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Here's the issue the guy had that prompted the above suggestion. Lucky guy actually pulled codes! My 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 has ABS light ON. ABS codes C1194 and C1185. ABS light only. So probably not related, but I thought the above data on the ohms reading might be of use.

I've been pondering running a wire from the battery, with fuse, to the O/Y feed into pin 17 for quite a while! I'll hold off until I've done your suggested tests. A friend came across one of those "pay a mechanic to fix this" sites with a somewhat related question. They showed one response...

I'm going to have to read this through a few times to let it sink into my 75-year-old brain, but your efforts are greatly appreciated. What had me focused on pin 17 was, on 410's sheet, its function is labeled as vehicle power. In my manual, it's listed as Fused Ignition Run/Start Feed. Those...

Testing the diode, I got .61 one way, and zero the other, so it would seem it's okay. I'll put in a jumper across its socket and see if that gives me 12V at #17.

Okay. I pulled the diode, the one on the left side. I do get 12V going into the diode. I'll see if I can test the diode itself. I gather it's basically a resistance test, with resistance being greater in one direction than the other?

Does the diode just pull out? I tried wiggling and tugging on it a bit, but I didn't want to force it.

I looked at the wiring diagrams 410Fortune sent. I'm not great at this, but it seems the orange/yellow lead goes from #17 (the one that shows no voltage but, I think, should) on the control module to a diode on the underhood fuse block. I've got a diode tester on my multimeter, but haven't ever...

The owner's manual only shows the one set of fuse panels. The interior panel shows 11 warning lamps, 13 brake on/off switch, and 14 anti-lock system. The underhood panel shows 9 blower motor relay and 10 power seats. It does show 5 4WABS pump relay, and 6 4AWABS main relay. I'll go check those...

This is the previous page in my manual, showing the connector. That looks identical to what I have, unless I'm misunderstanding, and you're talking about something else. I'll look at fuses in the owner's manual and see what that has.

I've now checked all four relevant fuses. They all are fine. I'll attach the page from my manual, which shows, again, 20 and 17 getting 12V. 20 says "fused ignition run feed" and it reads a bit lower than battery voltage, say 11.5V. 17 says "Fused ignition RUN/START Feed. I'm not sure what the...

Mine's Explorer/Mountaineer. It shows the March 1996 date at the bottom of each page.Yours does show 17 for power, so you'd think that'd be right, but I'm open to all possibilities! I'm looking forward to getting home and double-checking all the relevant fuses. I'm half-tempted to trace the wire...

The factory shop manual, two volumes, that I have is dated March 1996, so maybe it's the right one? I'm basing the pin outs on the above image. I'll compare it to my manual when I get home Thursday, but any confirmation you might come up with would be greatly appreciated.

I'm about to head out of town for Thanksgiving, but couldn't resist running some quick tests on the connector. I do see good ground at terminals 1 and 14. See resistance at the rear sensor. I get system voltage at 20, the "ignition feed," but nothing at 17, "vehicle power." I've only checked the...

Yes, round airbox. Thanks for all the diagrams. This is a big help!

Well, I spoke too soon about not needing your wiring diagrams. I pulled the control unit's connector, and it doesn't match the pin-out diagram I'd been referred to earlier, and my factory manual just wants you to plug the factory tester into it. I'll attach a photo of my connector and of the...

Thanks. I do have the original factory manuals, in real paper! I guess I'd better dust them off and put them to use.

That's nuts! I've had fun ordering from AliExpress. They have that OBDLink MX+ for less, but not enough less to have a more complicated return process, I think. I've got an '04 Miata, so I'm thinking some of the Forscan tools might transfer to that.

Thanks. I'll check out the link for testing the rear sensor at the control unit. I've started the Forscan download on my iPad, but it might make more sense to use my Windows LT, which doesn't get much exercise otherwise. I can still send the two new readers back to Amazon, so getting another...

My '97 Mountaineer has had a persistent ABS light. I ordered a new code reader, that would do ABS, it could find no data, saying, "We did not receive a response from this module, or it is not equipped in this vehicle." It was a fairly cheap unit, so I figured it just didn't have the right...

I do see that Rock Auto sells an ABS control module for about $130, after core return. I guess it's looking like maybe I should order one?

I think I'll give your Launch unit a try, although it may well be that something's fried in my system, and that nothing will pull ABS data. I just hooked up the Innova 5210, which I find much harder to use than my old Innova, and I got the same "failed to communicate" screen. To its credit, it...

Replying to my own post! I've looked at a bunch of reviews, and I'm leaning toward the Innova 5210. I've had good luck with Innova products, their support is here in the US, and, most importantly, their site lets you check compatibility of your specific vehicle. It does say this should read my...

My '97 Mountaineer's ABS light has been on for quite some time. My Innova OBD2 reader doesn't do ABS, so I ordered a Blcktec 430 from Amazon, which does. I get a "not available" when I ask it to check for ABS issues. I've read the previous threads about code readers, and it sure seems like there...