1992 premium head unit XLT model

[dmorris]

stopped working a while ago, nothing at all on the display.

so I went to the junk yard found I think a 91 exp and pulled it. The plugs on the back were the same (long thin one for power and squarish one the fits in the middle I presume for the premium amp/speakers).

The part numbers were "nearly" identical. F2SF-195165-DA is the one I pulled from the yard, the orig one was F2SF-195165-DB.

Maybe they are just both bad, I did see on puffed cap on the orig that I replaced, did not fix it. I see a lot of cap both eletrolytic and tantlums which I know can be problems as they age.

Just wondering is it possible that the DA could be good and just not the same wiring? I did check for B+ at both the radio and memory (switched and always on) and B- at the wire that sit between those two. So I know its getting power, and I checked the power with the set plugged in so I know its not getting dragged down by a load.

One last thing that I found odd was some resistance reading from the chassis ground/to radio ground between the sets, very different numbers, same with the radio+ and memory+ to radio ground, again very different readings.

I don't know if sams does photofact or if it would even be worth it considering all the SMT stuff. So I am guessing trying to fix is prob not in the cards. I just hate buying junk from wally world for this but I don't want to spend any more on it since its basically just my trash hauler, and I would like to occasionally turn on the radio when not having to watch out for all the distracted drivers.

 

[Roadrunner777]

The last segment of ford part numbers indicates revision... a DB is newer than a DA. The wiring will be identical.

I replaced mine years ago, kept the original radio for a long time and eventually tossed it. I would have sent it to you for the price of shipping. Maybe if you let this thread simmer for a bit someone else might step up.

 

[dmorris]

sounds like a plan. I have been looking over some installs of aftermaket, looks like a headache with the amp and all. I did the tach fix so that worked well and as long as I had the panel pulled I decided to tackle the dead radio. It was odd how the new one pulsed a few times before dying you could see the display faintly then fade away.

Normally I would try to fix things but this vintage is just too new.

I like to work on old electronics that I can see the parts on.

https://www.youtube.com/my_videos?o=U

enjoy working on the exp as well just have not done much lately. I did the front suspension bushings, brakes, and a few other misc things, but have not been active lately. The poor exp was looking sad, so decided to start fixing it up some.

 

[Benjam]

Where are you located?

Benjam

 

[dmorris]

soggy central Florida. Needless to say I just to the air working again as well.
Just updated my profile.

 

[Wolfie_85]

Install of an aftermarket radio is cake. Just get the right wiring harnesses (not that expensive). You could find a stereo on ebay pretty cheap, if all you want is AM/FM and a CD player. But yeah, stereo install should really only take about a half hour or so. Perhaps less. But I can't stress enough, don't just hard-wire it. Get the harnesses. It's faster, easier, and better than slicing up your truck's wiring and trying to figure out what does what.

I put a JVC head unit in my '94 XLT that had factory premium sound, replaced all four speakers. The most time spent was on taking door panels off and all of it took an hour or so including pitting back together and cleanup.

 

[Wolfie_85]

And it's such a remote possibility that this is the issue, and you probably already checked, but fuses?

 

[dmorris]

getting power at the term connector, both always on and switched.
Is there an internal fuse on the radio?

There is some kind of plastic block where the plugs go in, I can't seem to remove it even though it looks like it should be. I was wondering if there is some kind of fusible link in there. I get a very high resistance reading, in the megaohms when checking the radio power line (3 tab) to the radio ground (2 tab) on the block for the power connections (this is on the radio of course).

I check the power with the radio installed just to be sure the 12v was not dropping after plugging in.



Not to worry no way I will hack up the wire harness if I end up going after market.

I was concerned about the fitting of an after market into the factory slot.

 

[dmorris]

funny just got off the phone with another salvage yard, guy says "a 92 explorer really" did not have one. I thought the "really" was a nice touch.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I'm actually replacing my aftermarket radio tonight... I will spend more than 1/2 hour just prepping the harness (I solder and heatshrink everything, which might be compulsive to some but troubleshooting a loose connection in 30 below weather is seriously nasty, I have done it more than once.)

If you go aftermarket be aware of the role the factory amp plays, you will need to wire a power-enable to it. Not a big deal, most aftermarket has a lead for it. I'm actually going for a mech-less unit, no CD player. Much less expensive and fits better. You can use any radio that fits a 1 DIN slot, which is the defacto standard. You should be reading the posts in the audio section of this website.

