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2-way radio Installation experience on late-model Explorer XLT

Bobs2018ExplorerSport

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 4, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
99
Location
USA
City, State
Livermore, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2018 Explorer Sport 4WD
Callsign
KD6ANY
I thought I'd share my own experiences with installing a trunk-mounted Motorola PM1500 VHF 2-Way Radio in my own 2018 Explorer XLT, in the hope that it helps anyone else considering doing a similar project. I do volunteer work with our local fire departments, and am also a ham radio operator; hence my wanting to use commercial-grade radio equipment.

The first thing I discovered was that there didn't appear to be any pass-thru in the firewall, to run the hot lead from the battery back to the radio, nor to power the separate control head. Because the transverse-mounted engine is so closely located against the firewall, I was reluctant to even try to drill any pass-thru holes, nor could I seem to find any existing cables or similar items passing-thru the firewall that I might also squeeze a heavy power lead through. Instead, I ultimately ended-up running my hot lead all the way from the rear cargo area to the battery by running it in the sill cable troughs until I got to the driver's position; then drilled a hole and ran it down underneath this area. Once that wire was hanging down below the car, I then fished it up through the LF fender well, and up into the engine compartment. While not an ideal way to get battery power to an accessory such as this, at least the only exposed part of the wire is a piece about 6" long, where it drops below and then heads up over the inside of the wheel well. (It is of course, fused, and encased in convoluted tubing and grommets, for chafing protection).

I was able to mount the control head and mic just in front of the driver's seat (see pic), using a modified version of a base plate for a police computer pole mount. I also mounted the actual radio unit in the rear cargo area, using a Setina PIU equipment mounting tray (see pic) that fits over the spare tire well.

Lastly, I mounted a standard VHF NMO-mount antenna on the roof, but only fairly close to the rear end of the roof's sheet metal (see pic). This was because I found it VERY difficult to even begin to force the one-piece headliner downward, so I forced it down and drilled my antenna hole where I could at least barely get to it; not a problem, though, as VSWR is still low and within acceptable limits for a 100-watt radio.

The bottom line is that running hot leads, installing rooftop antennas, and the physical mounting of radios and/or mics can be a daunting task on these particular vehicles... so be prepared to use your creativity, all while also testing your patience!
 

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Thanks for sharing the tutorial.

Do you have any issue moving the driver's seat forward with the control head and mike there?
 






Good question!

Yes, originally, if you moved the seat all the way forward, it would start to contact the control head when the seat still had about another 3/4" of forward travel available to it, on its seat track.

I solved this issue by drilling a hole on the top edge of the track, and threading-in a machine-screw, so that the seat now hits the bolt and as a result, it stops just short of beginning to contact the control head. While I personally always drive with the seat all the way back, I took this action because my local car wash people just love to crank the seat all the way forward; I guess it makes it easier for them to really get up in there to wipe-down the slanted windshield. At least now, that's no longer a concern.
 






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