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I hate to sound stupid but what will it say?I am not used to fords way of doing things,thanks. :D

As the man said loose connection makes low voltage= high amps=FIRE,ya might want to fix that before you have a barbeque.:D

A fluid flush will not fix this problem,it will only make the guy who suggested it some money.Also check the rear brake adjustment,it won't make the brakes spongey,but the pedal will have a bunch of travel.Now for the weird part,clamp the rubber brake lines off in front one at a time and see if...

Other then jacking the thing up is there a quick way to tell if I have a LS? :D

This is a wiring diagram for a 92 explorer but it will give you the general idea,I would check the relay power in and out,but take a look. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1825249&highlight=ac+wiring+diagram#post1825249

I went to autozone they have the diagram but it's real small,made to be printed out,if you have a printer,I don't, still in the truck go there and grab it.

Better not until I can see a wiring diagram,looking now.

OK,I would now get a wiring diagram to save yourself a lot of time and headaches,take your time and make sure you understand the diagram and then start testing.:D

Yep,he's right,I just happen to be deaf as a plank,so I can't hear it most times.If the clutch is bad,now you are talking more money then you want to spend,I would guess.The easy way to fix that is a rebuilt compressor and then all the stuff I told you before,as I said big bucks.The clutch is...

The truck needs to be running then jump the switch and the compressor should kick in no matter what the pressure.Get that to happen first,then go and have some dye put in and recharge the system and look for a leak. The dye will show up real easy,I guess you could do that yourself and refill...

No,just see if you have power to one side of the switch harness,if not then you need to find a diagram of the power circuit. Haynes and others like it are ok but if you can go to a dealer and ask to see a factory service manual,they might still have one.:D

If you had the right switch and jumped it correctly then you have a power problem somewhere,I would also take a test light and see if you have any power at the switch with the A/C on and the blower switch on.I don't have my book to look at the wiring diagram as I drive truck over the road and am...

I worked for GM dealers as a mechanic in the 90's and what was said about the Ford reman engine or new is a good point.It used to be they gave a better warranty if they installed it,I would assume that is still true. The problem is when the engine maker or the installer screw things up and won't...

OK,find the low pressure switch and jump it with the A/C on,engine running,if the wiring is good and you have power the clutch will engage even with no freon.Just pull the plug from the low pressure switch and jump the connector,that will at least give you a starting point.:D

Not really ,you are changing the RPM that the vehicle is at at speed,say stock is 2000 rpm at 65 and you geared up.You would get a little better response because your RPM's would be higher,say 2300 now at 65. My 69 Road runner was geared at 4.10 and would do 115 mph at 5500 rpm.But it would snap...

I drove my 94 4x4 xlt from WVA to MN ,1000 miles and got 18.5 at 70mph all the way here,I had just bought it and had not tuned it,dead stock.That was in Nov 07.It has 120,000 miles on it and 235/75/15 Goodyear Wranglers on it. :D

As I said in another post,if you are going to pound the honeycomb out of the cat,be careful that dust is a mean and poisonous thing,don't breath the dust. :eek:

Another good choice is BG 44K,hard to find but really good stuff,I used it in a jeep that was running like crap,4.0 185,000 miles,ran it down the interstate at 70+ and wow,what a difference in power,idle and mpg.Well worth it. :D

The big thing is to label everything,I did this for a living and got good at remembering where things went,but not any more,don't mix up your pushrods,take a piece of cardboard and label it front with an arrow and then just poke the pushrod thru it and all is in order,take pictures if you can...

Just a side note fellas,the inside of the cat is deathly poison,the dust I mean,heavy metal poisoning,don't breath that crap if you clean out the cat.:eek: I get 18.5 mpg with my 94,4.0,auto

I have a 94 and I just run 235/75/15's on it.They are easy to find and in all price ranges ,I run goodyears on mine because it had 2 almost new ones on it when I bought it.Simple and easy,thats the way I like things :D

It's used a lot in race cars and big rigs,it uses no water at all and works really well lowering temps and raising the boiling point with only a 5 psi cap.Supposed to last a long time,up to 500,000 miles in a big rig,but like I said,real expensive.I guess it works out over the life of it,google...

Just as a side note,I am getting 18.5 mpg at 70 mph on the interstate in my 94 Explorer with 4.0,120,000 miles,auto. Drove it from WV to MN,1000+ miles. I bought it in WV to drive up here and have never tuned it ,my 2 cents :D

I was just wondering if you ever heard of Evans NPG coolent,no water involved,it works much the same as the water wetter,just replaces the glycol coolent and water.Bloody expensive however. :D