2003 Ford Explorer Question's on fluids

[Mbrooks420]

There is no "V6" transmission. There is only the 5R55 for the 3rd Gen. V6 or V8. The stock cooler is actually equivalent in terms of physical size to an F250 cooler! Yet someone stuck it behind the AC condenser which easily gets over 120*+... (Good job ford...) I added an external cooler from a 3rd Gen Sport Trac. It provides a 20* drop which I'm sure will help greatly. (It can't hurt!)

Ford really drops the ball sometimes. It's why I'll probably only ever own a Second Gen V8 Explorer/Mounty.

 

[Drewmcg]

I understand choosing a 3 valve V8 in the fourth gens (significantly improved power and barely worse gas mileage than the 4.0 SOHC)--especially after they fixed the spark plug problem with head redesign in Nov. 2007. That engine won a Wards best award in '06 or '07.

On the gen 3s it's a closer call, IMHO. Failed (or even better, about-to-fail) 4.0 SOHCs represent an excellent buy for someone with the patience, skill, and set-up to pull and overhaul the engine/timing chains. Now that mine is timed correctly, I'm very impressed with the power, torque, smoothness of the 4.0. And I know those Cologne blocks are strong.

Of course, that does you no good if you can't get at the timing chain that needs repair. Bottom line: consider the 4.0 (lot more of them out there) if you can pull an engine or have a good, reasonably priced mechanic; stick with the 8 otherwise.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Good time to revisit this thread.

4.0L SOHC ALL Metal Timing Chain Guides Possible? | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[Mbrooks420]

Too much work for me to put into a vehicle with an anemic transmission. I typically keep my vehicles until they rust to pieces, and if I had to pull an engine the second time due to a crap design, I'd be very salty.

 

[Drewmcg]

... if I had to pull an engine the second time ....

?

 

[Mbrooks420]

To replace the cassettes again.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Hmmm after reading through some stuff on these timing issues...Does this issue happen with the 2005 Freestar 4.2? My dad has one that he bought at 68,000 and it now has around 159,000 iirc. He changes his oil every 3,000 early on with Synthetic Blend now its around 5,000 miles on Full Synthetic from either Valvoline or Mobil oil, as I stated he was a Mobil Oil Machinist for 30 years. He knows his stuff but at his age (71) on Sept 11th there is no way he can get involved with doing something like timing chain on mine or his. Granted he is in great shape and still looks like he is in his 40's but still. His more concerns me at this point with the miles and the fact we drive it everywhere when we have to go shopping for both houses since it saves on gas.

Being a Explorer forum I know it isn't the right place to ask but sounds like many of you have experience with these engines in that area that we don't.

Just being curious at this point as we have a trip coming up to south of Chicago near Joliet near our old hometown area and he is doing some fall maintenance this weekend.

Once again my many thanks to all involved who answered my previous questions. They have been a great help to me this past week as I went to pick up supplies for this new vehicle.

 

[Drewmcg]

To replace the cassettes again.

Most folks get at least 100k out of these engines (my guess if they're sloppy about oil changes), and usually over 150k miles (I got 180k) before needing to change out timing chains. So you are probably over 250k miles if you're looking at a second timing chain issue. And you only need to pull engine for the rear one, so figure more like 300k+ to have that one fail twice Some,but not most, keep these trucks that long before moving on.

 

[Drewmcg]

....Does this issue happen with the 2005 Freestar 4.2? My dad has one that he bought at 68,000 and it now has around 159,000 iirc...

Being a Explorer forum I know it isn't the right place to ask but sounds like many of you have experience with these engines in that area that we don't.....

Different engine than used in Explorer. The elevated timing chain/guide issue is unique to the 4.0 SOHC. Seems like the 4.6 V8 Explorer crowd are getting like 215k before needing to to change their timing chains, which can be replaced w/o pulling engine.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Different engine than used in Explorer. The elevated timing chain/guide issue is unique to the 4.0 SOHC. Seems like the 4.6 V8 Explorer crowd are getting like 215k before needing to to change their timing chains, which can be replaced w/o pulling engine.

Thanks, yeah completely different engine but just making sure. I had a 4.6 in my '94 T-Bird and it was a great engine other then having to have them re-do the valve guides and rebuild the transmission due to a slip bump at 87K thankfully I had the extended warranty.

