1999 Explorer power locks.....broken,

[Zack1978]

Hi everyone,
The power locks on my 99 Explorer have gone crazy. The locks just keeping locking themselves and cycling. It was doing it so much that it drained the battery. I have pulled the fuse to stop it for the moment but it is not fixed...I did a search and some people discussed a splice issue. Any ideas ? I need to fix this truck soon



Thanks,
Zack

 

[Zack1978]

Bump....

 

[bobflood]

Hi everyone,
The power locks on my 99 Explorer have gone crazy. The locks just keeping locking themselves and cycling. It was doing it so much that it drained the battery. I have pulled the fuse to stop it for the moment but it is not fixed...I did a search and some people discussed a splice issue. Any ideas ? I need to fix this truck soon
Thanks,
Zack

First place to check is in the wire bundle between the body and driver's door - very common to get broken wires in there. There is also a well know problem with a splice in the wiring channel under the driver side rear door trim. Good luck.

 

[Zack1978]

First place to check is in the wire bundle between the body and driver's door - very common to get broken wires in there. There is also a well know problem with a splice in the wiring channel under the driver side rear door trim. Good luck.

Well I checked the bundle under the rear door sill plate, and I found the wire splice, however it seems very solid. I put the fuse back in while I had the wires exposed, and moved the wires around, and it didn't change anything, so I assume that the splice is not the issue.
Now I guess I will check the door bundle. I am almost afraid to touch the door bundle, because I know that the power windows have been fixed twice already as a result of the door bundle wires. I hope when I open that up, I don't break anything.

Zack

 

[Zack1978]

Since the splice looked ok and when I was playing with the splice nothing changed, am I to assume that the splice is fine? Or should I re splice the wires anyway?

Thanks,
Zack

 

[1996BLKBauer]

My splice looked fine, but then I cut off the heat shrink, and it was a different story, it was green dust, none of the wires where getting connection.

 

[budwich]

BUT the OP's problem isn't that he is NOT getting a connection, his problem is that he is getting "random continuous connections" to ground. IF the splice area insulation is OK, he needs to look elsewhere. As he is thinking, a good "guess" is the front door post.

The splice "quality" will only be an issue IF your locks aren't working from a given switch / run.... unless the whole thing is sitting in water...

 

[Zack1978]

BUT the OP's problem isn't that he is NOT getting a connection, his problem is that he is getting "random continuous connections" to ground. IF the splice area insulation is OK, he needs to look elsewhere. As he is thinking, a good "guess" is the front door post.

The splice "quality" will only be an issue IF your locks aren't working from a given switch / run.... unless the whole thing is sitting in water...

Good point, you are correct in that all of my locks work they are just going crazy. I noticed yesterday that they are just attempting to lock at all times....not unlock. While this is happening, if you hit the lock switch it will stop the cycling.....until you release the switch. So do I actually have a wiring issue since they are all getting power?


Thanks,
Zack

 

[budwich]

"hit the lock"... you mean "hold the switch in the lock direction"... this causes them to "temporary" stop... That's because you are putting a "hard ground" on the circuit as opposed to a "temporary/random" one. Your problem IS NOT a powering issue... its a grounding issue.... and its only on those wirings associated with "locking" (which are separate from those of "unlocking"....

As indicated, you likely have a wire problem in the door post.... especially since you have already "been there done that" for other problems... :-( Basically go where there is "smoke"......

 

[Zack1978]

"hit the lock"... you mean "hold the switch in the lock direction"... this causes them to "temporary" stop... That's because you are putting a "hard ground" on the circuit as opposed to a "temporary/random" one. Your problem IS NOT a powering issue... its a grounding issue.... and its only on those wirings associated with "locking" (which are separate from those of "unlocking"....

As indicated, you likely have a wire problem in the door post.... especially since you have already "been there done that" for other problems... :-( Basically go where there is "smoke"......

Ok thanks! Any tips on working in the door bundle wires? The two times that the windows have been fixed a shop has done the work. It looks like a tight squeeze in there. I remember the last time the power windows broke the mechanic said there was a very small of wire to work with to splice them back together.

Zack

 

[budwich]

This IS "brain surgery"... I haven't been there on a ford but my S10 had the same issue a long time ago, no room, no slack.... work slowly, "gently"... in most cases the wire breaks are pretty obvious... at least from posts herein. In your case, you are looking for "shiners" (ie. where you can see wire thru the insulation).... that are touching metal or other bare wires. I would certainly take off the door panel and look around there first to ensure there isn't any wiring that was "disturbed" from previous "work".

 

[yavapaires]

Ok thanks! Any tips on working in the door bundle wires? The two times that the windows have been fixed a shop has done the work. It looks like a tight squeeze in there. I remember the last time the power windows broke the mechanic said there was a very small of wire to work with to splice them back together.

Zack

I would look behind the drivers side kick panelbefore going into the door. And check the connector on the door. Connector is held together with bolt from the top. There is a lot of twisting of the wires in this area.

 

[Zack1978]

I would look behind the drivers side kick panelbefore going into the door. And check the connector on the door. Connector is held together with bolt from the top. There is a lot of twisting of the wires in this area.

When you say connector, do you mean the the wires where the switch connects? If so I checked that yesterday and it seemed ok. What or where is the bolt that you are talking about?

And thank you all for attempting to help me solve this annoying issue!

Zack

 

[bobflood]

When you say connector, do you mean the the wires where the switch connects? If so I checked that yesterday and it seemed ok. What or where is the bolt that you are talking about?

And thank you all for attempting to help me solve this annoying issue!

Zack

I did this about 18 mos ago. It is a PITA, especially with big hands, but it is doable. BTW, most likely area for problem is the driver's door bundle, but the ground could be coming from any of the doors or the tailgate. Look first and see if any of the door bundles are damaged - that would be place to start.

- Open the door as far as it will go. Get a stool to sit on; this will take a while.
- Long bolt goes thru the big black connector from the top; think it is 10MM; undoing it will push bottom part of connector down until it comes loose.
- Cut wire tie off top of rubber boot on lower part of connector (the one that has the wires going back into the body, I believe).
- Peel back rubber boot; see if you can use vise grips or some other locking plier to keep boot back. Look for broken wires/scorch marks/shiny wires as budwich suggested. Door lock wire is pink/yellow.
- Very little slack, so plan on splicing in new chunk of wire. Solder and shrink tube is best way to go if you can; otherwise use black plastic tape for insulation. No room for squeeze connectors.
- Test before you roll boot back over wire bundle!!
- Use a new wire tie to attach boot around connector.
- Reassemble connector.
- Enjoy your working locks!
I put up with a dead "lock" button on driver's door for years for a broken wire in the driver's door bundle (I'm 6'3 and could just reach across to pass side button) - until my munchkin wife started driving vehicle regularly. Then if got fiixed!! Good luck.

 

[Zack1978]

I would look behind the drivers side kick panelbefore going into the door. And check the connector on the door. Connector is held together with bolt from the top. There is a lot of twisting of the wires in this area.

If the weather is ok on Friday, I will try to remove the kick panel. I think that will be an easy first step before I touch the door harness bundle.


Zack

 

[yavapaires]

If the weather is ok on Friday, I will try to remove the kick panel. I think that will be an easy first step before I touch the door harness bundle.


Zack

Open the door. There is a large cylinder looking connector with a bolt on top. It is fastened to the door. At least that is on my 96. Hopefully yours is the same. I had a lock problem, and found a broken wire down at the bottom of the kick panel. Spliced in a new wire from thefloor to the connector. Look for bare wires in your instance. Good luck.