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UPDATE: Replaced Servo Module with part from '99. Still no go on the cruise control. Speed Cont light comes on. Leads me to believe BOO and Deactivator Switch both work. Could be stuck "coast" switch on the steering wheel? How can you tell if a servo module is good?

I had misfires on my 97. cause was plugs and leaky vacuum.

Oh and the servo is 250 from dealer. I got mine on ebay for 28 bucks. 97-01 year models should be interchangeable. I'll find out when my 99 servo is delivered next week. But as far as pulling it and installing the new one, its 3 bolts and a pin that holds the throttle wire. REALLY simple

you might wanna look into the deactivator switch recall. Call a ford dealer and give them our vin #. Ask if its up for any recalls. I believe they'll install a new switch with a fuse in it. Oil/brake fluid could be leaking into the harness and could ignite. I would leave it unplugged till...

no problem. I've been searching for answers here for a few days now. It can get kinda crazy searching the forum, but if you can disect it all and apply it to what you have, then its a great source. I am not at all good with cars so that tells you how good this site is.

I'm needing a cruise control servo for a 1997 ford explorer. Are there any ways to tell if another model's parts are compatible? the part number is : F87Z9C735GA

This is the side panel of the servo. This little bugger actually pulls the throttle cable and holds it at the speed you set it (electronic cc systems only) This is an underneath view of a connector that runs to the servo motor. Looks like I have a bad motor on my servo. That would explain...

UPDATE: It's not the Deactivator switch, or the BOO switch. When the break is pressed the Speed Cont. light goes off like normal. I'm starting to think that its the servo unit itself. I've been trying to find if it has a fuse or relay connected to it but cannot find anything in my...

so your speed cont dash light was coming on and it just wouldn't engage?

Update: I checked the switch on the master break cylinder with my fuse tester, so I know it has a circuit still and is not shorted out. So now the BOO switch? Maybe the throttle wire from the Switch on the Break Master Cylider? Anyone else have any experience with a similar situation?

My cruise control will not engage, although the dash light indicator will come on. Any ideas?