I have a feeling I won't come near that kind of mileage on my Explorer not with driving as little as I do.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Another quick question, I've looked around and seen differing opinions on this online. We are going to be doing the front, rear differential fluid changes once I am able to pick up some Amsoil 80w90 synthetic from my local shop that does the work we can't. I was going to pull both covers to inspect them just to be safe since I am sure the original gear oil is in both. I've read that for the front you have to drop the entire setup in order to pull the cover then I've read you don't have to. I am confused on what the truth is here. I know the rear is easy enough to do and I've already ordered the gaskets for both differentials. Doesn't bother me if I can't pull the front cover but if I could without having to drop all that I will but if not then just using a hand pump to pull out all the old gear oil is good enough for me.

I am really trying to inspect and replace what I can on this since it will have to last me probably for the next 10 years at least. I've picked up just about everything I need to replace except spark plug wires, pcv valve, couple gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 and the Amsoil as described above.

What I've bought so far is...Plugs, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, 75w140 Valvoline Syn, 2 Quarts Valvoline Transfer case oil, 8 quarts of Valvoline Mercon V, Wix Transmission Filter and OEM Ford Transmission Gasket just in case since it was 14.99 shipped NIB, Low/High Beam Silverstar Ultras, Full Syn Valvoline, case of FL-820s for $44 shipped off of Ebay, Serpentine Belt and new Callahan Front Rotors w/ ceramic pads..I think that is all of it,lol.

Is there anything else I am missing? We plan on doing this when I get back from Illinois at the end of the month. I don't think I've missed anything...but with everything going on around here been kinda hard to remember everything I need to pick up with a full house remodel going on as well,lol.

Also new tires are going on as soon as they arrive from Cooper's Factory. Replacing some Firestone Destination LE2's. Had a set on my parents Liberty, wasn't impressed with them so got a set of the Cooper AT3's at 116.00 a tire plus 200 dollars in rebates so total cost came down to 354 installed after rebates with lifetime balance and rotate.

Once again thank you to everyone here. Your help on this thread and others has been a great help to me.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The front cover is a no go.

 

[Coolhand20th]

The front cover is a no go.

I was afraid of that. Ah well at least the fluid will get changed.

 

[TechGuru]

Another quick question, I've looked around and seen differing opinions on this online. We are going to be doing the front, rear differential fluid changes once I am able to pick up some Amsoil 80w90 synthetic from my local shop that does the work we can't. I was going to pull both covers to inspect them just to be safe since I am sure the original gear oil is in both. I've read that for the front you have to drop the entire setup in order to pull the cover then I've read you don't have to. I am confused on what the truth is here. I know the rear is easy enough to do and I've already ordered the gaskets for both differentials. Doesn't bother me if I can't pull the front cover but if I could without having to drop all that I will but if not then just using a hand pump to pull out all the old gear oil is good enough for me.

I am really trying to inspect and replace what I can on this since it will have to last me probably for the next 10 years at least. I've picked up just about everything I need to replace except spark plug wires, pcv valve, couple gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 and the Amsoil as described above.

What I've bought so far is...Plugs, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, 75w140 Valvoline Syn, 2 Quarts Valvoline Transfer case oil, 8 quarts of Valvoline Mercon V, Wix Transmission Filter and OEM Ford Transmission Gasket just in case since it was 14.99 shipped NIB, Low/High Beam Silverstar Ultras, Full Syn Valvoline, case of FL-820s for $44 shipped off of Ebay, Serpentine Belt and new Callahan Front Rotors w/ ceramic pads..I think that is all of it,lol.

Is there anything else I am missing? We plan on doing this when I get back from Illinois at the end of the month. I don't think I've missed anything...but with everything going on around here been kinda hard to remember everything I need to pick up with a full house remodel going on as well,lol.

Also new tires are going on as soon as they arrive from Cooper's Factory. Replacing some Firestone Destination LE2's. Had a set on my parents Liberty, wasn't impressed with them so got a set of the Cooper AT3's at 116.00 a tire plus 200 dollars in rebates so total cost came down to 354 installed after rebates with lifetime balance and rotate.

Once again thank you to everyone here. Your help on this thread and others has been a great help to me.

*sigh* Where do I even start...

Take the stupid rip off SIlverStar's back and get XtraVision (they are the same filament as the SilverStar, they just don't have a light blocking coating on the glass) Don't buy any bulb with any kind of coating on the glass as it just blocks light for no reason. (Except yellow for fog lights).

Take the ****ty ceramic pads back and get semi-metallic, preferably Wagner SevereDuty. While at it I'd get the black painted Wagner rotors. Due to the weight of these vehicles semi-metallic is the only safe option IMO.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/Wagner/SevereDutyBro_pages.pdf

Organic Brake Pads

Organic brake pads (also known as NAO, or “non-asbestos organic”) were developed as an alternative to asbestos pads, composed of various fibers mixed with binding resins to hold them together. Some common materials used in organic brake pads include glass, fiber, rubber, carbon and Kevlar. The materials and tools used to manufacture organic brake pads are still the least expensive today, which is why the majority (roughly 70%) of new cars sold in the US still come with them from the factory.

