1994 XLT value question

[Anthony_Mc]

Hello,

First post on the forums here.

I've never owned an Explorer. There seem to be quite a few for sale at reasonable prices. I am looking to purchase used as I cannot afford to buy anything remotely pricey.

I am looking at a 94 XLT tomorrow.

85K miles. Needs to have alternator replaced and seller says needs a tail pipe.

It seems to be very low on the miles for a 94. Is it possible to verify the mileage on the vehicle. The pictures he sent me look good. Seller says there is a bit of rust on a bumper and one of the wheel wells...other then that he says it's in very good condition.

He is asking $1300 for said vehicle. It seems like the price is almost too good to me. Am I being naive in thinking this?

Is there anything I should be specifically looking for when I look at this explorer? I am not overly mechanically inclined, but am not clueless when it comes to vehicles.

The low miles are very attractive to me but it almost seems to good to be true.

I'd appreciate any comments or advice that is given concerning my questions or the vehicle in general.

I currently have a 94 jeep cherokee with 217K miles and just about completely rusted out.

Thank you in advance for any help or advice given.

Ant

 

[Iron Weasel]

It's entirely possible that it has 85k original miles on it. Unlikely, but possible. Unfortunately, there's really no way to tell by checking the vehicle itself, and if you're really interested in the vehicle, I'd run a Carfax check on it and see what mileage shows up there. The alternator on the first gen Explorers are pretty easy to replace, maybe 30 - 45 minutes if you take your time.

Other than that, common things to look for would be:

A) Transmission: Manuals (M5OD-R1) are far more reliable on the first gen that the automatics, but the slave cylinders can be kinda flaky sometimes and they might require replacement every two or three years depending on how had you are on the clutch. The automatics (A4LD) are very temperamental....if you treat them exceptionally well then they'll last quite a while. Most people, however, don't baby the transmission on these trucks and the A4LD transmissions are prone to fail at pretty much any time for any reason.

B) Transfer case shift motor: The transfer case on these is usually an electric shift, though there are some (rare) that are a manual shift like on your XJ. The most common problem is that a little nylon bushing inside the shift motor breaks and causes the shift motor to become "lost" and it won't shift out of 2H. Easy way to diagnose this one is to simply push the 4x4 button on the dash. There's a LED next to the button and a "4x4" light on the lower right section of the instrument panel that should light up when 4Hi is engaged. You should also be able to hear a "click" noise from the rear driver cargo area. If the lights come on for a second or two and then turn back off, that bushing in the shift motor has likely broken.

It's an easy fix provided you have basic tools, mechanical knowledge, and can follow simple directions.

C) Automatic Hublocks (auto hubs): Take a look at the front hubs. See that sticker that says "4X4" on it. Those are the auto hubs - they are the devil. They don't work for crap on the rare occasion that they work at all. If you're not planning on taking it off-road, don't worry about the auto hubs. If you do plan on some off-road action, do yourself a favor and replace those god awful auto hubs with some manual locking hubs.

 

[Reejerey]

Carfax might give you a better idea as too mileage, as will wear on brake pedals.

1300 sounds pretty accurate for a price, but check www.kbb.com for a blue book price on it if you're really concerned.

The auto trans pretty much sucks, the manual is far better, but does slave cylinder and shift rail issues. the shift rails have some rubber plugs on them at the rear of the shift rail housing on top of the trans, those plugs are prone to leaking or just falling out all together. you can either silicone them in or replace them with a metal freeze plug.

The auto hubs are garbage, and expensive as hell to replace. Summit racing has mile marker manual hubs on sale right now for 88.00 a pair, definitely worth it if you're gonna wheel it.

I can't really think of any other common issues with our explorers.

My perfect ex would be a first gen 2 door with a manual trans, lever shift tcase, and manual hubs.

 

[huntman58]

X2 to what Iron Weasel said above!

