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Well, I HAVE A RESOLUTION! The Monty is way overdue for state inspection. I feared my mechanic would see the ABS light and he'd throw a new control unit at it to see if that fixed it. I'm guessing that'd cost me $400 or if he did it, so I ordered one. AutoZone seemed cheapest, at about $180...

Another reason to keep the Monty over the Subaru is towing capacity. I've got a two-story, very old clapboard house and use my Nifty Lift to reach the higher areas to address the never-ending paint issues. I'm too GD old to stack scaffolding anymore. The Subaru wouldn't come close to towing that...

Thanks so much, 410. It's hard to turn down an offer like that! I'm hoping to test for continuity on a few sections of the O/Y wiring. Let me get that done, and I'll report back. It's turned cold by my wimpy standards, so it may be a couple of days. I need to whittle down my heap fleet. I've...

I looked at the two wiring diagram pages you folks nicely provided (42-2 and 42-3) and wasn't able to determine which fuse was relevant, but that might just be me. I checked to see if circuit 532 (O/Y) was grounded (using the tap I'd inserted near the controller connector), with or without the...

I don't blame you for being a bit confused! I did see 12V at 17 last week, just before I headed out of town. It was the first and only day I got 12V there, but I checked it several times that day, and it was good. It is no longer showing any voltage, as reported above. I thought 17 was fused...

Back from my trip. Checked pin 17. Back to zero volts. I tried twisting, pulling, and pushing on the harness to see if I'd get momentary power, but nope. I then put in a tap on the O/Y wire, just before it goes into the connector. Had continuity between the tap and pin 17. Ran 12V to the tap...

I plugged the connector back into the ABS controller. I did not tighten the bolt that holds it in place, but it seemed snug. Still have the ABS dash light on. That may be an old fault, of course. I did try connecting the Innova reader. I got several screens, indicating to me that it had the...

I rechecked and still zero volts at pump relay 85 with the key off. Roughly 12 (more like 11.5) volts with it on. I then rechecked 17, with the key on, AND THERE'S 12 VOLTS!!! This is the first time I've measured volts, under any circumstances, at 17, so, it does seem like there's a loose...

I hope this info I'm about to relate doesn't mean some of my other data is wrong. I read resistance between the pump relay (the left, or toward-the-radiator relay) socket 85 and pin 17 on the controller connector, and I got .3 ohms. The photos are supposed to show I've got the probes on the...

All data from today should be accurate. I had been focusing on the wrong relay yesterday, in addition to the wrong pins the day before! So, there should be two O/Y wires going to pin 85 on the pump relay, one from the diode, which shouldn't have juice, and one from the ignition switch, which...

Thanks. I'll look over the above. Attached is the relay box photo, with the two sockets indicated, where I inserted 12V, just in case this helps.

I got open circuits on three of the sockets, and 0.5 ohms on one.

Thanks for hanging in there! I'll look over these suggestions and get some info for you shortly. In the meantime, I went out just now and got voltage and resistance readings, with the ignition off and then turned on. If a box is blank, then it means there was neither measurable resistance nor...

Correct. The left relay, which we've been assuming is the primary one, has NO center, 87A, socket, while the right one does.

I'm really sorry for the confusion. I mentally reversed 85 and 86 early in this process, thinking your drawing was for the socket, not the relay, and I've been trying to update the data based on the using the "right" 85, which is on the left. I'll go check the center terminal. I'm pretty sure...

The good news is that the car still starts and runs nicely, so I haven't completely ruined it. With the engine running, I still get system voltage only at 87 on the main relay. On the pump relay, I get volts at 87, 85, and 30.

Put the battery back in. Unrelatedly, I was eventually able to get continuity between 85 and the LB/P wire. The push pin was a bit rusty, and was increasing resistance, so I had to sort of scratch at it. And, while I was able to get 12V, with the ignition on, by pushing a lead into the LB/P...

Just out of curiosity, I checked and there's continuity between socket 85 and 87 and 85 and 30, but not between 85 and 86. Sadly, I'd gotten 12V at the true 85 originally, but attributed it to 86. I'm not sure why I'm not getting volts there now, but this is with a jumper pack connected, and not...

