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I put Ranger springs in my 2000 Mountaineer.

Check your axle shafts. I'll bet one of them is on the way out.

Shift Indicator Cable

Vacuum leak. Check from the vacuum ball to the firewall for leaks. I've been fighting them since I bought my 2000 Mounty. The no vacuum default is to defrost. Then when the engine rpms drop and the vacuum goes up, it can switch to the AC vents.

I read on here somewhere, that there is a small screw or rivet that drops and lodges in the track. My drivers side has the same issue. I just haven't cared enough to futz with it.

I'm running the canned tune for reg fuel. Sometimes I'll put the hi-test in and run the canned tune for that. If someone has a Mountaineer, buy the Explorer SCT, the one for the Merc doesn't have any canned tunes.

I'm running 33s with the 3.73 and it's great except when towing. The sweet spot with the 3.73s and 33s is about 90 mph on the highway. It always seems to find it's way there.

Fuses is where I'd start. Then the connections on the instrument panel.

There is a power supply that feeds the display, they like to burn out. Go through the archives. You'll find all of the info you want/need.

Look for a vacuum leak between the vac ball and the firewall. The default is defrost vents, so when the vac falls it sends the air to the defrost vents. Then when the vac is back in range, it blows colder than hell. Mine is doing that again, now.

Right now mine is the factory 3.73s. It's good for around town and great on the highway. But, I live in FLAT south Florida. Towing is ok for short distances with a small trailer, like a motorcycle. I'll be swapping 4.56 in before the summer.

For a 5.0 it's 192. I couldn't tell you what the uses.

I have 265/75/18s on mine, which is 33.5x10.5. I had to trim a bit of the plastic trim off the fender openings, not much. 2.5" lift in the front and 3.5" lift in the back.

$505 includes the $400 tuner.

Almost as lucky as those of us in south Florida.

Go to SCT’s page. sctflash.com

I used Ranger springs in my Mountaineer.

Buy a tuner and have a custom tune written that disables the PATS system,

MFS going bad. Be glad it's your headlights, I had one once that would randomly cut out the brakelights.

You buy a set of spring perches and weld them to your axle.

The SCT updates just allow for selection of newer vehicles. Mine gets regular updates and still works as it always has.

Blend door actuator, it has 4-5 gears in it. There is one in the middle that breaks. The Motorcraft replacement wasn't terribly priced. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1996,explorer,4.0l+v6,1119653,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+blend+door+actuator,10721

front Or, you can change the flange on the front diff to a 1330 flange.

It's most likely the little plastic clip. The ones from the parts store display do not last long. I bought a big bag from a supply house, and mine has lasted 3 years now. If you want one or two, let me know.

The conversion joint simply is 1310 on one plane and 1330 size on the other.

The SCT4 that I bought 3 years ago, has turned off my nonexistent rear O2 sensors, upped the trans pressure, and raised the speed limiter. I have a 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 4WD.

My LED's dim down to about 40-50%.

194's

It also sounds like you have a warped rotor or two.

But, any of the seats up through around 2010(?) will bolt up to the original platform. I've seen some nice Navi and Expedition seats in Gen IIs.

I had a 2001 2WD 5.0 Premier, and absolutely loved it right up to the moment I rolled it. I currently have a 2000 AWD 5.0 that has the manual transfer case swapped in making it a 2000 4WD 5.0. As long as the body will hold together 300,000 miles is a definite probability.

Here is one stand alone trans controller, there are others. It's the same with the FI, no need to use the full harness. US Shift Stand-Alone Transmission Controllers

This is going to sound like a really wild idea, but did you check the bulbs?

"Hard vacuum plastic lines? Yeah. Those are a bit harder to find nos. " And that is why I used steel brake lines for vacuum lines.

Make an anchor or door stop out of it.

The simplest and most effective way is to swap gears to end up with the same rpms at speed. With the 3.73 gears and a 33" tire my numbers come out to needing a 4.29 gear. No one makes that gear for the front diff, so go 4.11 or do like me and go 4.56, I'm about 100 rpms higher than with the...

I have both, a 'good' set of metal ones and a cheapo HF set. When changing out most of my AC system the 'good' set was useless, while the HF cheapo worked like a charm.

I will bet you it's a vacuum leak. The low/no vacuum default is for all of the air to be funneled to the defrost vents, it's a safety thing. Now ask me how many times I've had to fix vacuum leaks on the black line from the ball to the firewall. I have a section of brake line that I have bent...

And... I replaced my actuator about three yeas ago. I did not put the rear screw back in, and it hasn't caused me any issues.

Try ebay, probably a few over there.