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Hello, I did my front brakes a few weeks ago. The rear pads looked fine, so I didn't do them this time. I really should have pulled the brakes appart instead of just measuring the pads because there was a major issue. Both sides had frozen slide pins and one side had pretty badly warped rotor...

I decided to start again with the bleed. I did all the wheels in order again. This time I used the old fashioned method of a glass jar with about 1" of brake fluid in it and a simple hose connected to the bleeder. I put the other end of the hose in the jar below the level of the fluid and opened...

I did the drivers rear yesterday. Before I started taking it apart, I took the caliper out of the box and compared it to the one that was still on the hub. I took note of the position of the bleeder, and it didn't match the one I had so I put it back in the box and took out the other one. The...

Not as far as I can tell. I would have expected to have had the same bleeding problem on the drivers side as well if I had done that. LMHmedchem

Is there a write up on how to do that? I more or less understand what is happening but it would be nice to have some instructions. I don't understand why I can't get much brake fluid to come out the bleeder. On the drivers side, I was able to get the tubing solidly filled for 6" or so, and then...

Hello, One of my rear calipers was frozen up pretty good and I decided to just replace both calipers along with the pads and rotors. The repair went fairly smoothly. I put a plug in the brake hose after I removed the banjo bolt. The plug didn't fit very well and the hose still dripped a bit...

I have read that brake fluid can absorb water. This increases the total volume of fluid in the brake system resulting in caliper pistons that cannot retract quite all the way. Coupled with aftermarket brake pads that are sometime thicker than the original equipment, this can result in pads...

It seems as if the constant rubbing would cause the pad to quickly wear down and the problem would resolve itself. Is that not true? LMHmedchem

The scraping sound became more constant so I took the wheel off again and did some checking. After putting the trans in neutral and spinning the wheel, I hear a scraping sound. It is not too bad but I think it is louder than it should be from just the parking brake drag. 1. The backing...

Just to clarify, by "intermittent sound" I do not mean a repetitive sound that is related to speed such as would be the case with a warped rotor that was rubbing in one spot only. That sound would be heard once per revolution and increase with speed. The sound I am hearing is a soft (low volume)...

Hello, I helped a friend replace the rear brakes on their Mountaineer. The parking brake hardware was in pieces, so we did the pads and rotors and the next day I got new parking brake shoes and a hardware kit to replace that as well. Everything went more or less as expected. I replaced the...

I find it surprising that a SKF hub and bearing assembly failed quickly. SKF usually makes very high quality parts. Are you sure it wasn't SKP? SKP makes more economy parts. I also don't see why a SKF hub assembly would have a Timken bearing. SKF is a Swedish manufacturer that mostly makes...

If you are going to keep the truck, make sure you use quality parts from a brand like Moog Problem Solver line, AC Delco Professional, or Motorcraft, etc. Others may suggest additional brands. I would stay away from kits as they are often made up from lower quality parts, even if the kit is from...

I have started a conversation with you, which I think is how you send a message. Let me know if that didn't work or there is some other method. LMHmedchem

Definitely get a second and third opinion from a reputable mechanic. It can be hard to find a reputable mechanic, so ask here if anyone happens to know someone in your area. Otherwise, ask people you trust and go to several places. Don't tell the places you go to what was "found" by other shops...

The hoses are secured in three places over the cross member. One is where the hoses connect to the rack, one is in the middle as I described, and the third is at the far end of the cross member. The hoses are heavy when filled with fluid, so if they are not properly secured I think you risk...

I think that the bracket you are referring to attaches onto another bracket that holds a wiring harness that runs under the oil filter. There is a metal bracket that is attached to lower front just above the center of the cross member. That bracket goes back and crimps the wire harness. There...

You can look at carid.com or summitracing.com. They have allot of various kinds of universal fit seats listed there. There are some brands like Recaro that can cost thousands for each seat, but there are also quite a few that are in the $250-$450 range. Most of the seats have a diagram with seat...

This site used to provide allot of information based on your VIN. https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do This now only provides some summary information but you may be able to get more if you create an account and login. This is where I got my build date and it is important to know...

You need to check the manufacture date of your truck. The parts listed on RockAuto for a 2005 4.6L say "July 18, 2005 and older". All of the parts seem to say that so you should check to make sure. LMHmedchem

The big question is about what engine you have. If you have the 4.0L v6, then you have to be more concerned about the timing chains because they can fail without warning. The chains are expensive to replace if you can't do it yourself since the engine needs to be removed. If you have the 4.6L...

