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You can add a second key even if you've lost one. You'll need an ELM327 module and FORSCAN, but that combination will allow you to delete all existing PATS keys from the computer and add new ones in. The whole process takes about ten minutes.

As long as the cylinder comes with valid PATS keys, you can program them in yourself using FORSCAN and not have to work with a locksmith or dealer.

I went back through everything again and this time everything is lining up any shifting perfectly. For future reference, mine was 5.25" center to center between the holes and works correctly. Somehow I was installing it with the case slightly out of the 2wd position. Getting it in to place by...

Does anybody have the correct hole to hole distances for the link arms? Something is clearly incorrect on mine. I'll post some pictures in a bit.

This is the one I've used with Forscan and Windows 10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUALTSX

If you're doing electric shift, keep in mind that there are two versions. The basic electronic shift 4wd unit that's like the Ranger part time cases where you have a 2HI/4HI/4LOW switch on the dash, and a Control Trac unit that has a 4AUTO/4HI/4LOW setting. I'm not sure which have been adapted...

You probably do have a driveline shop nearby somewhere. It took me a while to locate, but in my area I ultimately found two within about a 20 minute drive. The 4406 donor F150 should have shafts that you can use, but you'll have to have at least the rear shaft cut to fit. Depending on year...

You can buy wireless keypads that look and function identically without having to deal with all the wiring of the factory units.

Does the fuel pump actually care that it's returnless? My impression of the returnless system was that it was a separate return unit integrated into the assembly that just diverted fuel back to the tank.

Won't hurt to wait to the next one

Your stock radio is a very tiny amount away from being a double DIN, but you can install a double DIN with very simple modification as Don suggested above. No big deal at all to adjust the bezel to fit a double DIN bracket, then just pick out whatever radio you want.

Do you have a picture of how you installed the contour fans? I've got a set floating in the basement and I keep delaying on the install because I don't have a clear concept for how to make it fit neatly.

You don't need to remove the plugs or touch the belt drive to just test cranking it over.

Compressor isn't engaging either because the pressure is too low or too high. Get a real set of gauges on it .

I may have misunderstood, but it sounded like he'd tried two batteries.

If it helps, the 248k 5.0 I tore apart looked nothing like that. Wide open and flowing well

You can definitely remove the fan without touching the radiator. Just unbolt the shroud and remove the shroud and fan at the same time. Not sure on the crank bolt size - it's 24mm on the 5.0, but I can't remember for the rest.

Woah!

Sounds good. I'm working on a few options so I'll let you know. Thanks!

You may find this thread helpful for the '99. The definative '96 - '01 PATS, Fuel Pressure, Injector, and Wiring Harness Thread

It's a long drive from VA, but I'll gladly throw you a few dollars to put it in the mail if you're willing!

Would you be willing to part with the shift cable bracket from one of them? I just need the piece that bolts to the side of the transmission and holds the cable in place. Cable Bracket

One thing I would check at this point is the coolant temperature sensor for the ecm. I think you can find the electrical measurement vs temperature charts online so you can just put it in a pot of hot water and test it with a meter. If it's reading constantly cold, you could get similar...

I could see it for racing use, but no rational justification on the street.

There's an electric actuator in the door that pops the lock up and down. Common failure point, and pretty cheap online. Lots of Youtube videos to show the process of replacement.

Interesting I would have sworn some material had been removed as if it were modified to adjust weight. Edit - the five marks at the bottom are what I was referring to.

Curiosity question - I just had the rotating assembly in the new 5.0 balanced. Clearly there was some machining done on the old balancer. If I were to install a new one, what if anything should I do to match it up with the rest of the balanced assembly?

That's correct, I was just responding to the 'M5ODR1 for V6's' bit.

R1 was also used behind the 2.3 liter 4 cylinder, for what it's worth. Essentially the R1 is a smaller transmission though. Not a generational thing at all, they're just built for different applications.

M5ODR1 or M5ODHD are Ranger /Explorer 5 speed transmissions and you'd need one from a 2.9 or 4.0 to bolt up to a 4.0. For a 5.0,you'd need an M5ODR2. If memory serves, you'd need one from a 4.2, but I don't remember why that engine version is required. 4.9,5.0, and 351W/351C all used the same...

No, definitely not..

The 4.0 has a different bolt pattern from the 4.9/5.0. If it's a 4.0 engine, you'd need a 2.9 or 4.0 5 speed from a Ranger, or a 4.0 transmission from an Explorer.

I might be interested in the output shaft and 4x4 extension housing.

You should be able to insert something between the mount and mounting plate to prevent it from falling down. As I recall, I used small 2x4 blocks years ago when doing an F150 5.0 oil pan in similar fashion.

Check the fluid on the transfer case next.

For what it's worth, I have a 2wd 4R70W and matching driveshaft available. It's a bit of a drive for you but they definitely work (I drove the truck an hour back to my house when purchasing it as a donor.

Curious to see how you do with cutting them. I never got to a method I was satisfied with the last time I tried

What would the symptoms be of a blown viscous coupling in the 4404 vs a total 4R failure?

I can't understand how a crank position sensor would cause a click... Dead spot on the starter motor was my first thought as well.

I don't really have one good dedicated thread, unfortunately. It's mostly been a collection of individual questions asked as needed and piggy backing off of other's well documented threads. At this point the engine is assembled and I'm now trying to remember how all the external bits fit into...