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I do recommend watching the above video. Solved a number of issues for me. Real nice demo on how to get the panel off with the hatch closed. Nice demo of how to move the latch to open it once you have the panel off and access to the latch. Pretty clear video of the rod attaching to the handle...

Look what I just found... Bolt 1995-2005 Ford N804641-S301 Replaced By- N804641-S439 https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-bolt_-n804641-s301.html Nut 1994-2007 Ford N806496-S301 Replaced By- N806496-S441...

The bolts are M6x1.0 x 20mm. As stated two posts above...

If you wanted test your pump BEFORE dropping the tank, put your multimeter set for resistance across pin 6 and 7, which are the middle two on the bottom row in the photo above, and if it shows 10 ohms or less the pump is still good.. More than 10 ohms, or most likely infinite, and the pump is...

Very nice service record. I should do that! Some of those are too often and others are not often enough. Attached is the factory service maintenance interval manual. Personally, I agree with some of it. Specifically: Plugs @ every 100K Fuel filter @ every 30K Oil change & filter @ every 5K...

^Spot on advise from fast_dave... A/C compressor also runs on bi-level (floor and vent) setting - in other words, in all settings except heat, vent and off. The moisture will accumulate in the dryer and rust it out. Ask me how I know. The SOHC is well known for poorly engineered chain...

For anyone else in the same boat, and just to follow up... It was painfully slow and awkward with the extension and crows foot, which kept falling off. Keep your telescoping magnet handy.

Thank you for being a RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 10465041797466957 How to Use Your Discount Code Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" box without any other numbers or characters. Please...

No, I needed to update my profile [update - done now] I crashed the 98 SOHC just before Thanksgiving. I've got a new black 2000 xls with the OHV motor now - 89K on the truck! My problem is exactly the same as described in this thread. First attempt was two days ago. Second attempt was...

I'm stuck. Really stuck. Trying to get the upper intake off, but the EGR is trying to kill me. Upper tube is stuck but stuck inside the upper intake. Remove throttle body spray the heck out of it, nothing. So I figure I'll take the EGR off so I can get access to the nuts for the bracket for...

Anything left? Just got another one and just my even be interested in those stock shackles !

Oh... you have a 98 just like mine. You probably also want to do the chain tensioner that is included in 00M12 service notice/kit and while you have your manifold off you can look for your slow coolant leak at the top of and around where your sensors are located. Ask me how I know... Do some...

The rough idle is probably still the intake manifold gaskets. Auto lamps on your mirror is what controls your automatic headlights. The switch gets wonky over he years. I ended up just unplugging mine at the mirror.

Whenever you do drop your pan, install a drain plug for next time.

Yup, normal. Your rear drive shaft is connected to your rear wheels which are currently on the ground, so, no, I would not expect you to be able to rotate the drive shaft. There should be plenty of room down there to get to all of those bolts without turning the shaft. If your vehicle was in...

PS... You can Swap all your fluid out by disconnecting the cooler lines and flushing it with 15 quarts of ATF, if that's what you're looking to do and you have no symptoms. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tranny-flush-question.77507/ No ATF shower required. :)

Your truck needs to be in neutral so the driveshaft won't bind up. You'll need the chock the back wheels for your ramps. Yes, index - scratch a fat line with anything. I'm a rookie and then I say it's Easy. No big deal. Me, I even dropped the valve body to replace my suspected blown upper...

My bad... I forgot to post back earlier today, after I had another look. Nah, it didn't have to come off for the tranny pan. Must have been for the LCA's... It's all a blur. I did find the section that I cut off of the overflow tube (still on my work bench 3 years later). It's about 6...

I remember now. The trick is to drop that front drive shaft out of the way.

I cut a few inches off of the transmission overflow tube to gain some clearance for removing the pan. I did take off the heat shield and I don't recall having issues with any of the bolts on mine.

And, as a bonus, since you have a vacuum leak - therefore allowing extra air into your air/fuel mix - your truck is running rich (wasting fuel and clogging yer cats), just like mine. How many miles?

^ +1 And, also, plus as well, a vacuum leak anywhere in the vacuum system will cause a default to defrost registers. Think EGR gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, IAC and gasket, other vac lines (there's only 3 or 4 of them), Etc... As me how I know. Nah. I'll tell ya: I'm still tracing down...

Jason, you can get a PDF copy of your owner's manual and maintenance schedule here: https://owner.ford.com/content/ford-dot-com/en/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html?type=ymm&year=1999&make=Ford&model=Explorer

Junkyard? Probably worth the trip just to see what it should look like.

It is good to be king.

Okay. The write up from the manual is posted below: Ride Height Drive the vehicle onto a drive-on lift. Jounce the vehicle's front and rear suspension to normalize the vehicle static ride height. Measure the distance between the center line of the front suspension lower arm bushing bolt and...

Nice! And, yes, those tensioners go anyways, and usually trash the belt and assorted vacuum lines when they do.

Evap canister and Evap dust separator box. My mounting bracket is also toast. I'm not too keen on trying to pull one of these at the local scrap yard, while lying on my back in the mud. I've been thinking lately that I'm gonna need to to fab something up. This part is long gone off the...

I'm currently running a Nickson Clamp-a-Stud. (Sorry, I don't know the part number) Same idea as the StudFix. Available at NAPA, Advance, O'Reilly's, Amazon, etc...

Check out '2000StreetRod's Helpful threads for the 2nd Gen Explorer' in the link below. They're all loaded with either pictures or diagrams and you should be able to find what you need there. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263665 There's a link to this in the useful...

Yeah, that's what happened to me, and what was just about to happen to you as well... For me and you, it was not a decision but a necessity. When the top splits (mine failure looks almost identical - imagine that), if the socket remains attached to the plenum, the unbroken half of of the shaft...

It looks like your blend door 'shaft' is not completely broken, and it has only cracked a piece off the D-shaft-hole. Sadly, that means trouble and you're likely going to have the same problem I did: after cutting the access flap, the door still doesn't want to come out, because too much of...

Bah! I know the feeling. I recently spent a few days pondering what the hell my wiper motor could possibly be!

Check out the Down n Dirty different cover: http://www.dndoffroad.com/Down-N-Dirty-Ford-88-Diff-Cover_p_4858.html 3/16" welded steel and comes with a fill plug, bolts, washers and a tube of Dynatex (brand) RTV silicone gasket maker for $69.95, delivered. Mine arrived today. It has a nice...

Ah, yes. It is not a shock absorber, it's an axle damper. Two very good points I hadn't thought through all the way. Thanks JC!

Thanks, everybody. Since I'm also in PA and only at 160K, I reckon I'll be looking to reuse mine as well. Just very strange to me, that new hardware would not be included. It just seems to me that every shock I've ever bought came with new hardware, even the cheapest. If anyone knows the...

Hi everybody... Does anyone know what size the mounting bolts are? Are they standard or perhaps grade 5 or 8? Or, does everybody just reuse the rusty old ones? My KYB didn't come with new hardware! Wtf ?!?

The green, round O-ring goes near the top of the upper EGR tube. There is a groove for it to ride in. This o-ring seals the EGR tube to the plenum where it goes up inside it. The black one goes underneath the EGR valve. Please note that the EGR valve sealing surfaces are soft metals and...