Search results

Apologies in advance for bringing this thread back up after five months. I'm in the middle of swapping a '99 Explorer 5.0 into my '99 Ranger, so the engine is already out and getting some refreshing. I got a deal I couldn't refuse on the same cam that VR4 is running (CompCams XE258HR 35-510-8)...

They're not that rare. I ran across a few while finding my swap donor. Ended up buying one and a separate 4wd 4R70W transmission. If anybody needs something specific to a 2wd V8 Explorer, let me know.

Do you know if there are any TSB's for the later 4R70W's? I haven't done very well in looking that up.

Agreed. I have found one use for a lithium motorcycle battery - my kid's jogging stroller. Powers the headlights for a couple of hours at a time with no problem and doesn't add significant weight. For any normal use in a car or a bike, traditional batteries are the way to go. They'll last...

If you click the link associated with that image, it appears that 50B is your fuel pump relay.

What does your box look like?

The Forscan software that 96eb96 recommended works great. You can even reprogram your PATS keys with it if you're down to 1 (or clearing and starting with a new set of keys like I'll be doing with the V8 swap). Check out What's new for more info. The adapters are $10-20 at Amazon depending on...

To the best of my knowledge, there isn't anything other than some lunchbox locker options that fits up there. None of the e-locker choices fit from any reading I've done in the past.

Same here - I couldn't see replacing upper control arms without installing a camber kit at the same time.

The temperature and gauge behavior you're describing doesn't sound abnormal to me. If there is a problem causing your low fuel economy (other than the temperature, gearing, etc that you mentioned) I don't think it has anything to do with the cooling system.

Satisfying my curiosity here - what are you running that requires more than 130 amps?

Don - any update on your results with this? I'm about to start my engine swap and want to make the changes before installing everything. I'm not absolutely certain on the trans year as it's not in my hands yet, but I believe it's in the '99-01 range. Will update as soon as I can confirm. Thanks!

Nice score. For the price I paid for the donor and a separate transmission I definitely can't complain though.

Nice of Mercury to actually badge the Mountaineers with an AWD indication. As far as I've ever seen, the V8 Explorer's have nothing externally to distinguish whether they're AWD or 2WD.

Excellent! I'm always surprised by how many 2wd Explorer's and Mountaineers are out there. Just bought one as a parts donor on Sunday.

I hesitate to ask, but are you sure it's not a 2wd Mountaineer?

Awesome, thanks!

An Explorer or Ranger V6 will have a smaller (Borg Warner 1354) transfer case than the 4406 that you need. An F-150 is your only option for a manual shift case. If you want an electrically shifted case you may (not sure) be able to get one from an Expedition. My recollection is that all the...

I'm looking for a 4R70W for a 4wd V8 swap in my '99 Ranger. This one's available from a seller in the region: Can anyone visually confirm that it's a 4R70W (vs one of the V6 transmissions)? The seller indicates that it's from a 5.0, but he's a couple of hours away and I'd love to positively...

Best I found was $100 on ebay from a dealer. $112 isn't bad.

Is the speedometer calculation in the GEM or the ECU? I didn't realize the engine swap would throw the speedometer.

There's a photobucket picture plugin for most browsers. It will help you see the pictures in that thread that are missing.

99 Ranger.

No. Probably a good idea that I'll regret later.

Ruff stuff has a kit for $125. I just ordered that when it was 20% off. Perches, mounts, plates, u bolts, and nuts. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=88SS-31 I'm using HF stuff too. The $10 grinder has long since earned its keep on this project.

I'm surprised you're going through so many cutoff discs. The first one I broke out is still going after removing both spring perches and the shock mounts. Do you have a plan for cleaning the housing? I haven't hit on a good way to do that yet.

Pricing is still $789? Time to start seeing money aside in my budget.

Can you post a picture? My experience matches Eric's.

The system should maintain fuel pressure a lot longer than 24 hours. It's always a good idea to remove the relay and crank the engine to guarantee that everything is depressurized.

I haven't seen a definite answer to that, but it's the setup they use from the factory on the more powerful/heavier Mustangs (GT, GT500, Cobra). My suspicion is that it lasts longer under hard usage. There are some other discussions at this site and others that you can find with a search. No...

Ford motorsports sells a carbon fiber clutch kit. As I recall it was about $100-110. The part number M4700C comes to mind but I may have made that up. Lots of rebuild walk through pages online and YouTube videos.

How much would you like for the tan lid?

I've used OPT7 headlights in our Forester. The good news is that they produce tremendous light output and there's no real work involved in the conversion like you'd have to do with an HID swap. Unfortunately, they don't produce light the same way as a filament bulb so they aren't really...

Question regarding the key identifier... Is each legitimate PATS key assigned an identifier from the factory, and the computer simply stores the identifier it reads off each key during the programming cycle? If so, then are the clone keys actually a different type of key that some shops have...

Eh? This is not raising the body off the frame. You're adjusting the preload on the torsion springs, raising the suspension.

$100 for a dealer key isn't bad if you don't feel like working with Forscan. If you do, you can grab the PATS key on eBay for $10-15, then spend $2-4 having it cut locally. An appropriate OBD2 interface for Forscan is $10-30 depending on type and vendor. It's not complicated, but there are...

Agreed that we need to know if it's a crank/no start, or a no crank situation. That said, the OP indicated that there is no flashing anti-theft light. Without that, this does not appear to be a PATS related issue.

Sounds like a reasonable way to do it.

Yep. Time to come up with another explanation of why some work and others don't... By the way - how long is the driveshaft? I need to figure out if the one I've got in the garage is going to work when the time comes.

And outside of the safety factors, you certainly don't want or need the fuel pump running 24/7, burning it up and draining your battery.