Search results

Ok guys, Lower ball joint fixed the issue. I found that it was an easy job. Sledge hammer definately required to get the old ball joint out. I was able to use a small hammer to tap the new joint in. I put the old castle nut on the end of the ball joint to protect the threads and jacked up...

Lets wait and see if another insulator cracks. Lets hope your good to go for another couple of years. I wouldn't do a thing unless you start chewing thru plugs. Its good news that the compression up on the cylinder. Piston rings, and valves are working as they should.

The symptom I had with my cracked head was this: Any time I stepped on the gas for 15-30 seconds, I'd develop a miss in #3. I'd pull #3, and the porcelin would be cracked. Im certain that when I would step on the gas, the motor would suck coolant in to cyl #3, and destroy my spark plug...

:dead: RIP. Another explorer down for the count. Never good news.

Reman injectors 6 remans, flow matched $130.00 on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330620861130&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:1123 For $130.00, its not worth taking the upper intake/egr off just to move injectors around to see if the fault moves with the injector. I just...

Thanks Turdle! As I lay awake last night thinking about it, I thought I'd pull the motor apart and switch injector locations. Sure would be nice if I had a spare fuel injector. Sad part is, I changed them about 2 years ago, and threw the old ones out about 6 months ago. Figures.

Im looking for help here as all threeads pertaining to this kind of trail off without any real answers. I was sitting at a stop light, and my motor started shaking. Higher rpm's seem to be fine. Check ingine pops up. My reader gave me P0303, Cyl 3 misfire. Ok, thats the cylinder on the...

Id be concerned about piston/connecting rod/connecting rod bearings also. Sorry. This is not good news

Congratulations Brandon! Im still fighting with mine. Its always at least 1 thing I'm dealing with. I have a lower ball joint with at least 1/4 inch up/down play in it that needs to be tackled right away, and now my motor started running rough at idle. Im jealous you have yours working as it...

I checked my front brakes, they are tight. Im betting you guys are exactly right. I just jacked up my passenger side (Floor jack on lower control arm, tire still on). I then put a crow-bar in between the floor and the bottom of the tire and pulled the tire up. I bet I have close to 1/4...

I hate to say this, but I kept cracking insulators on my spark plugs, and it turned out to be a cracked head allowing coolant to get sucked in to the combustion chamber cracking insulators. If this happens again on #3 you know what the issue is.

When I did mine, I broke a bolt off that mounts the canister. I just used a nut and bolt to re-secure the canister after.

Can you have the oil checked easily? That would be an excellent indicator as to where the coolant is going.

Im guessing(and hoping) your lower intake manifold is leaking to the inside. I have not read anywhere here of these blocks cracking or warping. The bottom ends seem pretty rock solid.

Don't give up yet. I did new heads on mine this summer, and so far, no coolant loss and my motor's strong. Betsy98Sport has a handle on things, lets see what he finds. It could easily be something other than the motor. A pressure test will hopefully show that the issue is something easy...

does our generation Ex's have radius arm's? This noise comes and goes, but it was really loud with my window down today. Hopefully Tomorrow I'll be able to get the front on jackstands and look around. Even though the oise can be really loud, it comes and goes, and I don't feel any ill...

What are the odds of you seeing if the valve was closed with the cam removed?

This whole thing sounds odd. If he has 17 pairs of the Timkins, Id think the parts guy would be trying to get rid of them. If they are Timkins, and at that price. I'd buy a pair. Can't be that expensive to ship to Winnipeg.

Ok, How can this be that the intake valves never close at all? Guys, this does not make sense to me. Even if the timing were off, you would see the valves close at some point in the rotation of the motor. Cam lobes? Whats going on here?

As you crank the motor over do the intake valves close at any time? If they do, then your valve train timing has to be off. your valve train needs to be re-timed.

What motor is this? 4.0 sohc? I really do find it hard to believe that its normal for a valve not to close all the way during compression.

Its never quite that easy Im afraid. There are two 4.0 motors out there for those model years. There's the 4.0 OHV (VIN X), and the 4.0 SOHC. I would guess you have the 4.0 SOHC, as the OHV doesn't blow up. You better check what you have for sure. Also, there are differences such as EGR...

He has to be talking about the remote on his keychain??? I think a locksmith can make a key. Dealer might be able to do this by VIN.

You have the 'E'. I have the OHV motor, and its the 'X'.

Drop right in? That would be another 4.0 v6. Im betting you have the overhead cam timing chain issues. The ohv is an older design with pushrods, and is pretty hard to blow up.

Im betting these will make for a very harsh ride. You will have the springs + torsion bars. Lots of 'spring' not allowing the suspension to comress very easily. Subscribing, seeing what others with more experience say.

I have the sensatrac's now. They are fine for road use. My old shocks har 260,000km on them, so even the senssatrac's firmed up my ride. I will say that now I can drive over washboards without the rear end kicking out on me. Probably any new shock is way better than a worn out shock.

Hey, redneckin, I was quite entertained by your post of the hockey pucks. I didn't take you that literally. If I were to use hockey pucks, I'd ask for them. Im betting you would also. I found your response quite funny, and did not take you as being serious. Maybe you were, maybe you...

Think this could be it? Could possibly be fuel pump. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190260

Hows your coolant levels? Finding your coolant resevoir needs to be filled from time to time?

I'm impressed! I guess you had nothing to loose by trying ayway. Congratulations.

yup, oil pan won't come off unless motor comes up. sorry

Celly, this raises an interesting point. When I had my abs light on, and the issue was my rear speed sensor, my spedometer still worked fine. This is something I should know, but dont. If I were to change tire sizes. How would I re-calibrate my spedometer? I don't see anyone taking about...

Yup, Im feeling for you too Brandon. Ive been living constant issues also. Im not doing anything other than fixing broken stuff for a while. It seems with our aging trucks that anything touched breaks. I just replaced my rad. Hopefully when I get my front end noises sorted out I'll be ok...

Coincidental. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure abs stuff is on a completely different computer brain from check engine stuff.

Can you go to a auto bone yard? side note: I hve a fuel filter in my garage waiting for me to change it. Maybe I'll leave the whole thing alone untill I have a fuel releated issue.

I know there are different mnifolds, but thought the only difference was coolant ports.

Thanks for the followup. Ouch

Rear dif sensor +1 I had abs light on and took a stab in the dark, and everyone here was correct. Sensor is quick and easy to change. Deffinately start there in your troubleshooting.

Yup, I understand how difficult it can be to give solid information to everyone else when you are in the middle of a problem, but we must be clear. Since your motor turns over fine, but will no longer start after changing the gas filter, I'd say go for the filter. As gavin said, check fuel...