Connecting 12V directly to lug 85 this time promptly blew a 10A fuse, which is the same rating as fuse 14, which hadn't blown, oddly. This is with the ignition key off.

Stuck two pins back into the light-blue/pink, and I got continuity between those two, but not between either of them and any of the darned sockets. So, yeah, I've been working on what in the below image is 85a. I'll switch efforts to 85b! I will go back to the fuse panel, first. to make sure...

It's tough getting old. Belay all the above about socket 85. I thought the diagram showed the socket, but it more likely shows the underside of relay, so I've looked at the opposite side, I'm pretty sure. I'll go back and start checking continuity on the opposite socket, and will let you know.

Got 12V, fused, from the battery to socket 85 by just wedging the wire in with the relay. At that point, the ABS pump comes on, where it didn't before. I get a very slight voltage reading at pin 17, like 0.01V, but that's it. Seems like the next thing to do is to reattach the ABS controller's...

Well, not good news here. I got a second pin into the light-blue/pink wire. I get measurable resistance now between the two pins, but I still get NO continuity between either of those pins and socket 85. So, either this is the wrong wire, or there's an issue inside the socket housing. I'll try...

I've got some of those T pins around here somewhere! Thanks for reminding me. Probably would be faster, though, to just buy some more.

It sure seems like I ought to be able to make contact there, right outside of the housing. I'll work at it some more tomorrow. I may put in two safety pins, a few inches apart, and see if they "talk" to each other. I appreciate the warning about disturbing too much. That's a very good point!

Is it tough to remove the underside cover of that relay box? I can't imagine that having access to the underside of the socket will really accomplish much, but I'm willing to try anything.

I actually tried pushing a large safety pin through the wire, before seeing your note. It went all the way through, into a block of wood this time, instead of my thumb. I still get no circuit between the safety pin and 85, darn it. I'm probably done with that for today, but we'll see. The wire...

I get an open circuit measuring resistance between 85 and chassis ground. I'll keep trying to get, gingerly, through the insulation on the light-blue/pink wire. If I do get continuity between that point and 85, I'll tap in a fused wire to the + side of the battery, and, if nothing blows, see if...

I was trying to run 12V to the light-blue/pink wire, which should feed 85. I just tried to get the DMM to show continuity between 85 and where I was poking into the wire, but I'm not sure I ever actually got through the insulation. I usually have good luck with these taps. Maybe I'll try the...

The fuse at 14 still tests good. I get battery voltage on the right side of the fuse socket, with the ignition on. With it off, I get an open circuit measuring from the left side of the fuse socket to socket 85 on the main relay.

It's getting dark enough that I'll probably stop work on this until the morning. I need to go check my poor boat, which is nearly as old as the Mountaineer, to make sure it has heat, as it may get below freezing tonight. If you know anything about Yanmar diesels' cooling systems, for heaven's...

That is the situation. Nothing at terminal 85, on either relay, regardless of the ignition switch's position. Hope I'm not causing you to pull out your hair in frustration! You patience is hugely appreciated.

Let me look one more time, but I'm pretty sure neither relay ever shows voltage at 85.

Lots of edits! The pump relay never shows any juice either at 85. Juice at 87 always. Similar juice at 86 and 30, with the ignition on.

Sorry. The main relay shows current in either state at 87, and current at 86, albeit down .5V, say from 12.5 to 12 even. Nothing at 85.

The main relay does NOT show current at 85, with the ignition on. I'll double check.

The pump relay, with ignition off, shows 12.6V at terminal 87. No other terminals have juice. With the ignition on, 86 shows 12.4, 30 shows 12.0, and 87A shows 0.04, for what that's worth.

So, on the main relay, do you see battery voltage at pin 85 only if the relay is plugged in, and the ignition is on? If so, I guess I could check that by pulling the relay up just enough to probe that pin? I think I have a photo of the pump relay's voltages. Let me check.

This is trying to show the relevant pin on the relay that's getting juice.

I put the diode back in place, pulled the two ABS relays. I get voltage on one pin on the main relay, whether the ignition switch is on or not. I think two should be on with the ignition. I tried it, for the heck of it, with the engine running, and got the same result. On the other relay, three...