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My AC had been weak as far as the stream coming out of the vents. It also would 'cut out' whenever I would accelerate, go up a hill, or just generally have the engine under a load. I fixed it last night. I didn't get any pictures, but I'm posting a link to someone else's how to video. There...

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Instant+Shudder+Fixx No kidding it worked on mine. It may have been a different brand. I don’t remember any more. That was almost 3 years ago.

Or since it's an off road rig, I'm gonna show my age. Get a trans controller, stick a distributor in there, and throw a 700 cfm Holley on a dual plane intake. That baby would scream. Now back to the present day.

I spent somewhere around $300 replacing the compressor, condenser, and drier on my 2000 a couple of months ago. I bought all of the parts from Rock Auto, I had a set of manifold gauges ($49) from HF, and HF's vacuum was $69 (?). I did the whole thing myself, it's really very easy and simple...

The studs are centered on the Mustang mount. The Ex mount studs are offset. So either way you have to modify the crossmember.

And I didn't have to change anything. Mine was plug and play. Good luck with your project.

I put the white sport cluster in my 2000 Mountaineer. I didn't change a thing, and it all works. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?media/users/mas-tequila.239671/

I'm not sure what you can find, but I'm running Ranger springs on my '00. They're a direct bolt in.

I've been chasing the same shadow of a miss for a couple of months now. Mine has gotten worse. It's to the point where it appears to be the harmonic balance. I have a new one coming, it should be here by Thursday. When it's cold, it's smooth, but as it heats up it gets worse.

Do the math brother, a stock 235/75 tire at 3.73, a 33" tire will take a 4.30 gear to give you the same rpm at speed. A 4.10 will put you at the mathematical equivalent of a 3.55 original gear, while a 4.56 will put you where you would be if you had a 3.90 out of the box. No feel required...

To get back to the stock 3.73 gearing with 33" tires takes a 4.30 gear. So using a 4.56 is the equivalent of putting a 3.90 gear in with the stock tire size. I have the same set up, but I broke the u-joint on the front shaft, so I'm waiting to have a DC unit fabbed up. I just towed a trailer...

You have no idea just how bad one can vibrate at speed until it happens to you. The DC is a superior way to overcome the possible vibrations. Ford went with the CV because it cost them less than the DC.

It's in the plenum behind the glove box. It very well could be the blend door motor, they like to go bad. There's a gear made from some type of composite, and the teeth have a bit of stripping off. You'll need to check to see if the motor runs or not. If it's running, you gotta change it.

I just hit the upload button and then select the pics I want from the photo library on my phone or other device. Then they magically appear.

On my 2000 Mountie I used new one ton Ranger springs in the back with the Warrior 's and re-indexed torsion keys up front. Some will tell you that you don't need the re-indexed keys. My Mountie ended up without the harshness that goes with just turning the bars all the way up. You HAVE to use...

You CAN remove it temporarily to check if it changes or eliminates the vibration. Don't leave it out, as the vehicle uses the front for the PARK detent/function, and it will roll away if your not careful.

I wasn't saying Koda isn't right, he likely is. On mine the heater on the sensor was out, and it was enough to make the short term fuel trim FUBAR without throwing a code. On my F's with the 4.2 the o-rings were the culprit just like on the 4.0. If I'm not mistaken the 4.6 suffers from the...

Let me start by saying that I have 0 experience with either 6 in the Explorer, my Mountie is an 8. I had a couple of F150's with the 4.2 V6 that experienced the same intake o-ring leaks. What makes me curious is that you say the idle smooth's out after a couple of minutes. My Mountie recently...

Still running just like before all of this started, or maybe even a little better. When they're hitting on all eight, they sure can be sweet.

Ok, I ordered a pair of Motorcraft O2 sensors and put them in last night. So far the problem is solved. I guess the Bosch unit just failed quickly. It's running just as smooth as can be now.

