2000 Explorer Sport - Check Engine Light Not Working

[avidmar1978]

In troubleshooting some other issues, I learned that my Check Engine Light and Check Fuel Cap aren't working. There is also a light out at the top of my speedometer. All gauges are working, and all other lights are working. I attempted to get behind the instrument panel to check the bulbs, but that is a task too big for me to muster. On these, you have to remove the steering wheel and lower the steering column. No thanks.

I turned my efforts to the wiring, hoping I would be able to trace this to some accessible wires. I checked out a wiring diagram see that wires for these lights work their way into the PCM, so I started digging around up there. I found a nice reference photo of the PCM here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2469168&postcount=8

Notice the Green and Blue arrows in the pics on that link. Now take a look at mine:

Apparently the previous owner had a thing for clipping wires...

How should I go about re-grounding this, since I'm missing both the bolt it should be grounded into, as well as the grounding strap?

 

[FIND]

You don't have to remove the steering wheel and lower the column to get at them. It fits out without doing that, I've done if a few times now. Use the lever to lower your steering wheel to its lowest position, set your parking brake and shift into low gear, then tip the cluster so you can unplug the wire harnesses, press the clips to remove the shift indicator and tip the cluster forward and slide it out. Easy peasy.

 

[bobflood]

You don't have to remove the steering wheel and lower the column to get at them. It fits out without doing that, I've done if a few times now. Use the lever to lower your steering wheel to its lowest position, set your parking brake and shift into low gear, then tip the cluster so you can unplug the wire harnesses, press the clips to remove the shift indicator and tip the cluster forward and slide it out. Easy peasy.

+1 on this. I have had the insturment panel out on mine several times. Search this site for directions with pics. In fact, if all you want to do is replace bulbs, you don't even have to pull the IP all the way out. You can unpug the connectors and just rotate it around far enough to get to the bulb holders. Usually takes a set of pliers to break them loose the first time; you can turn them back in with your fingers. If you do this, go ahead and replace all 6 of the illumination bulbs (#194). The warning bulbs are #161. Both are readily available from the auto parts stores. Many folks replace them with LEDs; sites such as superbrightled.com offer plug compatible LEDs in the mounts at a reasonable price.

 

[avidmar1978]

Any thoughts on the ungrounded wires coming out of the PCM?

I'm not eager to pull the instrument panel out again, especially if fixing the ground may resolve my issue.

 

[bobflood]

Any thoughts on the ungrounded wires coming out of the PCM?

I'm not eager to pull the instrument panel out again, especially if fixing the ground may resolve my issue.

The grounds obviously needs to be fixed, but I doubt that it will have any bearing on your CEL and Fuel Cap lights. I still bet that you are going to find those bulbs either burned out or removed; sorry - but you are going to have to pull the IP or leave them non-functioning. At the very least, get your codes read to see if you have any and, if you do, what they are.

Will removing your wipers and lifting up the black plastic panel over the wiper linkage allow you access to replace the missing grounding bolt from behind?? You can buy a replacement eye to crimp onto the ends of the wires after you strip them, then bolt it down again.

 

[avidmar1978]

The grounds obviously needs to be fixed, but I doubt that it will have any bearing on your CEL and Fuel Cap lights. I still bet that you are going to find those bulbs either burned out or removed; sorry - but you are going to have to pull the IP or leave them non-functioning. At the very least, get your codes read to see if you have any and, if you do, what they are.

Will removing your wipers and lifting up the black plastic panel over the wiper linkage allow you access to replace the missing grounding bolt from behind?? You can buy a replacement eye to crimp onto the ends of the wires after you strip them, then bolt it down again.

Hmm, I haven't checked to see if that would work or not. I'll take a look next time I'm working on it.

 

[avidmar1978]

+1 on this. I have had the insturment panel out on mine several times. Search this site for directions with pics.

Found this thread, posting it for future reference:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240166&highlight=cluster+lights

 

[bobflood]

Found this thread, posting it for future reference:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240166&highlight=cluster+lights

Very good instructions. A few additional comments, however:
- In the first two steps - on mine, you do not have to remove the radio or undo the right hand plugs. If you take out the two screws below the radio, you can pull the bezel out and slide it far enought to the right to unmask the two screws on the right of the IP trim.
- Step 3 - that plastic trim piece has to pull staight out from the front, not downward as seems logical.
- Step 4 - I had more than three screws; and I found that you do not have to take them all the way out. Just loosen them enought that the metal plate drops far enought to unmask the two screws in the IP trim.
Step 5 on - It helps to tilt the wheel all the way down, and to put the shift lever all the way down.
Step 7 - I have no "rear parking assist" so no wires on right side of IP bezel.
Step 9 - I have never taken the shift indicator off. At this point, once the wiring harnesses are unpluged you can rotate the IP to the left and get at the bulb holders in the back.

Good luck!!

 

[2000StreetRod]

buy the stud

. . .
Apparently the previous owner had a thing for clipping wires...

How should I go about re-grounding this, since I'm missing both the bolt it should be grounded into, as well as the grounding strap?

Either buy the stud from the dealer or pick one up at a salvage yard. There should be a nut welded to the inside of the firewall for the stud to screw into. Splice a solder lug into the two wires after installing a length of heat shrink. I haven't checked the wiring diagrams but I agree that adding the ground will probably not fix your CEL.

 

[avidmar1978]

As you suspected, it didn't fix anything. I ran some wire to the bolt holding the hood hinge in place for the time being.

 

[avidmar1978]

Finally got around to replacing the CEL bulb, after practicing on an Explorer at the salvage yard. Strangely enough, after I verified it worked, the CEL didn't come on for the first day, but has been on for the last two days.

I'm sure the fact that my O2 sensor wire harness is melted through is the main culprit.

 

[budwich]

you might get more assurance if you indicate what the codes are that you are seeing.

 

[avidmar1978]

I had them checked, but wasn't given the exact codes. He said something about the O2 reading and recommended new plugs and wires.

I plan to get the exact codes on my next trip to the auto parts store, but I may end up fixing the melted wire harness first.