2002 XLS No AC

[jcsaathoff]

Hi just got a phone call.. My trucks A/C stopped working. The blower motor is running but it's blowing hot and it also got a burning electrical smell?? I won't be home to look at it till 2 am so if someone can point me in the direction to start looking I would appreciate it...

 

[Jumpjets]

Turn on the AC when you get home and then open the hood. Watch and see if the compressor is spinning or not. If not, you most likely have low freon. I don't really know what to say about the burning smell. If the compressor was seized, you'd probably hear the belt screeching long before you noticed any weird smell.

 

[jcsaathoff]

Yeah I dunno, since the two (electrical smell and loss of cold air) happened simultaneously I'm thinking it might be a relay or something... I topped off the freon at the beginning of the summer, not counting it out but I didn't know if anyone else has run into this with theirs...

 

[jcsaathoff]

and if someone has run into this before, please tell me its a $5 part because I'm tired of dumping money in it. lol

 

[esclamada]

Looks like same issue as mine, burning smell, sparks and noise. I'm hoping it's only the clutch.

Anybody has quick tips if the compressor is busted or just the clutch or both?
I just ordered the clutch in Advance Auto online while it's still available in one of the stores nearby. $40 discount with "CCABIN" coupon.




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[esclamada]

AC Compressor locked up, clutch is OK. I don't even need a clutch holding tool to remove and re-install the clutch plate. Expecting a huge bill on this one.





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[esclamada]

AC Compressor locked up, clutch is OK. I don't even need a clutch holding tool to remove and re-install the clutch plate. Expecting a huge bill on this one.





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Replaced the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and condenser. Flush the hoses. Recharge the system and AC is back again. Yet this DIY still cost almost $600. Getting the cheapest chinese parts on rock auto. Hope it will last.


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[jcsaathoff]

Ok well its been a bit.... the compressor is trashed... ugh... so I got a bypass pulley today, couple questions though cause I'm thinking of my options.

1) what size socket do you use to get the studs out... its tight for room, 4mm is too small 5mm is too big.
2) I disconnected the power wire for the clutch.. its not makeing noise now and the ir gun is telling me the clutch is only getting up to 140 deg f, anyone think I'll run into trouble running it as is?
3) I know there is no listed "non a/c" belt listed for these years... has anyone come up with one?

 

[esclamada]

if the pulley is still fine then you don't need to replace it with a bypass pulley. Disconnecting the field coil alone is enough. The serpentine belt will just freewheel along the compressor pulley. As long as the clutch is not touching the pulley I won't worry about the temperature.

It's better to just let the compressor stay in the system so that your AC is not open to moisture. When the time comes to fix it only the compressor, accumulator and/or the condenser is what you have to worry to replace. Once you open it up moisture could come in the ac hoses and that could turn into acid which is hard to flush out.

Couldn't remember what size socket I used.. it was a deep metric socket



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[jcsaathoff]

Yeah that's why I asked... I was worried about letting in moisture and dirt into the system and having to repace more crap...

 

[Ansonova]

I know this is an old post but my 2003 4.0 XLS AC just gave up the ghost yesterday and seized up and luckily it just snapped the belt with no other collateral damage. I bought a 71" Dayco belt P/N 8060710 and routed it as usual skipping the AC pulley and BOOM 10 minutes later I'm up and running until I get the loot to fix it proper. Hopefully this will help the next guy.