2005 Eddie Bauer all of a sudden fishtailing in snow after seeing a mechanic

[jerzzzeegirl]

Hi! I need some advice before I head back to the mechanic. I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer edition that had the front driver side coil replaced and the rear driver side bearings replaced this afternoon. It drove fine afterwards until the snow hit. Now I'm fishtailing all over the road when I hit 30mph. Usually my truck is amazing in the snow, I can plow through anything. Tonight, three inches compacted down had me white knuckling it all the way home. I had Dodge Neons passing me -- this is not good. lol I pulled off the highway and found a shopping center where the snow hadn't been touched and I took the speed up to 40 and it was fine. No fishtailing. Back on the road on compacted snow I'm fishtailing. I'm hoping this sounds familiar to someone so I can make sure that the problem gets fixed tomorrow. I live in snow country, I need my truck back to normal handling. Thanks in advance for any help/insight you can give me.

Edited to add that I had a new e-brake done too.

 

[Exproblems]

Hi! I need some advice before I head back to the mechanic. I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer edition that had the front driver side coil replaced and the rear driver side bearings replaced this afternoon. It drove fine afterwards until the snow hit. Now I'm fishtailing all over the road when I hit 30mph. Usually my truck is amazing in the snow, I can plow through anything. Tonight, three inches compacted down had me white knuckling it all the way home. I had Dodge Neons passing me -- this is not good. lol I pulled off the highway and found a shopping center where the snow hadn't been touched and I took the speed up to 40 and it was fine. No fishtailing. Back on the road on compacted snow I'm fishtailing. I'm hoping this sounds familiar to someone so I can make sure that the problem gets fixed tomorrow. I live in snow country, I need my truck back to normal handling. Thanks in advance for any help/insight you can give me.

Edited to add that I had a new e-brake done too.

After you drive the vehicle for a mile or two using the brakes to slow down or stop along the way, pull over some where safe and get out and see if the rear wheels (check both-rims) are getting hot to the touch. Do not touch the rims with your bare hand, you can get burnt, but keep them an inch or two away and feel for heat emanating from them and toss some snow on the rims and see if they "sizzle" for the snow hitting them. Don't throw the snow on the brake rotor behind the wheels, they are suppose to get hot when braking, just the rims, they are not suppose to get hot. Hot wheels or rims usually means a brake issue and you just had new E-brakes installed. I suspect one your new "E-brakes" which are housed on the center, inner side of the rear rotors may have been over adjusted to where they are rubbing against the rear rotor and are not allowing the rear wheel to spin freely. It is "pulling or locking up" the rotor on one side. The Coil isn't the problem and the rear bearing could have been over tightened, but they are torque specific and the mechanic should have known the correct nut torque for your bearing. E-brakes are tougher to adjust to perfection. I would start there. When you fish tale again on compacted snow, take a mental note of the direction the front end and rear end of the vehicle point during the slide or fish tale. Also, while driving on snow, put the vehicle in 4x4 high mode and see if everything works as it should.

 

[intelisevil]

I also live in snow country, although in the Pacific North West. I work at a local ski resort on my "days off" from my year round job that pays the bills. I get lots of experience driving in a variety of snow and ice conditions on a 55 MPH highway and fun, twisty mountain roads.

In fresh, loose snow like you described in the parking lot I get excellent traction even without my studded tires. In compacted snow like you described on the road you're basically driving on ice, nothing short of studs or chains will give you traction in those conditions.

I don't see that you are describing a problem with your vehicle, just varying road conditions. You didn't tell us the what type of tires you have and their condition.

Just slow down and don't overdrive for the conditions. Our 4WD/AWD vehicles don't make us bullet-proof in all road conditions, they mainly just help us get moving. I like to use my O/D off button to help slow down prior to touching my brake pedal, the engine/transmission braking seems to be more controlled. If you have a brake pad hanging up on the slider pins, your braking might not be as balanced as it should be and you WILL notice this in slippery road conditions.

Good Luck,
Dan

 

[Donystoy]

If it was my vehicle I would never replace a coil (assuming you mean the coil spring) on one side without doing the other side as well. They settle over time and one new spring on side could through the stability out of whack. Not saying that is your problem but something to consider.

 

[Mrooney322]

it could be unrelated but i know that my 4wd doesnt work in auto, abs sensor problems, maybe try going in 4hi and see how it feels, obviously dont go over 40 but if its better your 4wd could not be engaging,

just some food for thought

 

[Exproblems]

but i know that my 4wd doesnt work in auto, abs sensor problems,

I have a similar issue going on with either an ABS or wheel speed sensor unless they are one in the same. Every now and then when I hit a bump in the road going 55mph or higher on the Thruway, the ABS dash warning sensor lights up, followed by an Advance Trac message warning, followed by the 4x4 High light blinking on and off. After I park and shut the vehicle off for a few moments and re-start it, the ABS warning goes away. Not sure what is going on there, possibly a loose connection since the "bump" in the road seems to set it off at high speeds. I do hear a strange "squeaky, rubbery,rotational" noise coming from what sounds like the driver side rear wheel area. We've had snow on the roads for a month and a half straight and it's been too damn cold to get under the truck. It's been a rough winter on the Explorer and on me!

 

[Exproblems]

If it was my vehicle I would never replace a coil (assuming you mean the coil spring) on one side without doing the other side as well. They settle over time and one new spring on side could through the stability out of whack. Not saying that is your problem but something to consider.

I was thinking "coil pack", but I agree, changing just one "coil spring" is not a good idea.

 

[Mr. Truckles]

Important thing to check:

In order to replace the rear wheel bearing the mechanic would have needed to remove the rear knuckle by separating the upper ball joint and the toe link. Doing this normally damages them in some way and they could be loose if they weren't replaced.

Jack up the rear and shake the wheels in every direction. If there is movement then you more than likely found the problem.

 

[Donystoy]

Important thing to check:

In order to replace the rear wheel bearing the mechanic would have needed to remove the rear knuckle by separating the upper ball joint and the toe link. Doing this normally damages them in some way and they could be loose if they weren't replaced.

Jack up the rear and shake the wheels in every direction. If there is movement then you more than likely found the problem.

This could very well be the problem. Should go back to the folks who did the work and have them address the issue. They have done something that has effected the rear alignment.

 

[Outtahere]

I had a similar issue where mine got to the point that it was twitchy on snow packed roads. It felt like the backend wanted to walk out on it. I called a guy I trust at a Ford dealership and he told me to get it aligned. I did and it cured the twitch. Your problem may be different but that was all that was wrong with mine.