. Edited for spelling errors.

 

[smashclash]

Providing an update so there's closure to this. Nothing worse than someone posting a problem that's just like yours and never hearing how it ended.

So per above I let the dealer diagnose the issue. I bought all the parts to fix it myself. Took me a few days because it was my first go around and living in NJ we get salt on the roads (and thus corrosion).

Anyway, replaced on the front LCA, wheel bearing, brakes and rotors. She now drives like new. No more sound. Getting the wheel bearing out is by far the hardest part. I highly recommend anyone living where they salt the roads to not even bother with a slide hammer. Just cut off a stud and use a grade 8 bolt (1/2"). All the grade 8's I could find didn't have much thread. I think the length of mine were 4". I had to use some pieces of thick flat iron to allow the threads on the bolt to hit their potential. Just go slow and use a lot of PB blaster. And a big hammer doesn't hurt.

Also, FYI, I tried using a fully threaded 4" bolt initially and it just snapped off. So definitely splurge the extra few bucks on grade 8.

As for the bearing themselves. I could never feel any play in them. It just had to have been them because everything I read screams it's wheel bearings. I bought Timkens off ebay.

 

[peterk9]

^^ Thank you for being among those select members who provided a resolution to their problem.

Peter