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Welcome, it's a great place with lots of helpful people.

all right, I cleaned the throttle body and since I had things apart, I changed the problematic elbow. the elbow was not in good shape and may have been the problem after all. I did the reset as instructed and it seems to be running well! Thanks everyone!

Number 4 I have yet to clean the throttle body. After reading more on the threads my plan is to disconnect the battery. If that does not work then ill clean the throttle body and egr valve. Where is the the throttle body? I know it's close to the iac valve.

Mine was the backup switch on the master brake cylinder. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155199&highlight=cruise+control+master+brake+cylinder

Thanks guys, I cleaned the MAF sensor and IAC valve today and it's still running rough at idle. Is my next move changing the O2 sensor, upstream and bank 1?

Thanks 2Trux, I was thinking I might try that. Any thread out there on cleaning the MAF or where it is?

lincolnshibuya, I also got on the thread about the vacuum leak with the elbow that has the hole, and I checked mine out and it looked good! I have not disconnected the battery since I replaced it last summer.

4.6 It is a 2003 4.6 V-8 Mountaineer. Last night I tried the best I could looking for a vacuum leak, using an unlit propane torch. I came up empty, not hearing anything different. Should I change the upstream O2 sensor?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322730 I used this thread, and it worked well for me. I used a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade and duct taped it back down.

My mounty just started to have a rough idle and killed twice at idle in park. It appears to be running smooth besides that. I took it to I Reilly's and it came up with two PO 171 codes and running lean. Any help would be appreciated.

The dropping the tank looked way more difficult, especially since I don't have a hoist. The cutting the hole in the floor was a couple hour project which seemed way easier.

It was definitely the fuel pump for my situation. The check valve on pump broke and I had to replace the fuel pump. I cut a hole in the floor and changed it that way and it ended up working really good. I actually didnt tighten the cover on the tank/pump enough and had to reopen it back up...

Did you get it? I used a screwdriver and used it like a lever then once I had it stretched far enough I was able to push down on the top with a needle nose.

I am getting a similar noise, I took it to the garage and they told me a pinion bearing. I have not had it fixed yet, because they wanted 800 to do it.

I got the same problem.

I had this exact same issue, I always ha drop double crank it to get it to start, I had narrowed it down to the damper or check valve on the pump. I took it to the garage and they checked the damper and that was not it, I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly this weekend with a Carter ensure...

Why don't you just get your rotors turned?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322730 finally I changed the pump this weekend using this thread, it went pretty smoothly. Truck starts right up now

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322730 here is the thread I used to change the pump this weekend P

I have the same problem, and my garage told me it was the check valve on the pump. I am going to change the pump this weekend.

Dave, What do you think?, the used tires I bought have 9/32" of tread and the new ones that have the same brand Continental Contitrac TR have 11/32" of tread, should I replace the used ones as well? Biswrest

I changed all the fluid, rear and front differential and the transfer case. It still made the hum. I then rotated the tires, like you said and I drove it for ten minutes and everything sounded normal. It will get driven more tomorrow, so i will see if that worked. Thanks Dave

Dave, So you think that when the differential gets hot, it blows it out that relief valve? I can rotate the tires tonight to see what happens. I have replaced both front wheel bearings and hubs already and that was definitely making a different noise.

I am looking for a little help, I have a 2003 AWD Mountianeer. There is a dead end tube up by the front drivers side door that has blew gear oil out twice now. I also have a front end hum noise. A little background, I recently blew a tire out away from home, so I put two pretty new...

I went with the Timken.

the fuel filter did not work, have any of you guys tried changing the fuel pressure injector damper?

Mark what ended up working for you on this

I just tried pulling the fuse out and it worked, thanks

Did you figure this out 2000Co

mcfoss1, I put a fuel filter in on Saturday evening. A pain in the butt, it took me 2.5 hours but it has seemed to have fixed the problem. Sunday it fired right up everytime I started it. The hard part was getting the main line off filter. It finally came off all, I had to do was jam the...

I started it twice this morning and it fired right up. I was surprised I thought for sure it wasn't going to help. I'm hoping that was it.

Thanks sjtbaker my truck has the same problem I don't don't know about the pressure dropping, but it does it on cold starts. I just changed the fuel filter tonight to see if that makes any difference,then I suppose my next step is to get the pressure checked. Did you check the pressur yourself?

Just replaced mine what a pain the butt. Used the plastic tool to get off the main line after a few swear words. I tried using the metal tool but could not get the line off with that one. Next time should go way faster.

sjtbaker did you ever find the solution to this problem?

Awesome thanks nate and ford fool 2 it was a bad wire in drivers side visor right next to the connection. I did not pull it down far enough yesterday. The wire was was chammed into a metal piece and was a bare wire. It made my day to find the problem thanks to you two!

Fordfool2 thanks for the comments am I approaching this right to pull of the lights and look for bad wires. For the visors I pulled them down and was only able to see like three inches of wire to look at. Or can I unplug the lights somewhere further up the circuit?

Well, when i put the fuse in, it blows. However the drivers side door is always open when I put the fuse in.

I pulled off the visors and the wires seemed intact. I also pulled out the stereo and unplugged it I put the 15 amp circuit breaker in the fuse box and it kept breaking. I need to pin point it down which run of wire is causing the problem. I am thinking I will try to look up the wiring diagram...

Thanks Nate, I should have included the interior lights work do work when the fuse blows. I am at the point where the fuse blows immediately. When the fuse blows, the radio, power windows, visor, and garage door opener don't work. Would I still look for the ground running to the lights first?

The cruise did not work for me either and occasionally the ABS light would come on. I ended up changing the backup switch on the master cylinder and found that was the problem.