2000 XLT cold weather idling on startup

[Daniel V]

Hey ive got a issue with starting and staying idling in the cold weather.

After a quick search it looks like my most likley culprit is the intake manifold gaskets?


Just looking for a little insight on the mechanical knowledge required to perform this job myself and if anybody has a link handy to some sort of guide.

The CEL is not on.

EDIT: Just to clarify the rig starts up fine but if im not giving it gas until it warms up it struggles and wants to die

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

First thing I would check is make sure the ECT sensor and AIT sensors are sending the correct values to the ECM/PCM, these are most important especially when cold starting to get the right amount of fuel during cold weather. A simple hand held scanner/code reader that displays live engine data will show these figures.

 

[Daniel V]

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First thing I would check is make sure the ECT sensor and AIT sensors are sending the correct values to the ECM/PCM, these are most important especially when cold starting to get the right amount of fuel during cold weather. A simple hand held scanner/code reader that displays live engine data will show these figures.

Any recommendations on the unit to pick up for these tests?

 

[XLTrunner]

Classic symptom of bad intake gaskets. Does idle improve once the engine warms up? If so, that's the gaskets expanding under heat and closing off the vacuum leak.

My experience with a faulty ECT came as a crank/no start on a warm engine. Engine would start and idle fine when cold. It also immediately threw a code and lit up the Check Engine light.

Hate to mention it, but if you are destined to replacing the intake gaskets, may as well take a good look at your thermostat housing and see if it shows signs of leaking (assuming you have the SOHC engine).

 

[Daniel V]

Classic symptom of bad intake gaskets. Does idle improve once the engine warms up? If so, that's the gaskets expanding under heat and closing off the vacuum leak.

My experience with a faulty ECT came as a crank/no start on a warm engine. Engine would start and idle fine when cold. It also immediately threw a code and lit up the Check Engine light.

Hate to mention it, but if you are destined to replacing the intake gaskets, may as well take a good look at your thermostat housing and see if it shows signs of leaking (assuming you have the SOHC engine).

Right! After I read about all the posts about the issue i was having, the gaskets seemed like a no brainer. The idle absolutely improves once its warmed up! Really it was only the first start today that gave me trouble, after that even after resting for a few hours no problems at all.

I guess im just looking for a clear cut guide to this job specifically, tools needed etc. Im essentially a novice for mechanical repairs, I can change the oil, I did a blower motor one time, you get the picture. If I can avoid paying someone to do this and just get the parts and/ or tools and expand my knowledge that would be the preferable path.

Im going to do some more digging on the forums and what not.

XLTrunner, if/when I do this job what should I look for in the thermostat housing? I think the big SOHC under the hood means I have that model

*EDIT* Another question I have is-- Is this hurting my rig? Can I wait until spring/summer when Im not freezing my ass off outside and the budget has improved?

 

[decipha]

no an air or vac leak won't hurt anything so long as the vehicle continues to run fine after its warmed up

just don't go racing it and you'll be fine when the weather is better

 

[XLTrunner]

If you have a thermostat housing leak, you'll see signs of the coolant running down the sides...or, at the bottom where it mounts to the engine. You might also see a puddling beneath the lower intake (on top of the engine). If all looks well, I guess it's a judgement call as to whether you want to tackle this while the upper intake is off as it will start leaking sooner or later. Lots of info on this site regarding this project.

Not much needed in the way of special tools if just replacing the intake gaskets. You'll need a T25, T27 & T30 torx socket. I go with a 1/4" socket wrench & 6" extension as it makes it easier to get at those inner and rearward torx bolts. Use the T30 socket (I've sometimes had to use the T27 as there is often corrosion/grime inside the head of the bolt that prevents the T30 from getting a good "bite"). But, one must take care to not let the socket tip slip inside the bolt head if it's particularly snug as it will round it out and make removing it a real challenge. Key is downward pressure while turning the socket. Anyway, the T25 is to remove a couple of sensor mtg bolts on the passenger side of the upper intake for easier removal of the intake. BTW...there are (8) torx bolts securing the upper intake...(3) on either end and (2) staggered in the middle.

Don't recall the size of the mtg bolts securing the lower intake. I believe they are 5/16" (8mm)...but, they are regular hex head bolts and easy to access.

I, and others, have done this job numerous times and it isn't a big deal. I can have both intakes off in less than 30 mins. Some have had problems separating the EGR tube from the upper intake, but I've not had any real problem with that. You'll want to buy a new O-ring for that; along with both upper and lower intake gaskets. Feel free to contact me for details on steps to remove this if you decide to tackle it yourself.

 

[Balke]

Hey ive got a issue with starting and staying idling in the cold weather.

After a quick search it looks like my most likley culprit is the intake manifold gaskets?


Just looking for a little insight on the mechanical knowledge required to perform this job myself and if anybody has a link handy to some sort of guide.

The CEL is not on.

EDIT: Just to clarify the rig starts up fine but if im not giving it gas until it warms up it struggles and wants to die

Hey ive got a issue with starting and staying idling in the cold weather.

After a quick search it looks like my most likley culprit is the intake manifold gaskets?


Just looking for a little insight on the mechanical knowledge required to perform this job myself and if anybody has a link handy to some sort of guide.

The CEL is not on.

EDIT: Just to clarify the rig starts up fine but if im not giving it gas until it warms up it struggles and wants to die

This thread is a bit old , but the problem is not so here goes .:: Ok , last year I purchased a 2001 4WD Explorer Sport Utility , and the cold start throttle control worked really good , automatically revving up to around 1500 , then upon warming up, it dropped down to 1000 , and then it would drop down to around 650 and ready to boogest.
Winter came and the temp dropped down to between - 10 & - 15 Celsius and throttle control , stopped working and I had to drive it like a forklift until it warmed up , or it would stall .
The winter temp dropped down to between -30 & -40 C and my engine started good , and now the auto throttle is working again !! ( hee hee . I put a folded up moving blanket over the engine after parking , so the heat would stay in the engine longer )) anyway , now the winter temp is between 0 & + 3 and the auto throttle control is NOT working !!
I have not driven for 24 years before this , and these bottworm computers on wheels are new to me !!!
So any way after doing research and watching utube videos ,, I went out and got some MAF sensor cleaner , and some electrical contact cleaner sprays . I cleaned out the MAF, the throttle body , and the IAC and I ALSO
cleaned the electrical connecter contacts , and now ,,,,YAHOOO its working again !! I have not yet replaced my ECT or the sender yet , there seems to be a problem , but my cold start auto idle control now works again .!!!!