The price is on the high end but it’s also all what you feel good about also my self I would try my hardest to get it for less if any thing shows up like a carfax higher miles report which I think it would show.
Here is a list of things I have replaced or fixed in my 13 years owning my 1993 explorer it may give you some ideas on what to look for or what to maybe plan on down the line. It dose not include normal wear items like plugs and the like. It’s like flipping a coin some times ya win and some times you don’t but good luck no matter what

Must do repairs to keep truck drivable
==========================================================

Tranny
Two bad rebuilds (2003 one I paid for the other one was a warrantee job as tranny blew up in less then 3,000 miles)
One good one (2007.For got how many miles but it was over 170,000 miles)
Warn Manual hubs ( stock manual hub blew up bearings could not find bearings so replaced the set with the better Warn hubs)
Brake rotors 2x (stocks lasted a long time then warped. Auto zones warped with in less then 1,000 miles! Last time drilled ones and there the best so far better stopping and longer wear to date)
Radius bushings
Radiator
Heater core x2
Water pump
Thermostat x2
Hoses upper and lower plus heater
Fan clutch (heavy duty Hayden)
Ignition lock on steering column
Evaporator and orifice tube with accumulator(A/C converted to 134 from R12)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Repair Mods done for improvement of running in MPG/ Power or longer life.
==========================================================
Air tube from air cleaner to TB (Mine had hole in it on the bottom new one came from Junk yard)
Swiss cheesed air box (free)
K and N flat air filter (plus 2 MPG increase)
TB half shaft mod (seamed to help WOT.)
Accel coil
Stock MAF housing to 70mm housing ( hurt MPG because of lead footites I caught from it LOL)
Single Universal Cat (2002)
Cat back system with muffler and 2 1/2 pipes done 2002
Stronger battery

 

[IronCamel]

My 94 XLT has the manual hubs, manual shift transfer case, and manual transmission. The thing is practically bulletproof. I've only had two issues in 8 years that meant I couldn't drive the vehicle for a day or two. The first was a U-Joint replacement, and the second was a water pump and manifold gasket blowing out. Other than that it has been regular maintenance. I wouldn't give mine up for anything.

As far as the mileage though, the dial only has 5 whole number spaces so there is no difference between 85K, 185K, 285K on the dial. All of them will show 85K because there is no hundred thousands place available. Without some kind of external record, I would assume that the one you are looking at probably has 185K.

 

[Anthony_Mc]

Thanks to all the replies and advice.

I passed on the vehicle.

Went and checked it out. Engine looked good, but ran rough. Kid said it was because of alternator needing to be replaced.

A muffler had been put on that wasn't the correct size (or something to that matter he said) and would need to be replaced also.

It was in good condition body wise. Some rust around license plate on rear bumper and a very little spot on one rear wheel well.

I car faxed it and the mileage was true.

Brakes went down too and would have to be replaced pretty soon as well.

I asked to take it for a drive but he said he was afraid it would conk out if we got any distance away and then he'd be screwed. So I drove it back and forth on the driveway....maybe 50-60 feet. I dunno...it just ran so rough. Had no pick me up at all. I was concerned there was something else wrong with it or would be soon after I had purchased it.

He had just tuned it up..new wires/plugs/oil etc...I figured something with 85K miles just tuned up would run much better then it did, so I ended up passing on it. My Jeep Cherokee with 217K miles engine runs better imo then this Ex did.

Disappointing to say the least.

I'm not really sure what made it run so rough....any ideas??

Once again...thank you for the replies, advice, and insight.

Very much appreciated.

Ant

 

[huntman58]

Ruff running could be simple as a dirty MAF to other more costly items and best to know that kind of auto better to make the calls in your favor or take some one along that dose to help you.

Not being able to take it for a drive would scare me at that price also but from what you’re saying it dose sound like there may have been some hidden stuff or he really did not know what he had or how to work on it. The muffler thing sounds a bit strange to me also. the brakes going down at 85,000 mile if that is the right miles they could be the OE pads and so being they would be worn a lot and that would make the peddle travel far and almost to the floor but a second fast pump on it would give normal or close to it brakes and they should be hard and stay that way tell you let up on it. Just some thoughts for down the road.