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@Kidd7 Yes, the factory IAC for the 4.0 OHV was manufactured by Hitachi. After replacement of the IAC, if your engine is still hunting for correct idle speed, I'd be looking at the age of the TPS. Reason: Long Term they tend to burn out when the throttle sits forever on one spot of the...

Just sayin' On a 4.0 OHV engine, if a CEL is thrown for a Cam Sensor, that's a warning that there is a bigger, underlying problem... The camshaft sensor doesn't move - it stays stationary w/ (2) screws - see attached pic of the inside of it. What does move is the steel axle/shaft within the...

^^^^^ NP - correction made (below): Just read that you were not only having problems seeing the work area at the rear of the engine, but also jacking up the transmission to change the synchronizer sensor. :)

^^^^^^ NP - Just read that you were not only having problems seeing the work area at the rear of the engine, but also jacking up the transmission to change the synchronizer assembly. :)

@pmonahan Just sayin :) ALL the repairs you're doing would be so simple with just a "hood off" repair = 4 Bolts, 2 on each hood hinge, two guys to remove it. Throw a blanket or thick sheet of cardboard over the engine, and crawl over the top of the engine to reach the synchronizer assembly...

Just adding to the excellent IAC diagram that @J_C provided; There is an aspirin size, felt material, AIR FILTER within the Black Plastic Cap that is to the LEFT of the red arrow in the diagram (ABOVE). Depending on the age of the IAC, over time and environment, that felt pellet can get...

@pmonahan Any updates on the repair?

@Ninjasupahsquid I read your subject line & post - now hear comes the answer you probably don't want to hear - LOL! Since your tick goes away when your engine gets warm, I'd say to reconsider doing anything to it and keep on driving your engine as is. My feeling is that you run a bigger risk...

^^^^ Higher fuel pressure = Better fuel atomization & fuel pattern at the Fuel Injector. Run some TECHRON F.I. Cleaner through the tank and you'll really clean up the inside of the injectors. 32 oz giant size currently on sale at NAPA - $7 cheaper than Amazon! Highest amount of PEA per oz...

Michal would be definitely feeling those cobblestone city streets in Czech Republic ;)

@97Sandbox Just sayin' SERIOUSLY - That RMS (Rear Main Seal) looks really, really good and dry! If it were mine, I wouldn't F with it and chance opening up Pandora's Box. IMHO - when you have a good one, leave it alone. From the excellent pic, the Oil Pan Gasket is your problem... 80% of...

@Flye See attached link: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/how-to-easily-remove-air-from-your-power-steering-pump-steering-rack.360751/ In short - go to hardware store and obtain a rubber stopper that will fit into p/s reservoir (i.e. won't get sucked in!). Drill a hole through...

@999fff Hey Michal - In addition to all the good advice that you have already got in this thread, I will add the following. Check out this attached thread: Torsion Bar Adjusters (kevlar pad replacement?) REASON: Your 26 year old Kevlar Pads probably need to be replaced! Within the attached...

Lots of great advice in this thread - great team work!!! Glad to read that @FijiBill is back on the road. I'll throw this one out there for future readers of this thread - chances are great that an old clutch reservoir assembly will not fully activate the new slave cylinder. Ask me how I know ;)

Just adding, what I feel is the best comment from this Sports' Bring A Trailer auction: "Sure, motorhead’s will notice the Magnum 500’s, the multitude of gauges and the thumping exhaust, but this two-tone beast’s muscle is hiding in the best place to hide, in plain sight." To me, 'nuff said...

@redavis460 A few years ago, you and I exchanged info re: 5 Speed Manual - In the true spirit of the forum, I am grateful for you sharing your top-notch build with us; putting the time, energy and pics into your build thread. I had the same color/condition Sport, except in 4wd - and I lived...

@pmonahan Here's a link to 2 write ups with working pics. If you're lucky, only the "cap and rotor" will need to be replaced. But with 470K on the engine, I think there's a good chance you might be going a bit deeper, possibly having to change the entire assembly. In short, the assembly body...

@freak I dunno know about that - You have a 1997 - and the ad you posted says for the Slave you're thinking of is a 1992 Revision part... It might work, but, I'd rather have the newest revision part that is recommended by a parts re-seller that says it will fit/work :) Here's what Rock Auto...

@grantgrabert Hey Grant, glad to hear that it all worked out! Also, thanks for adding good input to the thread, and documenting your technique to break the bolts loose between the Y Pipe to Exhaust Manifold, as well as your 15mm bolt head size. Hopefully that will help others out. As Grant...

