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Don't have the RESOURCES? The Explorer CAME with a jack in it! Jack up that front end and check it out before it falls apart or something!

Indeed it could be the dimmer or switch modules, since they are in the dome-light circuit. Start checking things from the bulb back; Bulb Socket Wires Fuse Dimmer Switch If you check these with a multimeter, you'll find the culprit in minutes.

How does it sound when you turn it over? Is there any valve chatter?

There are lots of options here, but let's consider what happened sequentially: Your check-engine light was the first symptom. After that, it cut-out completly. To me it seems as though the check-engine light a sign of failure. Maybe a connector started wiggling off, and the check-engine...

Aluminum foil works amazingly. You can tuck it and mold it around everything well, making a super-splash-shield. Just be sure not to spray things directly as it won't be water-tight.

The plug-in flasher is located behind the knee-board (the area in front of the driver's knees). To get to it, you have to remove the plastic "cover", then the metal plate behind it. Remove the 4 torx bolts from the BOTTOM of the plastic knee-board cover. There is one on each side, then a pair...

Yeah....uh....

There is only one thing on the intake that will make the truck not run completely. That's the MAF. Either you mounted it backwards, didn't connect it, or the connector was loose.

It depends on a few things about your particular truck. Call the parts store and ask for a Vehicle Speed Sensor or Rear ABS Sensor.

The device you need is indeed a resistor of sorts. That is if you are talking about the one that goes in the rectangular hole directly below the flexible rubber hose. I have one for sale, if you need it. PM me if so.

It may be your clockspring. Are you sure it's in the column, and not where the wheel connects with the column? Does it do it when the truck is lifted on jackstands (i.e. no resistance on the Power Steering)? Check that out.

Yes, you could bandaid the situation, but still run the risk of other problems. Why not replace it? I'll sell you one of my IAT's for $5 shipped.

No.....he's talking about ON THE INTAKE TUBE, if you would have read it. That is your IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor. It measure the temperature of the air entering the engine, and adjusts the fuel curve to compensate. I have a few of these laying around, so let me know via PM if you'd...

Right...but you can slide it back on for a second and give it a spin. If you want to be real picky, there is an access hole at the bottom of the metal shield plate on the back side of each brake. The starwheel adjuster can be turned with a flat-blade screwdriver through this hole. Simply...

There is a starwheel adjuster behind the rear brake rotors that adjusts the tension of the parking brake shoes. Remove the rotors to access it. Turn it with a screwdriver while testing until you get it to rub the rotor. Then back it off a few clicks and you're good to go! It's #4 in this...

HA ha....I have a steering shaft from my 1998 Mercury Mountaineer that was the donor for my Ranger motor swap. I'll sell it to you for cheap!

Yes, moving the steering wheel without the assistance of the power steering pump will also introduce air into the system. Again not a difficult fix...cycle the wheel back and forth. Air will cause SEVERE steering-wheel shaking over bumps and sharp turns until all of the air is removed.

Hello everyone! :salute: I am swapping a 1998 302 into my 2000 Ford Ranger 2wd. I've been offered a set of Ford Racing Performance Parts headers for this engine that will work with my swap, and I was wondering if anyone had any specifications on them. Are the stock manifolds as...

IT sounds to me like the pivot bolt fell out. Only one bolt holds it to the bracket that's mounted to the firewall. If that's the case, I have a spare you can have. It may have fallen behind the carpet or floor liner. Peel it back slightly and feel around.

It could be a bad horn relay, if one exists. That would explain the "clicking" sound.