Before you spend a dime, take the vehicle to any chain parts store and have them check the charging system. It's free, and then you will know where the problem is instead of throwing $ at it and hoping for the best. I replaced my alternator last week and my problem ended up being a wire with a...

When you jumped it from the connector at the firewall to the alternator did you unplug the existing wire? If you have voltage before it goes into the trans harness connector but not after, then you have the same issue I had. Unplug the green/red wire from the alternator, connect a jumper...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2nd-gen-issues-try-this-first.464701/ The 2nd picture is the connector I'm talking about. Here's what I did: Somewhere between the connector and the alternator my green/red wire was shorting out. I cut the green with red stripe wire...

The green with red stripe wire needs 12 volts. Go up to the firewall (on my 2000 5.0) or wherever your trans harness connector is, just follow the green/red wire. Check the voltage on both sides of the connector, then take the 10mm head bolt out and separate the connector and recheck. I ended...

OK, last night I re-cleaned the MAF and the IAC, then checked both with the meter, both are good. I unplugged the O2 sensor for bank 2 and no change. So either the sensor has gone bad, or there is an issue with the wiring, or the PCM is bad. The sensor is covered for 1 year and is the easiest...

I only have the two front ones. I haven't checked them, but would they cause this issue when cold?

It's not that it's actually running rich. It is going into a closed loop mode which defaults into a setting which richens the mixture on those 4 cylinders. It acts like the pre heater on the new O2 sensor stopped functioning. Once everything is up to operating temperature bank 2 functions...

On my 2000 V8 there wasn't a need for oversize on either lower ball joint. I believe that the uppers are pretty much just replace the entire control arm.

If that were a 5.0 I would say it was the trans harness connector. But it would be on the firewall on the 5.0.

Ok, here is one for you. 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 4WD. New plugs and wires, fuel filter, and MSD coil packs were installed less than 1000 miles ago after lean codes were being thrown, in order to try to smooth out the idle stumble. A brand new alternator is putting out 14.4 volts. The front O2...

The Trans connector was the cause of my alternator issues. And very likely the cause of the all the codes, O2 sensors, I was getting. So 2 O2 sensors, 2 coil packs, 1 alternator, about 30 hours, and a lot of swearing could probably have been avoided. I found mine was loose while tracing back...

Koda, no it was squealing so bad I figured if it wasn't bad it soon would be. Turdle, you are correct. Just think about the number of heat/cool cycles that connector has been through, I can't fault the design for becoming loose after 17 years and countless heat cycles. I guess that particular...

Solved!!! There is a large connector on the firewall above the 5-8 cylinder bank that uses a bolt to hold it together. After cleaning the connections and tightening the bolt, all is well. So boys and girls, let's go back to the basics and do like we're supposed to and check ALL of our...

Go back and read the whole thread, the problem has been found. Now I know where it is. I followed the gr/r wire back to a large connector on the firewall that uses a bolt to hold it together. After a very very small wiggle and pushing the connector together, the battery light went out. Now I...

Ok, with everything back together there is now nothing, 0 on the gr/red wire. I know it works off/with the battery light, but where to start troubleshooting?

I'll tell you, 0% on a new Edge is starting to sound good.

Green with red stripe and it's now showing right around 3 - 3 1/2 volts. I'm showing 12.2 at the battery and alternator now. What's left, besides the wire to the starter?

Well, the alternator tested good. I'll see what happens once it's all back together. The battery is up to 80% charged now.

On the way to my warehouse this afternoon, the battery light would go out and come back on. I pulled the 'New' battery and out on the charger which read 67% charged. I followed all of the suggestions in all of the old threads I could find. I didn't find any wiring issues. I'm open to any...

Advance tested everything last night and swapped the battery under warranty, still no charging. The IDIOT kid who worked there told me everything was good. I asked him how that could be, then hit the key and click click click. There was less than 6 volts and a bad cell. Am I missing...