@grantgrabert Glad that the write-up is helping all these years later - To remove the Y Pipe from the 2 Exhaust manifolds, I used a 13mm 6 point socket on a really long extension that led it's way to a breaker bar. The breaker bar was 1/2" so I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer to connect to the...

@barkingspud I understand where you are coming from - my father has issues getting up and into my 2nd Gen. Perhaps adapt this? Hooke Road Windshield Pillar Grab Handle for 2007-2018 Jeep JK Wranger Unlimited 4-Door (Black, Pack of 2) $11.99 for (2) @ Amazon. Remove your A-Pillar trim...

Just sayin - Screen name is for a '98 - BUT - Signature for screen name shows a '96... Here's Rock Auto listings for a '96 & '98 OHV Starter Motors - New & Rebuilt. 1st grouping in BLUE is for NEW 2nd grouping in Orange if for USED Honestly, I don't know if BOSCH even makes NEW starters and...

@97Sandbox Lots of methods, but a winner that I've witnessed is; Concentrated Torch Heat and then either candle wax OR marvel mystery oil for the capillary effect. HTH -

@97Sandbox Just sayin' - Everybody has their favorite fuel pump on the website. I bought a TYC from Rock Auto. TYC is a mainstream manufacturer to auto & truck manufacturers, research them on their website. Link: https://www.genera.com/ The TYC was a much more powerful (PSI) aftermarket...

Yep - these and what @CDW6212R said in Post #44 of this thread are what worked for me.

Just sayin' If I remember correctly, my '98 OHV throttle body had a yellow sticker on it, advising that it was teflon coated so as to help prevent the butterfly getting stuck. The teflon coating may be gone due to age/wear & tear/numerous cleanings -:dunno: Also, the 2 axle holes in the...

@Chrisjd10 Sitting 3 years = I'd be concerned about the thermostat sticking (super easy swap-out on the OHV). Fresh Coolant also recommended. Good luck and have a safe trip!

@Pekka - Dude - I love how you pixelated the license plate in Post 113 - total Operations Security -> lol ;) SISU! to you, my Explorer brother in Finnish Lapland!

@yarrumsm Here's a cut-and-past from years ago, for recent owners of these rides, like you, that are craving old school info! The following used to be a popular topic when TPS' started burning out - around 2003 The subject is Absolute Throttle Position - "The TPS is essentially a rheostat...

Just throwin' this out there - When my OEM TPS went bad, it exhibited the pulsating idle. Over the years, they get a "hot spot" on them. This is due to at idle, they sit on the same electrical contact point for years on end. Replaced it, optimized/set the voltage at the TPS, and was good to...

In my case, DMV sent me next years registration form, which included a a SMOG requirement at a STAR Station, in order for me to apply for next years tags. Sequentially, you need to A) pass smog first, and that allows you to B) "pass go" and pay for the registration tags. If you send money...

Read through all of the eligibility points. You can only get the $$$ is if the vehicle failed smog AND still has current tags... That's why right after my Ex failed smog, I rushed to get my claim in for the $1,000 before my tags expired a few weeks later. My claim was approved literally days...

^^^ Seriously, that's between you and DMV - I dunno. When you're notified you're EX is due for a smog test, the paperwork sez you need to pass smog first, and only then send in your registration money. The smog shop sends DMV the info electronically the same day you pass, and then DMV then...

Sounds like you have a plan w/ the EGR and I hope it all works out for you. Just sayin' - I'll bring you up to speed in case things don't work out for you as it'll probably be a shock to your system as it's a bit different on how they treat a LS400 VS a Ford Explorer. I know from experience...

@myf16 My Ex was never dyno Smogged in 17 yrs of ownership. No roller dyno test for EX's here in the SF Bay Area PRK - tailpipe test 100% (Same as @Fix4Dirt in So Cal). They're extremely tough up here with SMOG enforcement - where are you in Nor Cal that they're so strict? Same as you, based...

Wow - those photos of the starter are a 1st! Now that's the definition of a catastrophic failure - thanks for sharing!

Worth 1,000 words - Blue Teflon Pad after 20+ years :cool:

Just sayin' Given the age and mileage of these rigs, you could have a number of suspension issues that add up to one larger problem. For instance, to add to the list of problems posted by @410Fortune , the blue Teflon pads that are under the torsion bars could also be worn out. I know that...

Just sayin' To ensure long P/S Rack & P/S Pump life, run a GENUINE 3/8" Magnefine (brand) Filter on the return line from the Factory Cooler back to the P/S Pump. Available on Amazon = $22 for the filter & $5 Shipping Carry on -

Josh Then he's definitely in good hands and needs to find out what's your favorite, cold adult beverage ;-)