2000 SOHC No Start unless pedal to floor

[Hoppy]

Hi all,

Prognosis: wife calls me at work to tell me the Ex wouldn't start. Turns over but does not fire. She smells fuel when she is finished trying to start it.

I try it later in the day, same results, but it is trying to start. I hold the gas pedal to the floor and it begins to start, and then finally does fire up and idles roughly until I flog it a little bit then idles smooth. I shut it down and try to start it again without the gas pedal. It tries, sputters and finally after 10 seconds I press the pedal to the floor again and it fires up sputtering again until I flog it and runs fine once again.

Figuring it may be fuel related, I hook up my fuel pressure gauge and it is reading 60 psi without the engine on but ignition on. I restart the engine with the same previous results as starting prior, did not start till holding it to the floor. Once idling smoothly again I check the fuel pressure. Still 60 psi. 60 psi, no matter what I do with the throttle.

That said, once it warmed up the engine started no problem every time. We went out for dinner with the Explorer, it sat enought to cool down and did start up ok. I tried a couple times to see if it would hesitate and once it did out of 4 or 5 tries.

So, with all that said, it leads me to believe either a sensor is gone for the ignition to not fire correctly, or it is fuel related in way of the regulator not dropping the pressure down to about 40 PSI on idle, and it is flooding the engine.

Help! Has anyone had a similar problem in the past? Should I start with the crankshaft sensor? Camshaft sensor? Fuel presure regulator?

Thanks guys,

Hoppy.

 

[James909]

It sounds like the engine is flooding. Your fuel pressure is about right for the returnless system so I don't think it's the FPR. I'm leaning towards a bad ECT or a sticking IAC.

 

[Hoppy]

Thanks James,

Before I start replacing sensors, how can I be sure it is the ECT or IAC?

I will take off the IAC and see if it is dirty, but it has to be ok because when it is warm, or after revving her up she idles perfect.

One thing in the past, not saying it is the problem, but my Parent's had a 91 Explorer and it had a hard start issue. It would crank over for over 10 seconds before she would fire. I at that time had a 92 Ex, and did a bit of research. I tried the crankshaft sensor that was in my ex in my parents. It then started right away. Put theirs in mine for a try and mine had the over 10 second starting issue. This is why I am leaning towards the crank or cam sensors, but the problem is a bit different.

I realize this is an 00 model and lots have changed. Especially the SOHC. Not only that, I didn't realize this was a returnless fuel system.

Did anyone have this problem before?

 

[Nytroman]

i just fixed an explorer that came in with the same problem, all i did was cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body, it might be a nice place to start

 

[Hoppy]

I did that this past summer. I used electronics cleaner on the MAF Sensor, but will try that again too as it is an easy one like the IAC.

Hoppy

 

[Hoppy]

I just cleaned the IAC, which was not very dirty.

I also cleaned the MAF sensor which was not dirty at all.

Engine was still a bit warm because it was in my garage, and it started A1 after this.

I will see how it starts in the mornng and report. I will use it to go to work tomorrow and see how it starts in the morning and report back.

Thanks thus far!

Hoppy.

 

[James909]

Thanks James,

Before I start replacing sensors, how can I be sure it is the ECT or IAC?

I will take off the IAC and see if it is dirty, but it has to be ok because when it is warm, or after revving her up she idles perfect.

One thing in the past, not saying it is the problem, but my Parent's had a 91 Explorer and it had a hard start issue. It would crank over for over 10 seconds before she would fire. I at that time had a 92 Ex, and did a bit of research. I tried the crankshaft sensor that was in my ex in my parents. It then started right away. Put theirs in mine for a try and mine had the over 10 second starting issue. This is why I am leaning towards the crank or cam sensors, but the problem is a bit different.

I realize this is an 00 model and lots have changed. Especially the SOHC. Not only that, I didn't realize this was a returnless fuel system.

Did anyone have this problem before?

While the CKP or CMP could cause a no start condition like this I don't feel that's the problem because flooring the throttle would not cause it to start if there was a problem with either of these sensors. The fact that your wife smelled gas after trying to start it leads me to believe that the truck's flooding. That and the fact that flooring the throttle starts the truck. By flooring the pedal you are telling the pcm that a flood condition is present and it stops the injectors from firing, therefore the engine starts. To check the sensors I would start by taking off the IAC and cleaning it. Then warm the truck up and check the resistance of the ECT to see if it's within spec. BrooklynBay has a chart with the resistances in his list of useful threads.

 

[James909]

Here is BrooklynBay's chart with the resistances for the ECT.

 

[Hoppy]

James,

Thank you so much for the info, similarily, brooklynbay.

How do I check the voltage? And which one is the ECT? Passenger side has a RED wire and BLACK wire coming out of it, the one on the Drivers Side has a Grey and Green wire coming out of it. Which one is which, and do I test which wire to ground, or where for a voltage reading as well as a resistance reading?

 

[James909]

Here is a really good description on how to check the ECT that I found on Autozone's website. The ECT should have a gray connector and the other sensor which is for the temp gauge should have a tan connector.

 

[Hoppy]

EDIT: I just tried now at lunch and it sputtered again.

Well, started it this morning and no problem whatsoever.

I may still change the ECT sensor though, just to rule it out. I tried to get a resistance measurement off it last night but it was pretty hard to get to and didn't get my probes on it to get a good reading.

 

[Hoppy]

Well, I changed the ECT last night, and thermostat since I had to remove it to get to the ECT and it started fine this morning and has since yesterday.

Are there any other things that could cause this hard starting condition?

I have already done the following:

Cleaned the MAF Sensor
Cleaned the IAC valve
Cleaned the throttle body
Replaced the ECT and Thermostat.

Hoppy.

 

[Cobraguy]

Sounds like you may have it fixed. Leave it alone! LOL

 

[Hoppy]

HaHa!

I haven't been able to troubleshoot any of my vehicles lately! They have been very reliable!

 

[Nytroman]

maybe run some fuel injector cleaner through the tank for good measure

 

[Htown451]

this might be my problem, how do you change the ect?

 

[Hoppy]

I had to remove the thermostat housing to get to the ECT.

First drain about two gallons of coolant out of the radiator.

Take 3 10mm headed bolts out and then remove the clamp at the metal tube on the upper rad hose. Remove the housing and thermostat.

Then disconnect the wiring clip and using a 19mm wrench remove the ect.

I put some of that gasket sealer on the threads of the ECT before installing it.

This should usually be a 10 minute job, but because the thermostat has to come out and the rad needs draining it took about an hour and a half. Simple job though.

 

[Deak]

This should e a 15-min job if you follow the ford service manual. The manual mentions nothing about the thermostat in the way along with the plastic intake manifold. All they say is drain it down pull out the air intake tube and replace the sensor. What side is the radiator drain on I couldn't locate that either. I thought it was on the passenger side. Anyway the hoses are at least 6 years old. I'll just let the mechanic change it out. and he can do the hoses on it. With it being winter I hate to tear into anything went its cold nasty and wet outside.


So much for saving a couple of bucks

Deak