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04 Explorer AC Compressor blew - System repair advice

JDF68

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August 19, 2016
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Explorer XLT
Compressor blew, now prevents motor from turning properly and running. Remove serpentine and it runs fine. Local shop (not dealer) wants $1750 to replace it and all major parts. Can't do it. I'll kill myself before I give it that kind of cash for AC. Couple questions:

-- I understand what I have to do with refrigerant. I have access to an evacuation tool. No problem there
I will replace following parts:
  • Compressor
  • Drier
  • Condenser
I do not plan on the evaporator due to its time consuming nature. I believe I can probably flush that enough that it will be ok. Am I being pretentious in my thinking?

I am unclear regarding the expansion valve and orifice tube. Is that integrated in a line to the condenser? Will it need replacing or will I be able to flush it sufficiently?

--- Any other advice, cautions, precautions I am missing would be appreciated --

Thanks.

--JD
 



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the orifice tube needs to be replaced as well as the inline filter at the rear if you have rear AC (also rear expansion valve if there are still contaminants that pass through the inline filter)

orifice tube is serviceable not part of a pipe (Jeep has orifice tube as part of the liquid line) cost less than $2.
 






Do not understand why the motor cannot turn and run with A/C turned off??? imp
 












It turns, but too slow to start. Compressor constantly engaged.

Then, the clutch is mangled and jammed in engaged position. Remove it and replace it, can be driven w/o A/C, right? imp
 






Then, the clutch is mangled and jammed in engaged position. Remove it and replace it, can be driven w/o A/C, right? imp
The entire things is trashed. Clutch and compressor. I'll be repairing it before I drive it because I need the AC. Do you have anything you can dd on this procedure or have you not doen it before? I posted looking for advice before I begin tearing it down. Thank you.
 






When my compressor locked up I was able to 1. drive it by disconnecting the clutch power connection and 2. get my a/c working again for under $100.

Here's what I did:

1. Allowed the refrigerant that is in it to mysteriously disappear with no knowledge of where it went...
2. Removed the old compressor.
3. Installed a $40-$50 compressor from a salvage yard on EBay.
4. Added 4oz of PAG46 oil to replacement compressor and installed new O-rings at manifold connection.
5. Put the system under vacuum
6. Added 3 cans of DuPont SUVA R134a.

Been ice cold for nearly a year now.

I got lucky and was able to get away with not flushing it. Flushing it can add another $100+ to the total because flush is so expensive unless you use acetone and you'll need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube(s).

As @imp said you should be able to drive it by removing the clutch (which is done by removing the center bolt) don't worry about the pulley falling off, it is held on by a snap ring not that bolt.
 






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