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Hey guys, so I installed a Pioneer Head unit, amp and sub yesterday. All was good on the 45 min drive afterward. Then when I go to head home, the sound is getting all "under water sounding" when I push the gas pedal. Whether I'm in 1st and taking off, or in 5th at 1500 rpms and push the gas on...

I never took any before I did the work...stupid me..haha...well heres just F150 Seats...

Well I don't have a pic of before the lift/rims/tires but here is a couple with the F150 Seats on.

all I have available to get the rivits out is a disc grinder...and im guessing that would take even longer...and being in an apartment, the only outlet I have is the one the garage door is plugged into... and RIP was just easy...I updated my sig ;) haha...the talon was parted out, and the tC...

Ok, well the truck is on the road again...kinda sad though...only ended up doing the F150 seat with stock spring... I didn't realize the cross member bracket had rivits along with nuts/bolts...so not having anything to remove rivits...kinda got stuck again yesterday. haha. and money got a...

well i guess I'll post some info and pics from this weekend...just not done yet, waiting on the drop brackets from nak4af to come in to fix the forward rotation. Shot of stock 8" Stud Bolt, to 10" Grade 8 3/4" F150 Coil being installed on F150 Seat...notice the insane rotation forward...

Im quite used to a stiff suspension...haha Cars Ive had: My F350 had 10" lift of leafs front and rear...felt like the body was welded to the suspension My F250 Diesel had a 2" level kit, so pretty normal ride Scion tC, full coilovers for mountain runs Talon, also full coilovers for track...

Heres some pics of the dis-assembly 1: Removed Tire 2: Closeup of the stock coil seat 3: Closeup showing how a 4x2 has a long single bolt 4: Shot of the coil out, and the bolt sticking through with the second nut Will post more of re-assembly the next couple days...when...

Another problem....my stupidity... The stock bolts are only 8" long...not 10"....sooooo...the 12" bolts I bought are 2" too long...haha... I took my stock ones into Home Depot, they only had 8" long, so I told myself I needed 10"...then I went to McFadden Dales, and somehow I thought my stock...

I was able to get my stock Springs out after I undid the top shock nut, but the F150 coils I have are thicker gauge and about 1 1/2" taller...plus the addition of a 2" Coil Seat...I need coil clamps...unless I do drop the radius arm...but I don't have access to air tools at the moment, and 5...

Ok...so this weekend I've been in process doing the Coil Seats and Coil Springs off a '92 F150... Problem 1: Stud bolts too short (forewarned by forum members) Problem 2: Studs off 4x4 Exp dont work on a 4x2...4x2 has 10" Long 3/4" Grade 8 bolt...I need a 12" 3/4" Grade 8 bolt. 4x4 model has a...

'93 Sport 5spd... I notice a sound almost every gear if I let the clutch out slightly too fast, but mainly shifting in 5th/OD is when I hear it. I can let the clutch out slow enough that it doens't make the sound, but normal diriving shifting into OD make a loud "clunk" / "pounding" sound. Its...

MOD PLEASE DELETE...i commented on the Truckhaven 2010 Jan 23-24 :) Thank You!!

ok well this sounds really fun...my only issue is 2wd...F150 seats and 30" mudders...not tooo wheeling rigged yet. haha. I have really been wanting to get out of the house and wheel/camp something fun and away from home! :) haha. maybe if enough newbs like me show up..we can do some easy...

awesome info on the Hyd TO Bearing thanks! I will read up a couple more times what you did and see if I can figure it out. haha shifter location - I was thinking about having a friend of mine fabbed me a shifter arm to set the knob where I want it...but do you think the shifter will actually be...

ok I was really thinking about just going strait to a '94-95 motor so I didn't have any fabbing to do for the shorter water pump, etc...like you did. I have been looking through Craigslist and auto trader and I can get a running '94-95 for $1500-3000 so I'm thinkin id have fun driving that...

hey So Cali's...so who on here likes to go wheel and camp?? I see people getting together to wheel...but what about hitting some trails and overnight camp and hangout! maybe up somewhere in big bear...or any other ideas?? I haven't been for quite awhile now since I haven't had a truck/suv...but...

oh dont worry about being "long winded" haha I just took a couple days to read every post on this thread...haha. I'm one who will sit here for months and months researching everything I need to do a project before I start...and at the moment I don't have all the tools to start...so I might as...

so its been a couple years on this thread since anyone has posted. I have a couple questions cuz this is something that i am highly considering if I don't do the stock OHV Turbo build. on the motor you went with, would you recommend using a '94-95 motor instead of the earlier year like you used...

Sounds like this is the quickest and easiest way...will be attempting this either today or tomorrow...on my way to ford to see if theey have 2 passenger seats before I head to pick-a-part. And I saw a post about doing the F150 coils also...is that worth doing at the same tine? If so can someone...

Does anyone have experience doin this on 2wd? My main concern is getting the proper seat bolts on so I can hold the f150 seat down...so my main question is if anyone can give me a quick run down on what It takes to swap the seat stud bolts. Thanks!

ok so I have a 4X2, how would I go about getting the longer stud bolts that would hold the F150 Seats? Should I just get 4x4 replacements from Ford? Does anyone have some I can buy? ...and I haven't gotten under the truck to look for myself yet...but are the studs fairly difficult to change to...

yea I was checking out this site when I googled "93 explorer fiberglass" haha can i really do a '06 Sport Trac conversion on a 1G??? :) that would be pretty bad ass! haha as far as the Bronco/F150 Rear End, should I look for a certain model stamp for a good gearing setup or for a posi/lsd...

Hey guys...just wondering what mfg of glass looks and fits the best on the 1G? I wouldn't mind doing a newer body conversion if i'm looking around the same price as just glassing my stock look...either way i like the old boxy look, but I also like the newer look...I'm for sure going to do the...

honestly motor wise...stock OHV, new stock heads mild ported, looking for a good cam...then see where the motor goes on 5-8psi...then take it to my friends dyno and get it tuned properly and see what i get. I'm not looking to put too much into the truck...just really miss the sound and fell of...

Ive seen them brand new from $575 up and whats nice is getting the input for the Wideband and running a WB O2 the Emanage has the option to take into consideration the A/F and retune itself for earier base mapping and fine tuning that a "human" may have passed by. its a really nice unit...just...

Thanks for the offer on the SDS System...the only issue i have with that system is its dropping the MAF for a MAP setup...through my slight tuning history, Ive liked the MAF option much more the MAP especially on a motor that is designed N/A and if I only run around 5psi that MAP is going to be...

well i was doing a little more research this weekend and I think I'm leaning towards the Greddy E-manage Ultimate. Its a piggy back but pretty much takes over the ECU. Its the strongest universal Piggy Back without going full stand alone. I'm dropping the SAFC Neo idea since I plan on...

*bump* does anyone on here thats tunes have any input on the Apex'i SAFC Neo? Just curious what others think. Please give your input! Thanks!

wow...that can really come in handy! Thanks for the link!!

so whats with the "set the perch to 0*" whats the difference in doing that to just measuring from the stock perch to the new perch? I don't know about everyone else...but i don't have the leveler like you do...but i have a tape measure!! haha

well me coming from a "tuner" side for a little while...i was wondering whats stopping any of us from using simple piggyback units like the SAFC or Greddy E-manage? The SAFC only hooks to 12v +, -, rpm wire, throttle signal, and sits between the O2 sensor and the stock ECU...just tricking the...