Jordanf1313
Member
- Joined
- June 19, 2017
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- Carson CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2009 ST Adrenalin
I've got the thirst for cleaning up the side of my Adrenalin's bed, make it clean. I don't really use the hooks since its pretty much a city truck and the tonneau cover never comes off. Searches for such an item have revealed others wishes for the same solution that doesn't quite exist. So I dug into it to see what I would need to make my own.
Initial plans were to measure up the existing hardware and then create a CAD model of a plug that would fill the void after the hook was removed. Turns out that the hook is actually a 3 piece assembly; there is the hook, a center structural piece, and the base support. This is a write up for how to modify the base support to create a clean-looking hook eliminator.
The parts you will need are the disassembled hook base support and two new screws, metric M6 - 1.0 x 30mm (Home Depot). The stock screw is very long and will be too long to reuse. Additionally, a flat head that can sink in and create a smooth look is preferable.
So the base support has two spacer protrusions that give the hook its elevation from the surface of the bed side and allow it to stay ridged when pulled on with help from the mounting bolt. These will need to be removed, and I used a basic hand saw to cut them off. I didn't worry about damage to the surface, as the next step was sanding away imperfections anyways.
After removing both protrusions, you might realize at this point that there is no going back and you have ruined the piece and if you want the hooks back then you need to find a junkyard! Also, you get to look at the sad fill job done when they were injection molding these parts in china. Voids, I tell ya!
Any good quality product is 90% prep, so now its time to sand you pretty little heart out. I have some good sandpaper ranging from 80 grit to 600 from Lowes with the tacky backing that is wet sand friendly. Stick it to anything that has a good flat surface, like a countertop or acrylic sheet, and step through the grits until you have a uniform surface. I stopped at 400 grit, need to give the paint something to hold onto.
The next step is to prep the piece to hold your hardware. This was the hardest part of the job, as i don't have a drill press, sturdy vice, or countersinking bits. I hand carved countersunk holes into the part to accommodate the screws with my dremel. It took a lot of eyeballing, but turned out alright.
Initial plans were to measure up the existing hardware and then create a CAD model of a plug that would fill the void after the hook was removed. Turns out that the hook is actually a 3 piece assembly; there is the hook, a center structural piece, and the base support. This is a write up for how to modify the base support to create a clean-looking hook eliminator.
The parts you will need are the disassembled hook base support and two new screws, metric M6 - 1.0 x 30mm (Home Depot). The stock screw is very long and will be too long to reuse. Additionally, a flat head that can sink in and create a smooth look is preferable.
So the base support has two spacer protrusions that give the hook its elevation from the surface of the bed side and allow it to stay ridged when pulled on with help from the mounting bolt. These will need to be removed, and I used a basic hand saw to cut them off. I didn't worry about damage to the surface, as the next step was sanding away imperfections anyways.
After removing both protrusions, you might realize at this point that there is no going back and you have ruined the piece and if you want the hooks back then you need to find a junkyard! Also, you get to look at the sad fill job done when they were injection molding these parts in china. Voids, I tell ya!
Any good quality product is 90% prep, so now its time to sand you pretty little heart out. I have some good sandpaper ranging from 80 grit to 600 from Lowes with the tacky backing that is wet sand friendly. Stick it to anything that has a good flat surface, like a countertop or acrylic sheet, and step through the grits until you have a uniform surface. I stopped at 400 grit, need to give the paint something to hold onto.
The next step is to prep the piece to hold your hardware. This was the hardest part of the job, as i don't have a drill press, sturdy vice, or countersinking bits. I hand carved countersunk holes into the part to accommodate the screws with my dremel. It took a lot of eyeballing, but turned out alright.
