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I'm having a similar problem with my 96 XLT but it only idles rough when it warms up. I've completely rebuit the EGR system (at the same time I was getting an EGR code), new plugs and wires, cleaned IAC and MAF, checked my vacuum (it was good), and checked compression. I replaced the R/H...

How were you clearing the codes? Dr Haynes calles out "Caution Do not disconnect the battery from the vehicle to clear the codes. This will erase stored operating parameters from the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) and cause the engine to run rough for a period of time while the computer relearns the...

Sounds like you sucked water into your intake. This happened to me last week. It'd start off driving fine and then bog down all of the sudden. It comes and goes. My air filter was soaked and I had a puddle of water in it. I replaced the air filter, cleaned out all the water, and dryed out...

Now that I'm reading back in the thread, fuse 13 is "Hot at all times" (30A) fuse that feeds the PCM power relay. I didn't see a fuse 14, but there was a fuse 4 that is "Hot at all times" also. Fuse 11 (15A) is "Hot in Run or Start" This would be a better spot to tie in your new indicator.

Well, with the car off, just do a voltage check at that wire that you spliced with. The ignition is wired hot up to the ignition key. The key is used as the switch to complete the circuit. I'm guessing that you will find that wire to have power when the car is off.

If it's for the ignition circuit, it should be powered all of the time. You might to tie it in somewhere else or add a switch to remove power when not in use.

I agree with Verno......I would check that you tied into the right side of the circuit. It you are on the wrong side, the indicator would be powered all the time and drain your battery.

Fuses don't short.....that is their job. It's when they open, that they are bad. It's the circuit before or after the fuse that can short. Usually the load side of the circuit shorts. But if that happened, then the fuse would have blown.

The problem is.....if you had a shorted power wire that wasn't fuse blown......you'd have melting wire and smoke.....and sometimes fire. Does the battery only drain when you drive it or does it only drain when it is sitting in the driveway?

"If you suspect that there is a voltage drain on the battery while the vehicle is sitting in the driveway, remove the battery positive terminal, install a test light between the battery terminal and the cable (series connection) and observe the test light. If the light is BRIGHTLY illuminated...

Well, here it is about a week later and now all of the sudden I started getting a CEL P0306 Cylinder no. 6 misfire detected. This is very similar to what I saw the last time I changed the plugs. I pulled the coil wires to check the Primary and Secondary coil resistances. According to Dr...

According to Dr. Haynes......there are 2 different ways that it could be. ONE......2 wires off of the positive......one to the starter relay.....and the other to the starter solenoid. TWO........one wire off of the positive that eventually splices down to 3 fused wires.......2 of the fused...

That shouldn't be the problem then.......I'm not the best car mechanic, but I make a living on electronics.......so I would do those resistance/continuity checks and see where you stand.

Is the LC-1 wired directly to your battery? I would check how that wire is stowed or remove it from where you tired in to get the power. If the battery stops draining after that, you know there's a problem with that wire.

Who wired in the LC-1? I'm thinking that it may have drained your battery. You might want to see how it is wired.......

Almost all of the power wires in a car are fuse protected, so if one was shorted to gnd, it would blow a fuse. I am curious how you are probing the ground connections. The best way would be to ring continuity (ohms check.....not voltage) between the post and the negative terminal of the...

That's right......what you are reading is normal. To get a voltage reading on a voltmeter....you must have a power source and a ground. The voltage you are seeing is the battery voltage, and the engine is providing you the ground. Now if you were putting the red lead on the engine, and the...

The negative battery cable should be also grounded to the chassis. The engine is mounted to the chassis and therfore provides a grounding point from any point of the engine. The charge you are seeing is from the battery.....not the engine. The engine components are just providing you a ground...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Canister-Purge-Valve-BWD_20970490-P_760_R%7CGRPEMISAMS_674726153___ Is this the part?? I did a search on their site for a '91 and it doesn't even list the part as applicable......

I was just reading another thread about it......makes you wonder how they stay in business. (tho i prefer AZ over AA!) You should try buying the 30-40 ohm resistor at Radio Shack and plugging it in to verify it is the fix. It'll cost you no more than $1-2. But I guess if you know the part is...

