Search results

How long have you had the RCD kit, and do you have any feedback about it?

Koda does bring up an interesting question. The click had to have come from something other than the starter relay.

I'm just wild guessing here so bear with me... Do both systems just use a tone ring with a magnetic pickup and two wires? If so, the only issue is getting a trigger wheel with the right number of teeth to match the stock explorer wheel and a sensor in position to measure it.

Is it possible you just have a bad connection at the battery?

The third sensor is just for monitoring catalyst efficiency, so I'd anticipate it being relatively steady.

@FlyinBarney - the parts I linked above are a duplication of the old RCD brackets. You can pick them up for $325, then add your own coilover and strap setup.

If you can come up with a few basic tools, we could probably walk you through it.

Interesting. I'd go through checking all the shift tube bushings and the torx bolts that hold the shift tube in place. If all that checks out and the problem persists, you can pop the shift cable off the side of the transmission to ensure that it moves smoothly through the detents at that point.

When you say it won't shift into drive - does it feel at the lever like it's mechanically going into that position but not moving forward?

Have you compared the connectors on the 4406 and 1354 electronic shift cases? I've seen mixed feedback on whether they're the same. It would be nice to know if you could do a V8 swap and keep the push button setup with an e-shift with a plug and play case switch. I'm already set up with a...

Which terminal, or both, are building up corrosion?

I thought on one or two years that pats did actually disable the starter as well as the injectors. Definitely not?

I haven't done it. The conversion is on the list of 'things I'd like to get to someday if money allows.' That said, there are quite a few in the linked thread who have done the swap at stock height and seem very pleased.

In case someone is considering Trick Flow's 'Track Max' stage 2 cam, I wouldn't recommend it. Way too much duration for a semi-stock engine in a heavy truck. Maybe if I'd had a matching torque converter and more compression. No power through almost 3000RPM, then pulling like a freight train...

I wonder if that's because you aren't logged in. I just saw one banner ad at the top.

Coilover Brackets by ME00stepside Official Thread - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

Yes, do that as well.

Nothing ought to drain the battery that fast. Use a meter to check amp draw on the different circuits at the fuse box.

Amazon is taking care of it. I'm glad - not sure I would have believed my own story from their side.

I hope. There's another possibility. I know TFS doesn't make their own grinds. If Comp does it for them, maybe they screwed this up before it ever got to Amazon. All the packaging looked brand new when it arrived. Cam looked new, all the papers and stickers, etc were totally clean.

At this point I'm out many hours of repeated work and time spent trying to wrap my head around this, plus a few gasket sets, an extra set of pushrods, and all the coolant and oil that's been wasted. I'm also probably SOL on getting the cam exchanged without just buying a new one. All that said...

Got the cam out. Not only was it the wrong part number, but it's not even the right brand. Trick flow with a lot more duration. I bought it from Amazon. My guess is somebody returned it in the Comp box, and Amazon sold it as new rather than a warehouse deal. Complete insanity. Received this...

Oh, I could see that with a 3 inch lift. Mine is just a one inch with no extension required. Thanks for clarifying.

Why is that?

It's fine and probably very helpful. I just misunderstood.

Made a little progress today. Hopefully I'll find time tomorrow to unbolt the body mounts so I can slide the cam out.

Oh okay. I missed the manual info on their website somehow.

I added 1998 and 1999 to the linked thread.

And here's 1998:

Here's the 1999 info.

It's certainly possible to have some crossover between a new and worn tire. You can also check them mathematically if you're just comparing sizes online, or with a tape measure against two properly inflated tires of different sizes. The two sizes you listed are an inch and a half apart in...

For what it's worth, you may save time by just grabbing them from the Ford website: Find Your Owner Manual | Official Ford Owner Site

410 - are you sure that's the link you meant?

Aside from first gear not being needed for long before shifting up, very little.

As I recall, I used one of the reusable metal and rubber gaskets.

No kidding. Time to pull the front cover and lower intake to confirm ,then I get to fight it out with Amazon and Comp Cams. At this point I don't have the original box and I purchased it in December.

As in the wrong one sent in the box.

Quick update... Haven't had a chance to tear anything apart yet, but did have conversations with the machine shop and with COMP Cams. Both believe at this point that the cam is wrong. This should be fun...

I don't remember axle tags having LS, but they do have L between the numbers of the ratio if they're limited slip. 3L73, 4L10, etc.

Sounds good. The cam isn't set up to rev higher than stock, so a stock replacement ought to be adequate. I ordered that and a new Motorcraft cam synchronizer. Hopefully I can get this sorted out over the weekend. Thanks again for all the help!