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I’m lazy. I’d chew a whole in the floor with a nibbler and replace it from above. Although if that gas is two years old, it’s gotta come out. What kind of pump did you buy?

You don’t need much to make it capable. Shackles a TT and some 31s go a long way.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/v8-swap-thread-discussion.422934/

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/so-you-want-to-convert-to-a-5-0-5l-swap-for-dummies.422796/

Hey at least the vast majority of the threads I start and things I post aren’t entirely off base, and completely wrong. ;) Roof plastic you need a police hookup for? :snicker:

You’re gonna want to get it out of an Explorer. Best bet would be a 99-01. A whole donor vehicle is best since you’ll need wiring, transmission, transfer case, and the like.

Sounds like chain slap to me. Pull a few O2 sensors. If it’s a bad cat it’ll blow honeycomb through the hole. agree with Donald’s. Don’t drive that at all.

I’d be willing to bet there is a way to make it announce that it’s locked.

Yeah, because I can’t follow the basic logic of your amazing underwhelmingly engineered vehicle because I drive an older Mounty. GREAT point. This is the kind of stuff people revert to when they have absolutely no points left. This is a public forum. I’ll post anywhere I please. Got a...

How are they not black and white? It specifically calls out how the circuit must operate. I’m not speaking to the opinion that these regulations SHOULD be in place.

You are the one that posted a lame, unhumorous drivel as a dig. As for me cracking under any pressure ( I think that’s what your feeble attempt was alluding too) you clearly know nothing about me.

What....... let’s try something intelligible next time, eh? And YET AGAIN. I’m talking about regulations. Say it with me REAL slow. R-e-g-u-l-a-t-I-o-n. Following along yet? Regulations are black and white as to WHY it can’t stay off.

I’m talking about the federal regulations, which are absolute.

There’s nothing to be drawn into. It’s black and white.

It wouldn’t be cost effective to retrofit.

It CAN’T be an opt in opt out feature. It’s used to boost fleet mileage with the EPA in which the standard is that it has to be a momentary, non-latching circuit. Less people have a problem than you’d believe. People like to complain about things. Just like it’s easier to find negative...

AWD light? You must mean 4wd lights. Did you check the fuse box under the hood?

Rerun mine? What’s that supposed to mean?

Start with a better vehicle. This is NOT something you do to save money.

I never said 4-5 hours for someone who isn’t a seasoned mechanic. I’m confident in the 5 hour time frame. Granted, some stuff will get cut.

Towing 5,000 pounds is a good way to smoke the trans in a v6. I’ve been there.

Naw, the cases are pretty basic. Easy to drop as well. Your prop shaft is probably due for a rebuild if the case is worn out.

Not everyone has the means to haul a vehicle several hours. And, then, you gotta store it. Also, I’d never trust driving a junker vehicle several hours. There’s a reason it’s not currently being driven, most likely.

Ahhh, so your lucky enough to have a V8 at least. 3 main options for the transfer case. Used, rebuilt, and swap in a BW4406 using F150/Expedition parts. Pretty common swap, but where I live the AWD is preferable to me.

You’ve found a great resource for it. Welcome to the site. What’s your biggest issues?

If it takes an experienced mechanic 12 hours to pull a 5.0 in his shop he had better have ran into several issues. I’ve never done it myself, (5.0 removal) but I’d bet that I could do it in 4-5 by myself.

I didn’t comment on any of your equipment being garbage. Easy there, No one said anything about your rights :laugh:

Are you sure it’s the correct harness? When it first didn’t work, did you try any differences in how you wired it, or did you only swap in different head units?

There’s a lot more to it than the tuning. You can tune garbage all you want. If it’s garbage, it’ll put out garbage.

I wouldn’t mix different subs, amps and sizes.

Fair enough. But if they met the criteria, I’d think it’d surely be touted.

Motorcraft filters are good, but it’s extremely doubtful they are the best.

Do they have the DOT branded on them? Seems highly suspicious one of the things listed ISN’T DOT approval.

If you’re in 4wd and only the rear is spinning you almost certainly have a t case issue. If you do a search for “brown wire mod” you can put the truck in high and test this brown wire for 12vdc. This is what locks the clutch inside the t case and drives the front axle.

Naw, this has never been the case. Synthetic and Dino oil play just fine together.

Cross pin. Unfortunately, you’ll need to extract it like any other broken “bolt”.

I understand what you’re working on. I’m saying the information about them needing the CVs is related to the second gens which MANY have converted. There is FAR more information about modding the Second Gens, unfortunately.

Sounds like a good start.

Is it hanging up in the track? I had an issue where my first Explorer would shudder going down, and it eventually popped the epoxied clip off the window. After re-securing it I cleaned the window tracks with lots of brake clean (not the most advisable. Lots of plastic in there to eat) and...

If there’s no transfer case, I’m sure you will have blinking 4wd lights at the minimum. If it’s polling a bunch of stuff that isn’t there, I’m sure it’s not going to be happy.