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Sorry - to clarify I'm actually working with a '99 Ranger. In the middle of swapping the 5.0 from a '99 Explorer into it. The Ranger has the stock PVH hubs in place.

Conveniently I already have the 99 Ranger parts on the truck, so the cost isn't quite as high.

Any problem with them to date? I've read so much back and forth that it's been hard to decide, but the front driveshaft concerns are pushing me toward using them.

Adding a photo for anybody that finds this thread later... If there's any question about whether you've gotten all the bolts, check this photo. The three that are already on the water pump are -only- attaching the pump to the timing cover. All of the rest go through the cover and into the block.

What are you doing for manual hubs - the AVM's?

You're absolutely sure about there being no vacuum leaks?

The pump should be fine. They're both returnless systems, and as I understand it each use PWM to regulate pressure.

What year/engine Navigator were they from? Alternatively, do you have a part number for the injectors?

Also, are they 24# injectors at 40psi or the 65+ that you're seeing on the returnless system you've got in the '01? They may in fact be much larger than the 24# rating at that pressure.

At the time it seemed like an unconscionable amount of money, but the last time I'd had any machine work done was around 2001, so I may have just been out of touch. This is a local shop with a great reputation, so no regrets.

My 5.0 machine bill from a couple of months ago was: $138 Valve job $83 Surface heads $78 Pressure check heads $78 Vat block $46 Install cam bearings $46 Install freeze plugs $69 Hone block (I just had a .003 taper so no bore required) $46 Check align bore $142 Grind the crank and rods...

The shop that's doing the other machine work can't handle the crank?

Good reminder to check mine carefully before installing it. I'm still assembling the 5.0 for my Ranger.

What eBay coupon did you use?

Spending money to do preventive maintenance or fix things that are actually broken might save you money in the long run. Outside of that...

That's all well and good, but it's totally contrary to your stated goal of saving money overall. If your actual goal is to create the highest fuel efficiency Explorer you can, that's a very different goal.

Agreed. Consider the amount of money you'll spend on upgrades or an engine swap, and then do the math on the realistic difference in fuel economy and how long it would take to pay for itself. I think you'd be very lucky to break even in a decade on most swaps. Something like a TDI diesel...

Sealed Power makes a set for about $25 - KT3163SA1. Melling's is a similar price for 3163SB.

I grabbed the 35-510-8 grind for mine, it's a 208/216 cam with .533 and .544 lift. Hoping it works well in the Ranger for low to midrange.

Holy smokes, blown. All he's asked for (repeatedly) is a basic walk through of what you use and the costs. You're the one attacking him instead of just coming to the table with information. Man up.

I was thinking the same thing.

You'll need an actual manual shift case if you want to shift it that way.

You could also consider grabbing a used 130amp unit. I think I paid $30 shipped for mine on eBay.

The Park/neutral issue sounds like a misaligned transmission range sensor. As I recall there are youtube videos with a clear explanation of the process. The short version is that there is an inner and outer ring on the sensor that each have marked lines. The adjustment is simply loosening the...

I'd honestly considered just cutting the shroud apart and rotating the fan assembly about 45 degrees, then finding a way to extend what was left to cover the radiator. Never really wrapped my head around a good structurally sound way to do so (short of learning to mold fiberglass).

Interesting. So you left the entire existing plastic shroud intact, rotated it 90*, and used the aluminum to hold it in place. Did you extend it to the sides to cover the rest of the radiator?

How did you set up the shroud with the dual fan Cougar setup? I've got a similar Contour fan in the basement that's going in the Explorer but don't have a plan for the shroud yet. Thanks!

Forscan will definitely allow you to clear out existing keys and program new ones. I bought my 99 Ranger with a single key. Purchased a second strattec key on ebay, had it cut locally, then used Forscan to get both keys into the system.

They don't last longer in real world usage. I suspect you'd be lucky to break two years. I've got smaller LiFe battery like that in the jogging stroller. It's got plenty of power to start a motorcycle (the original reason I bought it) but they're finicky on recharging and don't like being...

Correct me if I'm wrong here... Pump fires automatically for two seconds when key is cycled as a priming pulse. Pump runs continuously when engine movement is detected (crank or cam position sensor I think?) Would it make sense that the priming pulse is loading the system with enough fuel...

Did the problem start after the pump and filter change, or is that why you changed them?

Any chance you could post pictures of the correct routing?

Are there no differences in engine crossmember, etc between 2wd and 4wd?

Think through that again. At a given road speed, transmission output shaft speed will be 2.48 times higher in low range than in high range.

To my knowledge, RBV's have always used the transmission for 2wd and transfer case for 4wd (prior to switching to the rear axle, that is). If you did it in the trans on a 4wd, how would you get speed data in low range?

You can get rebuild kits online for $15-20 that have the o-rings, pintle caps, and filters. You'll just need to make sure you get the right set for your injector type. IIRC, the returnless 5.0's use EV6, 3.0 uses EV1, etc. Basically just find a picture online of the Bosch injector types and...

Apparently some years of Explorer do have the AWD badge. I saw this the other day driving through town:

Condenser was $52.50 (Amazon), new compressor was $132 at Rock Auto including receiver/dryer, orifice tube, and a seal kit.

I actually ordered a replacement 5.0 condenser already since I'm having to install a new compressor (donor engine's compressor was locked up tight). A little late to undo that purchase unfortunately. Hopefully the clips don't give me too much trouble in the future.

I think the factory SOHC rod bolts are TTY? Sounds like you can use SBF rod bolts. Connecting rod bolts and nuts questions