 

[Wolfie_85]

The stock radios don't have any fuse that's easy to get to from what i've seen. If it did, it likely wouldn't be worth the trouble. If you get power to the wires, fuse isn't the problem. The Ford radios seem to have a common issue with the displays going out. Unless you really want a OEM unit, I would go aftermarket. Salvage yards occasionally have some aftermarket radios (another cheap way to get one). I would test it before you buy, though. Same goes for a factory unit. Take your truck so you can hook it up if they can't test it themselves in front of you. Online really is the best source for either, though. As most sellers will actually say whether or not it works. Check out their feedback.

Crutchfield.com is great, as you can get a cheap unit and, most of the time, free install gear with it (harnesses, factory amp adapters, etc.). Last I saw, $89 is the ballpark for starting prices if you don't need anything fancy. You enter your vehicle info, and they show you what you need and what you need to know. If you snag an aftermarket unit from a salvage yard, take the harnesses too. Easy at a pull-it-yourself place. Bam, plug and play!

 

[Wolfie_85]

Oh yeah, Roadrunner. Solder is for sure the best. I used just heatshrink connectors on my last install, though. Not sure if I might upgrade soon, so I decided to forego the solder. So, dmorris, the connection method is up to you. But at minimum, I recommend heatshrink connectors. If you got time and a soldering iron, this is also good. Just taping or capping is, from experience, not the best.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I have used crutchfield too, they are an excellent reference for radios even if you don't get them there... but I have bought a few, and speakers too.

That said, there is a great Refurb'd JVC selling on the E for $77 free shipping. It is Bluetooth and Ieverything ready, variable display color too. I don't actually use a cell phone much so it's a lot of bells and whistles left unused. I'm installing that one tonight.

But, I wish I were not. I bought it because I thought I blew a channel on my old Kenwood. Turns out one of the wires went open from the explorer amp location to the speaker. So, now I have 2 stereos and 1 vehicle... and pros and cons to both units. I guess I'll use each one for a few weeks and stash the other for a bad day.

And, I have been on the E several times since last night... I can't believe it... there are NO 1st gen stock radios for sale at any price.

 

[Wolfie_85]

And a standard aftermarket, I forgot to mention, will fit perfectly. It's single DIN. And aftermarket will have a metal sleeve around it. There are tabs on it that you bend out to secure it in your dash. Then just slide the radio into its sleeve after connecting the wires, and you're done!

 

[dmorris]

ok think I will head out to wally world soon.

But do I need to install the bypass on the amp? I would assume so unless modern aftermarket radios have the correct level outputs to go with the ford amp. I am concerned that the amp could be bad anyway.

So
do I pull the side panel (ouch that looks to be a pita) where I assume the amp hides, install the bypass, OR

if possible leave the amp alone make sure I have a compatible output level and I assume I can get the harness that make this a plug and play.

this is making the window regulator look easy (that was fun, did that a few years ago, made up my own 3 plastic rollers after seeing what the ford dealer wanted). I did them all for the cost of some scrap plastic round stock.

 

[Wolfie_85]

You will need the amp adapter. It is well worth it.

 

[Wolfie_85]

And everything you need to access is in the dash. Don't bypass the amp, get an adapter and use it.

 

[dmorris]

now I am confused, lets recap:
two ways:

option 1:
new radio does not have low level for amp (I assume its lower than normal speaker power).
A)by pass amp located behind rear quarter (using bypass harness plug and play) so I can direct drive the speakers
B)using harness (plug and play)at dash connect sqaure and skinny plug adapter to new radio. So I have a harness adapter in the dash and in the rear quarter

option 2:
new radio does have correct low lever driver outputs
then only need the one plug and play adapter at dash for square and skinny. So I only have the dash harness adapter.

Sorry if I am being obtuse, just don't want to goof up and get something that makes it hard to finish the job.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Having just walked in the door from installing the amp jumper, it's not THAT terrible if you have someone to hold it aside while you work... it's like a door that always wants to shut.

But, you may see things you wish you had not. I pulled back the panel and the sheetmetal is completely gone, staring right at the tire.

 

[Wolfie_85]

The adapter I have is in the dash. It hooks up to the square (ish) smaller connector. I did not have to remove the side panel in the rear at all. It allows me to utilize the factory amp.