05 lincoln aviator

[frank457]

Really strange problem. Hoping maybe someone has seen it before.
All of a sudden the fan for air / heat just turns off then may come back on, then won't work at all. There is a small display that shows the temp. etc. , this goes out along with all the small lights under each button. Everything dead for the heat & ac.
When it shuts off you can hear blend doors move for a few seconds (not sure if this has anything to do with it)

Fuses look good plus ruled that out because it did come back on for a few mins.

Can you read codes for a problem like this?

Thanks for the help

 

[2000StreetRod]

DATC power?

It sounds like you're losing power to the dual automatic temperature control (DATC) module. Does the auxiliary blower stop and start at the same time the front blower does?

 

[frank457]

Yes looks like no power to the climate control assembly (that's what they are calling it in service manual)

Another strange thing happen this morning, battery is dead. Used car last night and everything was fine except climate control was dead. Battery is 2 yrs old. Alternator was replaced this year. Starting to think there is a short?

Thanks again for the help

 

[2000StreetRod]

not fuse 15

Fuse 15 provides power to the DATC module, inboard instrument panel and the PCM. The PCM has redundant power from fuse 40. So if the instrument panel doesn't blank at the same time as the blower, etc quit then you might start suspecting the DATC module. It can probably develop an internal short just like the GEM module does sometimes.

 

[frank457]

Well from what I remember the climate control mod would go out when blower turned on then maybe it would come back on for a few secs then die again. After 2 or 3 times turning off then on it will finally go out and not come back on until disconnecting the battery for awhile. Again all button led's and temp display goes dead.

I pulled the climate control assy out to see if I saw any burnt components on circuit board, stuck switch, etc. All looked good but that doesn't mean anything with electronics.

Can the blower motor go bad and short out? Or burn the connector?

Was hoping to find there is a common part that goes bad for this issue. As you know electrical issues can be very time consuming.

Thanks

 

[frank457]

Update

Wanted to add a few other things that may help troubleshoot.

1) With key turned on but not running and just ext temp showing on display, can hear blend doors moving then DATC display goes out.

2) All illumination lights for climate control buttons stayed on even after removing key and exiting vehicle. They eventually went out after around 5 mins.

3) Left blower motor unplugged and still same thing happen. I would think this would eliminate blower motor shorting out?

If I leave battery disconnected for a while I may get the climate to come on for a few mins. Then when you hear the blend doors moving it goes out. Can the blend door motor short out causing weird symptoms like this?

Thanks

 

[frank457]

Had another question. Wanted to check system for drain on battery. Seems like whatever the issue it is draining battery overnight.

Disconnected Neg batt cable and put meter leads, one on batt terminal and the other on cable.

Get no reading at all. I have meter set to MA. I have 2 good meters I use for work. Both showed no reading.

Even turned on light switch and still no reading of amps. Stays at 0.
According to what I read I should have some amps if anything is on?

It looked simple on youtube videos but not sure if it only works on certain autos?

 

[2000StreetRod]

protected meter?

What was the selected current range of the meter? Most multi-meters only draw a few microamps. Larger current ranges are achieved with shunts that bypass the meter. The meter just measures the voltage drop across the shunt. On many meters there's a different test lead port for high current readings. Some meters have overcurrent protection and reverse polarity protection. Your process is valid assuming the correct range and polarity is observed. The negative probe should go to the disconnected cable negative terminal connector and the positive lead should go to the battery negative terminal. The meter range should be at least 10 amps.