2001 Sport 4wd not working

[johnny5c]

I recently picked up a 2001 Sport and I'm having a hard time figuring out why the 4wd isn't working. The previous owner replaced the transfer case motor. I have no lights on the selector switch but I can hear the module click when the switch is turned. I cleaned and greased the connections on the module and also checked all the fuses. Is it possible that a bad module will still make the clicking noise? From all the posts I've read it seems like when a module is dead it won't make any noise. Thank you in advance for any help!

 

[corkey]

is the abs light on ?

 

[johnny5c]

ABS light is off, no codes ether. I thought it could be a speed sensor at first because that was the problem on my Ranger. The 4wd light next to the speedometer works but the lights on the switch itself don't come on and front wheels aren't engaging at all.

 

[johnny5c]

Checked all the relays and the switch, the indicator light behind the switch was burnt out so replaced that. The electrical side seem like everything is fine so going to assume it's something mechanical. Going to start tomorrow by checking and changing the transfer case fluid.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

when you drain the fluid, look into the fill hole. you should be able to see the shift fork. have someone up top click it in 4x4 while your looking into the hole to see if that fork moves. if it dose, you may have some stripped gears. also, if you put your foot on the brake while its in 4x4 and make the rear wheels spin, can you hear a clicking or ratcheting sound?
im just asking this, because i just went through all this with a ranger i have

 

[drdoom]

Have you checked for voltage at the brown wire? It should like .6V until you switch it, then about 5.8V when engaged. I rigged a test wire into the cab on mine the other day, while trying to diagnose a different problem. I tapped in a short pigtail at the case, with an insulated female bullet connector at the other end. Put the male end on my test wire, and a 5/16" female spade on the end in the cab. I jammed both a test lead and an LED test light in there. I grounded to an extra pigtail I added under the console. I left the pigtail at the transfer when I was finished my test, so now I can easily get a voltage check. You don't need all that, you can just probe the brown wire from underneath with your switch in auto, then 4hi.