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The balancer was not replaced initially, and as far as I know has 250k miles. I'll go ahead and plan to replace it while everything is apart just to be safe. IGNORE: Do you know what the difference is between the Powerbond 'Premium' and 'Street Performance' balancers is? Premium is about...

I have some screenshots on my phone from testing that about a month ago when I first started chasing this down. At the time, long term was around 15% and short around 1% (both banks were similar). If I get a chance I'll retest and update this evening. Right now that's my gut instinct as well...

I understand you're trying to help, but I've answered that a couple of times already. Yes, the injectors are the originals.

Sure, but it isn't reading incorrectly. From the OP: "IAT and ECT numbers look correct."

I understand that I'm getting too much fuel. What I'm not clear on is whether that's causing the other issues or caused by them. Also, surprisingly, the plugs aren't particularly black.

Why would that be the cause and not a symptom?

I'll have to check on the vacuum gauge question. Sometime this evening. I do know that the donor engine ran okay, so unless something took up residence in the y-pipe or converters, there shouldn't be an issue there.

I've done that and got no indication of an external leak with a propane torch or carb cleaner. Also no clear noise like you'd associate with a vacuum leak. I think so, but wouldn't swear to it given that the battery was disconnected while pulling the lower intake for the pushrod swap. It may...

The upper intake has been off several times (fix an EGR leak and on the way to swap the pushrods) and the lower has been off once during the pushrod replacement. The vacuum issue has been consistent throughout all of this. Yes, the battery has been connected virtually the entire time and no...

No codes at all, and still running stock injectors. I checked with a stethoscope to ensure they're all mechanically functional.

I went all over the engine yesterday afternoon trying to find a possible vacuum leak. Wasn't able to throw a smoke tester together, but I stuck a meter on while I disconnected and plugged every vacuum source I could with no significant change to vacuum levels. At this point, is it reasonable to...

On cold start I got 10* BTDC, progressing to almost 30 as it warmed up. Ignition timing seems good.

I'm not positive about the accuracy of the gauge. It has been sitting in my garage for years, no idea when I last used it. Timing set is a non adjustable sealed power kit that I intended to set to zero degrees.

With computer controlled running, what would I be looking for? On the TFI system there was a SPOUT plug to disconnect to verify base timing. Not sure whether there's an equivalent with EDIS.

Pointing away from the cam as a root cause, correct? If that's the case, I need to focus more on a smoke test. Any quick thoughts on the vacuum line video? Thanks again.

Cylinder compression 1 through 8 respectively: 145, 150, 150, 145, 145, 159, 145, 159

Any recommendations on reliable 1.6 roller rockers?

I did my best with an impromptu walk through of how everything is connected.

Returnless happens in 98 I recall. Definitely by 99.

Yeah, you can get adapter rings to make that happen. That's my plan for the front doors of the ranger - adapter rings and a 6.5 inch component set. Back doors are already cut out to 6x9's.

That's actually the one I meant to buy when I ordered mine. Just wasn't paying attention and grabbed the Bluetooth version by mistake. It's worked great so far, but the USB version sounds perfect for you.

Then use this one: bbfly-BF32302 USB modified FTDI chip OBD-II Scan Tool for Windows ELMconfig Forscan HS-CAN / MS-CAN Ford Mazda OBD2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9R9QS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k1RPBb7R627Q7

I've used this one with Forscan to clear and add keys a couple of times. bbfly-BB77102 Bluetooth modified Android OBD Scan Tool FORScan ELMconfig FOCCCUS OBD2 HS-CAN / MS-CAN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUALTSX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sURPBbS094RE1

It's amazing how inexpensive some things have gotten in car audio over the years. A basic head unit with a lot of features can be had for $100 now. A 5 channel amp that can comfortably push all the mains and a reasonable sub while really fitting under the seat is below $150.

I'm going to pick the truck back up on the morning and try to go over it all again carefully. You guys may be inundated with pictures of vacuum lines as I confirm things. Thanks again for all the help. I truly appreciate it.

As I recall the range on the cam instructions was .02-.04, and the shim kit options forced me closer to the .04 side. No idea on installed height, coil bind height, etc. The springs were selected by Alex's Parts based on the cam spec sheet and installed by the local performance machine shop...

I'm not sure. They're set up with almost .04 preload on the lifters, so there would be at least some friction to resist that.

I initially failed to check the pushrod length and had tons of valve train noise. A friend helped me diagnose that issue and order new ones in the right length. Stock length is 6.248, the new ones are 6.35. I've got .040 shims to get the preload right. I haven't touched the braking system or...

Can the cam synchronizer cause a change in vacuum levels? I thought it could just affect ignition timing (I'm still glad to check, just making sure I understand).

Technically you don't -have- to pull the engine.

If I pick up the truck tonight from the shop I'll try to do a compression and smoke test over the weekend. Had forgotten about that possibility. Thanks for the idea . I don't have a tune at this point. Eventually I plan to get one, but I wanted to wait until the mechanical side was definitely...

Next step I think will be doing a compression test to rule out an external vacuum leak. If compression is low across the board, I suspect we're dealing with a cam issue for sure. Anybody have other suggestions? Tagging a few off the top of my head just in case they haven't seen the thread...

I think that's the aftermarket unit that came in my donor explorer. Definitely seems like a quality part, and yes - it's huge.

Just wanted to check - had a chance to try the JMOD yet @CDW6212R?

What cam are you running, @boominXplorer? Edit - XE264-14?

Are you sure? I don't remember seeing that as a possible meter to add .

For what it's worth, I had to use longer pushrods with my cam install and nobody else seems to have needed to do that. What are the odds that I got the wrong camshaft in the box? The box itself was labeled correctly.

Ignition timing isn't really adjustable, so unless I totally wrecked installing the cam synchronizer it should be good there. No codes at all, and I used the tool to set it in place. As far as vacuum leaks - I'm not 'absolutely' sure, but I've looked all over the place and sprayed a lot of...

I'm at my wit's end with the final stage of the '99 Explorer 5.0 transplant into my '99 Ranger. Everything is installed, the truck is inspected, etc. If it ran right, I'd be done... But it doesn't. I'm getting about 13" of steady vacuum at the intake manifold. The engine is a fresh rebuild...

There's also an Edelbrock part for about $30 that makes the EGR fit directly. Hardware store would probably be cheaper, but if you wanted to just have something in hand to do the swap with and not fiddle around, it's an option. Edit - it's part number 8025...