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Thanks for the help! It needs an alignment now anyway so after the new ball joints and TT I figure I'll kill 2 birds with one alignment. I have one of these coming next week. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JKQDQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So the bumper wont be a...

My 98 will get a SAS ( already have the parts) one of these years but for now I'd like to get some 32'' tires under it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L61YKPM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AJ31HIXQJ82R Being new to any type of independent suspension my question is do I even...

People got tired of drilling into there roofs and eventually cracking the sheet metal. My buddy has these on a few trucks and they all crack the roof sooner or later.

Are you talking about a sun roof? If so I have a factory unit I do not want and would sell it cheap.

Plug wires.

I don't remember anything about them having noisy vale trains but since the covers have a 1992 part number and the cobra was made in 1993 I kinda doubt they had anything to do with it.

Yours must of had those ribs in the sides. If you are old like me and remember the early 1990s when Ford first brought out the Mustang Cobra, it came with roller rockers. Well the factory changed the cast aluminum valve cover to work with the roller rockers. I have a set of F2 (1992) Part...

The time it took to do all that you could have just dropped the tank and not had a hole to fix in your floor.

As far as fitting, they will fit fine. It's probably the the sparkplug angle difference between the 2 style heads that might be a problem. I have no idea on the subject as far as the plug angles but they will bolt on and the ports will line up just fine.

I had mine open and they are very simple to work on. My case had the dreaded groove worn in it by the pump like most do so look out for that.

If you find that your AWD is shot (and was the reason he took all those other parts off) I HIGHLY recommend you get a 4406 manual T-case for your hunting beater. I threw one in my beater and it is wonderful, more MPG, easy to use, few parts to worry about, just pull the lever and have true 4x4...

You would think but like I said above it took mine a year to show me anything.

I had this problem with my 79 bronco. Turns out after filling the MC every 2 weeks for a year the problem finally showed it's ugly face. The hard line that runs back the frame to the rear brakes was leaking. Not in one spot but the whole thing was weeping along the entire length never making a...

The AC compressor pulley spins freely when not in use so you won't gain anything with an idler since that's what it is already. What you will gain is a cleaner looking engine and more room to work on stuff with the AC out, That's it.

Normal but could be less.

I only had one clone key for my 98 EX so I had to go to Ford since no one around here would/could make me new keys off of it. I had 3 made from Ford and it was around $80 If I'm remembering right.

Not to mention that some times the replacement pulleys are plastic and the originals are steel. I'd rather replace a bearing in a steel pulley any day then replace it with plastic.

I finally Mounted my front two hooks. I used a 3/8 thick Steel spacer between the frame and the hooks since I had a small plate of it and I cut them 2'' wide. I have a small hobby machine shop so cutting the 3/8'' plate steel was easy then I used my transfer punches to mark where I drilled...

I thought I read on here about the 3rd gen evap stuff fitting our 2nd gens and that they are plastic and wont rust out and leak like ours. If so I'd junk yard one of those units hoses and all.

Thanks for this thread! I just got back from the JY and I did find 4 just like yours for $5 each.

Yeah, It seemed on the threads I seen that you just bend it and your good. Mine just needed cut and rewelded to be clean and strong.

I agree with your number one and I thought number two was a known thing. Number three just can't be helped sometimes. Glad your about done, your going to love it!

If they are different, which one fits up front? Any thing to look for when junk yarding for hooks? From what you said it seems some only have one bolt and some years have 2?

95 Mustangs do.

Take out the block drain plugs. There are 2 of these, one at the rear lower corner of the block just above the oil pan gasket. This will drain the block and with the rad drained it will be empty, but you could run water in the T stat hole to flush the block with the plugs out. EDIT...... I'm...

Please don't forget to tell us what fixed your ride.

This is the internet, we can only go by what someone says. I have rebuilt (since apparently this matters) over 20 8.8 rears a dozen 9'' and a handful of Danas of different sizes. I will stand by what I said., you will not hear a ''really loud grinding noise'' from lack of friction modifier.

He called it ''a really loud grinding noise'' that is not even close to having no additive in your gear oil. Have you ever rebuilt a LS and not put any additive in? One thing you will not hear is a really loud grinding sound.

It's ''run'' by cable.

If your worried about dragging your chassis then I think you answered your own question. Suspension lift to raise the chassis and tires to raise the axles.

I think your misunderstanding what the side shims do or what happens when you add more. I think you guys think the side shims are there to adjust how close your axle is to the center pin.....not so. Like I said, I fool with those shims all the time and I can't recall ever needing to grind an...

By the way guys its SWIGIN not SWIGEN. The ones in your link are for an 8'' rear not a 8.8. I have done so many 8.8 rears that I have an endless supply of these shims. Guys bring me all the parts they want installed and I keep the extra parts. I see kits like this...

I had this happen to me on my old Bronco with a 9'' rear. In my case it was the axle bearings but on a 8.8 you need to take the cover off and deal with the carrier some what to get the axles out so make sure you look around while your in there and check everything out.

Don't forget that when you change the camber that you also are changing the toe at the same time.

I have never seen a rear with no shim under the side gear. You can put as many as you want under each as long as you can get it to go together. I do this to add preload and even an open rear can benefit from some extra side gear preload. I do this to make the LS more locker like if that makes...

I have not done this yet but I will as soon as I do my SAS. It would be nice to see how different people have done it before attaching. But I assume you would want to use a whizzer (cutoff wheel) and cut just below you final height so you could roll the edge but what do I know.

The problem is toe adjustment. Mine does it too but i'm holding off till I do my SAS and ditch all that independent crap...lol

The end clearance of the axle to the center pin is no big deal as long as it has some. I bought new Moser racing axles for the 8.8 in my Mustang and the part that broke off of yours was too thick to let the center pin go in. I called Moser and they tell me to just grind some off each axle till...

You are fine doing like you said in your first post. The only reason to remove the pinion would be to see if the bearing races still look good or to replace the pinion seal. Other then that just install your tone ring and ring gear I would use new carrier bearings and try the factory shims...

What are you going to do to the back to make it level again? It seems to sit level in the last side shot I saw.