Pros:
• Soft, quiet, easy on brake rotors
• Don’t require much heat to generate good friction
• Produce less dust than metallic pads
• Low manufacturing cost
• Suitable for normal driving/commuting across many environments
• Perfect for every day vehicles and drivers

Cons:
• Only operate well within a relatively limited temperature range
• Wear out quickly compared to other types of brake pads
• High compressibility – can cause “mushy” brake pedal feel
• Will quickly lose their coefficient of friction when overheated
• Not at all suitable for performance driving

Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

As the name implies, semi-metallic pads contain anywhere from 30-65% metal by weight, typically consisting of steel, iron, copper, etc. combined with friction modifiers and fillers, as well as a graphite lubricant. Semi-metallic brake pads are arguably the most versatile style available, with the slight compromise being more noise and dust. They are also longer lasting and more durable, and their metallic composition can help draw heat away from the rotor and aid in more efficient brake cooling.

Pros:
• Dramatically increased braking performance over organic pads
• Have a much higher thermal threshold due to metallic content
• Still provide good cold bite
• Have a much wider operating range (temperature)
• Low compressibility – will provide a firmer brake pedal feel
• Much more resistant to brake fade than organic pads
• Numerous compounds available – suitable for anything from daily street driving to extreme track use

Cons:
• Tend to be noisier than organic or ceramic pads
• Produce more brake dust
• More abrasive than other types of pads – will wear brake rotors more quickly
• More expensive than organic pads (but generally cheaper than ceramic)
• Require careful and proper bedding-in for best performance

Ceramic Brake Pads

The comparative new kid on the block is the ceramic brake pad. Ceramic pads are composed of a dense ceramic material (like pottery fired in a kiln) with embedded copper fibers. In use since the 1980s, ceramic pads were developed as an alternative replacement for organic and semi-metallic brake pads because at the time these types produced too much noise and dust. Ceramic pads are also generally easier on rotors than semi-metallic pads.

Pros:
• Quieter than semi-metallic pads – emit noises that are above the range of human hearing
• Produce finer, lighter-colored brake dust which does not stick to wheels
• Longer lifespan than organic or semi-metallic
• Stable under a wide range of temperatures for consistent performance

Cons:
• Typically the most-expensive type of brake pad
• Do not produce as much cold bite as semi-metallic pads – may not be ideal in extremely cold climates
• Do not absorb heat as well as semi-metallic pads which can increase brake system temperatures
• Good all-around braking characteristics but were never designed as heavy duty/racing brake pads

Hope the plugs and filters are all Motorcraft...

Belt get Continental Elite (ex GoodYear Gatorback).

Don't forget the Motorcraft XL3 additive in the rear differential if you have a LSD.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Another question...I have looked and looked and looked but can't find the answer to this. I know my stock wheels are 16x7 with a +44mm offset. What I need to know is what is the stock backspacing? Been looking at several different sets of wheels for next spring and I want to stick as close as possible to the stock backspacing and offset. I won't be going bigger on tires or a lift, just want to change up the look of the wheels is all. I know the wheels I am looking at all have one of the following for offset...+38mm, +40mm, +42mm or said +44mm. Thanks

 

[TechGuru]

See if this helps: http://www.rockauto.com/genImages/wheelAttributes.html

If buying new wheels why not upgrade to 17" wheels like the EddieBauer and Limited's come with? (other than tires costing more)

 

[Coolhand20th]

I just bought my new tires and because since I am physically disabled and living on disability I can't afford to do that. Just to get these I am saving up till March or so to buy a set of wheels I went bigger with my '99 Grand Cherokee and a 1.5" lift and yeah it looked nice but at this point I just want some nice wheels for it that stick with the stock backspacing and offset.

It's that Oxford White and beside the black trim all the way around there isn't any other black so a nice black wheel with a double stripe down the sides with in channel vent visors should make it look a lot better.

 

[TechGuru]

I just bought my new tires and because since I am physically disabled and living on disability I can't afford to do that. Just to get these I am saving up till March or so to buy a set of wheels I went bigger with my '99 Grand Cherokee and a 1.5" lift and yeah it looked nice but at this point I just want some nice wheels for it that stick with the stock backspacing and offset.

It's that Oxford White and beside the black trim all the way around there isn't any other black so a nice black wheel with a double stripe down the sides with in channel vent visors should make it look a lot better.

I'd compare the costs of new wheels vs having your existing ones powder coated black (unless you're wanting a extra set of wheels to put snow tires on).