Pretty odd that you have 3 new units that all read the same......are you sure the testing procedure is accurate??

Depending on the circuit, any resistance above or below the allowed tolerance could open or close the valve. I would assume that 30-40 ohms is the nominal resistance that keeps the valve closed. So if it's reading high all the time, the valve would remain open all of the time. Plus, the...

Well, it still runs a little rough when it warms up but it doesn't seem to pulse back and forth anymore. When it's idling rough the exhaust smells strange.....nothing like any exhaust I've ever smelled before. I went to buy the other upstream o2 sensor but the AA I went to was out of them. I...

And that Gray/Yellow wire is a straight shot to Pin 31 if you suspect a broken wire. The red one can be traced back to the PCM at pins 37 or 57.

It's looks like there's only 2 wires to the Canister Purge Valve (red and Gray/yellow) The red wire is spliced into quite a bit of other things and you would have a lot more problems if it wasn't powered. The gray/yellow wire goes straight to the PCM........According to Haynes, there is no...

I installed a new Upstream Bank 1 O2 sensor (forward passenger side before the CAT) and that took care of the rough pulsing idle when the X warmed up. The idle still isn't as smooth as I would like it, but not near as bad as it was. I think I'm gonna replace the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor just...

lol.....I wasn't being critical......I was just saying that most of the people I know would never even think to look at the box. My Dad always taught me to look at the chart under the hood. What it said was what goes!! It's just funny how things have changed.

And to answer Tbars questions, I have the Autolite Platinum box right here. On the back there is a note: "Important Check Autolite spark plug catalog for proper application, torque specs, and gap settings. Set gab before installing." Who has actually ever read the spark plug box anyway?!?

I had originally gapped my Autolite Plat's to what I found to be the average when I pulled them out of the box. (.045) The X ran just fine. I just had all of the plugs back out yesterday for other maintenance and re-gapped them all to .052. I didn't even notice a difference. Someone should...

Ok....bought a compression tester today and these are the results: 1-170 2-165 3-115 4-150 5-135 6-120 Numbers aren't the best....but what I've heard, not terribly bad either. I suspect I have the infamous head gasket leak on near the #3 cylinder. Also got a new code on the way home...

Lol.....Just got back from doing that.......As i opened the strap, water was pouring out. The filter is SOAKED!! I guess the pulled was a lil deeper than I thought. At least it's not a big problem!!

Well now I have a new development. I live in South Florida and it's been raining for about 18 hours straight. I was driving thru a parking lot and what turned out to look like a small puddle, ended up being a rather deep one! It was about 3.5 ft or so and as I dipped down into it, my car...

Well I think I'm gonna change the intake plenum gasket this weekend. I've read on here that it's been a problem and it's only $4.99 at the local AZ. Can't hurt to try!

Thanks for the help.....You're probably right and I just have found the leak yet. I'll keep looking.

Why would I need to disconnect the battery if the computer is not seeing a code? I looked at it a few different times with the reader and cleared it after connecting and disconnecting the connector. As for the brake booster, it only leaked when i was moving the hose around at the booster...

I have unplugged the battery for that long when I was originally cleaning the code. I was getting the P0401 code but that has since been fixed when I replaced every part of the EGR system. I thought then that the rough idle and the EGR code were linked. Now I don't think they were linked at...

Well, I installed them doing the "AVG" way and it runs fine.......I guess the gapping instructions underneath the hood are obsolete these days........

Sorry about that.............Changing the plugs and wires did nothing. The computer is not throwing a code. Supposedly, it's peachy keen!! I know better.......it never had the rough idle before. I have no idea where to go from here..........

So I'm changing my plugs and wires tonight. No sure that it'll make a difference but it's due for the change anyway so it can't hurt. I bought an Actron CP9175 code reader today from AA so I could see live sensor data. If you are familar with this unit, it's not capable. It reads the code...

Mine is all stock. I really don't want to have to do it twice so I'm hoping that someone here has ran into this before.