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Then it sounds like you (also) have a problem there. But unrelated to the error the computer is reporting.

As 410 mentioned above, I also am unaware of any code for the computer to indicate any potential issues with an ignition switch. Spark ignition system, absolutely. But definitely not the switch.

For the love of all that is decent... Stop replacing things until you know what's wrong!!!

You're absolutely right. Sorry, i should have quoted the bit i was intending to respond to - just dealing with the harness pigtail.

Try these if you're uncomfortable with soldering: TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (150PCS)

The Mr Gasket p/n should be 6717. 3/8-24 flange nuts.

I bought a set on eBay as i recall.

No worries.

Stop throwing parts at this based on guesses. Complete sentences also make it much easier to understand exactly what you've done.

Hang on... Transmission fluid in the FPR?

What do you get for manifold vacuum?

Stop replacing parts. Clearly there's a root cause here, and throwing parts at it is just draining your wallet. So take a breath, and don't order -any- more parts until you know you're replacing a bad one. Honestly, what you're describing still sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Even if you've...

The OEM's didn't claim to test wheel horsepower. Before or after the 70's. The change was only from gross to net hp ratings - the newer numbers from the early 70's included an air cleaner, basic exhaust, and engine accessories.

Again - today's cars are absolutely not rated in wheel horsepower.

Brake horsepower doesn't mean at the physical brake by the wheel. It's a system of measuring useful power at the flywheel.

If you have access to forscan and a good USB/bluetooth OBD2 module, you can go through the programming procedure with that assuming that you have two good (unique) PATS keys. I don't know how you would verify that there's not a problem with the PATS receiver piece around the ignition tumbler...

Fascinating. I would swear I've never seen that before when removing the 5.0 from the Explorer before putting it into the Ranger.

What goes on that bracket? I don't have it installed on mine.

Sounds great, thanks again!

I'd love to work something out on the light grey spare you've got. Thanks!

Lower timing cover (for the starter wiring harness) is what it -looks- like to me, but why would it be included in a set of head bolts?

According to the reviews, the Dorman 912-046 cable is slightly longer than the stock '96 cable but fits just fine.

I don't think that's particularly likely - it's not like hood release cables break regularly.

Would that hold up for long term use on the center console lid? I'm using a replacement that's in great shape but it's the wrong color.

Stop. Throwing parts at this isn't going to fix the problem.

To be honest, I hated the step side until I owned one. Always thought it looked goofy and sacrificed valuable bed space. But with a bit of lift and larger tires, it makes it a lot easier to access all portions of the bed from one side. I'm pretty happy with it now.

I'm sorry to hear about your friend. There are no decent local mechanics outside of the dealer?

Over the weekend I drove up to Attica, Indiana for a TRS gathering at Badlands Off Road Park. My 7 year old and I put 1100 miles on it in three days and it never skipped a beat. Thanks again for all the help along the way!

If you're at that point, let someone else look at it.

A fuel pump wouldn't explain the loss of signal codes. It may very well be part of the problem, but there's more going on than that.

If the wiring is flawless and you're sure the CPS is installed properly, then 410Fortune's advice is where you need to be focused.

If possible, I'd find a way to attach the probes to each end of the wires you're testing and try to bend/flex/wiggle the harness a bit to look for loose connections. An obvious light or speaker associated with the continuity test would be helpful. This thread has info on the 1996 PCM connector...

I've never touched the insides of mine. But others here probably have good info for you

Have you mentioned that before? That's a very useful detail. Again points to a wiring issue.

What are you guys using to tune things? That's still a world I'm unfamiliar with. Short term I need to disable EGR, but eventually I'll need some other things like shutting down the 4R70W functions.

If it is, then you're far better off paying someone to troubleshoot this problem than continuing to replace parts by guesswork. That gets expensive and frustrating very quickly.

That looks amazing.

Assuming you do have to replace significant portions, this is the perfect opportunity for a Dana 35 TTB swap.

I think you need to test and determine the source of the problem.

If I'm understanding P0320 correctly, the ECM is losing input from the crank position sensor. Assuming the sensor itself is okay, the next step would be a complete wiring check from the connector at the sensor back to the ECM.