Yes, I do, the XLT. The bottom bolts are pretty deep in the formed bottom of the tray, so there may have just been some dirt or something hiding them. There are 4 holes in the tray and matching tapped holds in the body. You can see the holes in the picture here of a replacement part, DORMAN...

There are 4 bolts. There are two on the side between the battery and the body and also two on the bottom under the battery. All of these are bolts that are threaded into the body. I don't see anything else holding the tray down. You will have to remove the long hold down bolt and remove the...

I removed my battery tray a while ago because the hold down bolt broke off and I need to figure out how to get the broken off part of the bolt out of the metal clip at the base. For now it is just sitting there with the weight of the battery holding it down. I don't remember anything other than...

Always make sure that the part I linked to is the correct part for your truck. Suspension parts can vary some and you will be annoyed if you have to return something. Check and double check. The SKF knuckle/bearing/hub setups are a great deal right now. That is a very high quality part and you...

Be careful with the Lucas PS stop leak. You can end up blowing out the seals on your pump if you're not careful. I would have started with quite a bit less than 12oz. Did you use a vacuum pump to bleed air out of the system when you installed the new pump? If the whine comes back, you could...

SKF also makes a good rear knuckle with hub and bearing. SKF BR935002LK Rear Right Knuckle Assembly ($150 w/rebate) SKF BR935001LK Left Rear Knuckle Assembly ($160 w/rebate) these cost a bit less than Moog, especially since there is a rebate at the moment. Figure another $10-$15 for shipping...

Have you cleaned your throttle body lately? A dirty throttle body is a possible cause of rough idle. If you haven't done it in a while, it's a good idea to give it a good clean and to also clean you mas airflow sensor at the same time. It's very important to use a specific throttle body...

This is not the case for the rear bearings. The rear bearing and hub are separate parts. The bearing is pressed into the knuckle and there is a snap ring retainer clip. After the bearing is installed, the hub is pressed into the bearing. If you look at the picture of the parts below, you can see...

Here is a picture, you can see the lip of the steel cylinder sitting inside the cast iron caliper. The piece of steel goes all the way down to the rim above the oil seal. It is a cylinder that is inside the cast iron caliper and has a flange on the top where it sticks out above the cast iron...

This picture looks exactly like mine, CENTRIC 14365012 Front Caliper Repair Kit On mine, there is a raised metal lip at the edge of the hole where the piston inserts to the caliper body. The top of the boot fits over this lip, or else the metal lip is actually part of the boot. I can't really...

The pistons came out easily enough with compressed air and they look like they are in very good shape. I have not had any luck getting the piston seal boots off. I know that some versions use a snap ring to secure the boots but I don't see any sign of a ring here on the inside or outside. The...

For just a rear bearing (without the hub), ~$50 is the range for the better quality bearings, SKF GRW259 Rear Wheel Bearing ($42) TIMKEN 516008 Rear Wheel Bearing ($48) MOTORCRAFT BRG4 Rear Wheel Bearing ($52) NATIONAL 516008 Rear Wheel Bearing ($53) ***these prices do not include shipping, so...

The $260 number with parts would be a great price around here. I think I paid $400 the last time I paid a mechanic to do it. They had to send the knuckle out to have the bearing pressed, so that just added to the cost. Just make sure you know exactly what bearing is going in there (Timkin, SKF...

Thanks for the info, a few questions, How do you get pistons out in the first place? I have collapsed them back into the caliper body as I normally would before putting the caliper back on. Do I need to hook them back up to the pressure hose and pump the brakes until they come out? What...

Some people put a bit on the electrical connector as well.

I always use some dielectric grease on the boots when I change out the plugs. I put a little blob in the end of the boot and wipe it around the rim with a small flat-head screwdriver. I turn the boot back and forth some while pressing it down over the plug. This makes a watertight seal. I assume...

I believe that you have to use Windows 10 in order for it to work properly (to make sure you have the most recent security updates). I find this very annoying. What should Ford care what OS you use? I don't know if there are any work-arounds or not. I will try later with the latest Firefox out...

There are a number of sites where you can enter your VIN and they will give you all of the information about your specific vehicle. This is one I have used before, FordEtis LMHmedchem

If this is a v8, then the issue is most likely that the wire to the oil pressure sensor has been worn though. See this thread here by KC10Chief, Have a 4.6L? Here's a problem I bet you all have... This is a bit of a pain to fix since the wiring harness needs to be disconnected in several...